uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

My car was overheating yesterday and the temp gauge was going to the red then back down depending on speed. Faster i got the lower the temp went.

I checked the rad filler and the water was low, so i topped it up to the top with coolent with the engine off. Then started the car and topped up agian with the whole 1lt coolent. After this it still wasn't full and had another 1/2 lt of water.

I then let the engine run for a few moments untill the bubbles had stoppd and replaced the cap. All seems fine and the temp gauge hasn't moved all day today and lastnight.

Only prob is today when i start from cold i can hear water swooshing (dashbord area) when i drive off.

Think my missis 106 does this since topping the rad up too lol.

Any ideas?

riiidaa

iTrader: (2)

Have you been topping up your rad by pouring water down your heater vents?

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

Yes that's where i may have gone wrong lol.

This never happend untill the rad was topped up.

Does it sound like air pockets?

10bats

air lock

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

Did you bleed the system with the heater on hot and the fans on?

chopperman

I sometime hear like a wter filling up sound when i put the heater on but i have no cooling problem and coolent is always up to level and i have never needed to top up. I put the sound down to water being directed to the matrix when i put the heater on.
Are your cars carpets wet? This can be a sign of a leaking heater matrix.

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

I havent bleed the system. I just topped it up and left the cap off with the engine running.

Heaters would have been on cold.

The heaters seem to take a good 15min before they get hot too. Been like this since i got it.

jimbob9875

iTrader: (1)

Hi bud

Are you topping up the radiator(cap o0n top of radiator) or the expansion tank Cap on drivers side of inlet manifold -
if the first you also need to top up the expansion tank to half way ..also your heater control should be all the way on hot whilst topping system up.

a cooling system should not need topping up unless you have a leak so get it checked before you cause damage -
the temp gauge going up and down depending on speed means it could be a couple of tyhiongs

1, blocked rad
2, thermostat
3, water pump vanes broken
4
most likely you have a leak !!!

as for the water noise on start up this is normal when you start car with the heat control on hot as the water is then pumped round the heater matrix which is in the car.


hope this gives you a start

hth
jamie

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

I don't think they are but the windows always mist up.

I put that down to the leaking lights that i have recently fixed tho.....

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help bud.

I couldn't see a cap on the rad and used the one near the inlet to top up right too the top.

I think the water is escaping from the cap as i could see steam escaping when it was hot. Think the seal has gone on the cap!

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

How would i remove the air lock as the temp is now fine but the water sound is there?

10bats

like that

chopperman

You said you needed to top up and it took 1.5 liters of fluid to bring it up to level. Over what period of time have you lost this amount of fluid, when was the last time it was checked?
If the car is misting up a lot this could also point to a leaking matrix but 1.5 liters is a lot over a short time so you should see wet patches. If it hasn't been checked for some time it may be quite a small leak.
Try leaving the heater off for a few days and see if you lose fluid. If it stays at level put the heater on and see if the level drops.
You also say it takes 15 mins for your heater to work. I'm not sure if your heater is different to my my07 but my heater is pushing out warm air within a few mins.
My money is on the heater being the problem but it could be anything really.
Good luck.

Myles

iTrader: (40)

I'd be very concerned that my car has overheated and I have driven the car when it is overheating.
Check around your rad for signs of dry coolant, especially round the plastic ends. Please dont drive it until you have bled the system properly or you might damage the HGs, if you haven't already.

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

Well tbh i never checked the water level and i've had it over 3 months and i doubt the guy before me checked.

I've just let it run for a few mins with the cap off and the heaters on hot/full. Car got warm inside and it's been sat 2 hours.

None of the carpets are wet underneith and there are no patches/leaks where it's parked all day?

What side is the heater matrix on?

