Im stuck. I drove to asda to do my wkly shop. Scooby 2000 uk no mods.drove here fine. But when i came out there was nothing. The car went to start an just died. Theres plenty of fuel but doestnt want to fire up? Any ideas?

Many thanks carl

 

cud be numerous thing. more info needed, battery ok, do u have a spark, coil pack, cam crank sensors, does it turn over at all now, do u get a click, starter motor stuck etc

 

Sorry. Battery is fine. Clicks after imoboliser is switched. I dnt think there is spark as car turns over as to start but no fire up. Just keeps turning pretty sure the starter motor is working.

 

check for spark on plugs, make sure immobiliser is working correctly, any cel lights on?

 

can you hear to petrol pump fire up when you turn ignition on ?

 

I cant check for spark at the moment as im stuck with no tools.
I dnt think i can here the fuel pump kick in.
all lights are ok on dash the normal engine checks an battery lights b4 turn over. Car goes to fire but then seams dry/ no spark just gona have to wait on the recovery truck i guess

Thanks for eveyones imput

 

turn ignition on listern for a buzz/hum from the boot lasts about 2 seconds. if nothing then it could be pump relay or i had a problem like this once duing freezing weather and under the rear seat is the pump connectors cables and a small amount of warter/condensation had got to 1 of the connectors and fryed it. you couldn't tell just having a quick look though i unplugged it while testing relay and noticed it then. worth a look only takes 2 mins

 

Ok thanks. There is no buzz checked connectors an they look fine. Where would i find the fuel pump relay?
Thanks carl

 

under your dash to the right, if i remember it was a right pig to get to. you need to google it! once you have found it reach up and turn ignition on feel for it clicking over, if nothing then thats it but it may still click over and be naff. hope this helps a bit but i'm sure there are plenty of other things that could be causeing it not to start hope you get to the bottom of it

 

could it be Radio Lock Out:
- All alarm systems manufactured for use in the UK in ’99 were required to operate on the frequency of 433MHz. Subsequently, in late 2000, the government allowed the introduction of the “Tetra” radio network for telecommunications companies, the military, police, fire and ambulance services etc, which was allocated the 420-430MHz bandwidths.

Although not exactly the same frequency, these “Tetra” transmitters are licensed and so are allowed to operate at around 20,000 watts, compared with the alarm systems 0.5 watt radio key (necessary so that your radio keys remain exempt from annual licensing fees!)

As a result, when you are near a transmitting “Tetra” mast you can get a degree of “bleed over” as their signal is so much stronger and this can swamp the transmission from the radio key.

This problem is not exclusive to this system and can occur on any number of manufacturers systems produced prior to 2001.

The receiver boards were redesigned to focus more accurately on the 433.92HHz frequency as soon as this problem became evident, however, systems manufactured before 2001, with the older receiver boards that may have experienced this problem, are not faulty and were not considered eligible for warranty.
However, as a goodwill measure, customers who suffered from “exceptional” radio lock-out (ie lived or worked below a mast) were offered an upgraded receiver board whilst the vehicle was still within the warranty period.

This goodwill period was extended for a further 12 months after the 3 year warranty period expired, but ended in December 2004.
Later ECUs are available from Subaru (part number SACC 3465) but these are now chargeable

Avoidance:
There are a few points that should be remembered:

- All vehicles that passed through the import centre from January 2001 