Should the water in the expansion tank swirl/bubble with the engine on?

jimbob9875

iTrader: (1)

ok bud

cooling sytems are presurised to increase the boiling point of the liquid!! this is controled by the cap
if youve got steam coming fron your cap when you engine is hot your cap maybe faulty so new one would be required --

if you've got a wrx i would get a sti pressure cap as it hold more pressure -
iirc all turbo sunaru's have a pressure cap on rad to so i would get this changed also .

agian if there is too much pressure in your cooling system that can point to other issues like

1 Radiator or something else blocked
2, poss headgasket failure .

i would recomend get it checked out as soon as possible ..


the subaru cooling system should be self bleeding....

thats what the pipe top of rad to expansion tank is there for --

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

Yeah i have just bleed it with the heaters on hot/full. But how long does this take?

The car temp hasn't even gone over half way since putting coolent it, it sits solid below 1/2 way.

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

I can't see anything on the rad, where is the cap?

My missis 106 does this since topping the rad up. Mabye that needs bleeding properly too!

Myles

iTrader: (40)

That's good that the temp isn't going up now, but have you driven it on boost? The water noise is an airlock. Makes you want to have a slash, doesn't it?! I'm not sure about the way you bled the system but I have heard that filling up from the turbo water pipe is the best way to ensure an airlock free system.

jimbob9875

iTrader: (1)

hi

you cant actually tell when the system is bleed ---
i usually top rad to top until no bubbles put cap back on and then fill expansion tank half way, cap back on, job done then it should bleed itself---

as for the 106 there is a pipe at the back of the engine that goes to the bulk head wich has a plastic screww in it --
find this
then turn heater conttrol in car all the way to highest temp (no need to have car running) fill expansion tank to top then remove screw -- water should come out of hole -- keep eye on expansion tank when the level gets to the maxx mark put the screw back in - put the cap back on and then run engine until you hear coolingf fan cut in prob about 15mins

hope this helps -

jamie

jimbob9875

iTrader: (1)

still abit woried you've no cap on rad ---
ask about but i'm sure all turbo subaru;s have 2x caps -- i could be wrong though it has been known-- just don;t tell the missus :-)

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

That sound good then.

I have driven it on boost yeah. As soon as i put coolent in i took it for a drive and the temp was good. Once warmed up and the temp was good i gave it death for 15min.

Seemed to go better tbh. Don't know if thats in my head tho

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replys/help bud.

I can see a cap tho on the rad

I'm gonna get a sti cap for the expansion tank as it must be leaking. Hence the slight steam coming through it!!

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

Your heater matrix is behind the glovebox, The same area as you will have heard the waterfall noise, For future reference always have the heaters on hot when topping or re-filling the coolant to allow the matrix to fill up too,

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.

Can't hear the swoosh now so seems to have been flushed!!

nizmo80

iTrader: (2)

I am just dealing with a hg failure myself mate after my impreza is overheating.

when my car started to overheat I pulled out the radiator and changed the thermostat
put everthing back together and filled up the coolant through the turbo hose that attaches to the back of the header tank then put it back on and filled the rest through the header tank.

my car was fine for two days and was not overheating then after that i noticed my
car was overheating again and the coolant level was dropping and it was the hg that had started to go.

have you taken you're car out and seen if it overheats when you are boosting the turbo.
if it does overheat when boosting it could be a hg failure.
it pushes the pressure from the cylinder into
the water jacket causing airlock and overheating.

take you're car out and put the foot down so the boost pressure goes up and see if you're car overheats.
with my car I can still drive without overheating as long as I dont boost
my car is getting fixed this week thank god

uk300_kev

iTrader: (2)

Perfectly fine on boost. Gave it death last night for 15min and the temp never moved.

Even when i overheated yesterday the faster i got the lower the temp went. Due to the air hitting the rad i expect.

nizmo80

iTrader: (2)

thats good news it's not overheating on boost mate

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

Dont be worried about not having a rad cap. That i know of. Its only 2003 models on that have 2 caps. Certainly my classic didnt have one and nor does my current 2002 car. I worked on a 2004 car last weekend (timing belt) and that did have 2 caps

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

Yep version 8(blob)onwards have a rad cap and expansion cap, bugs dont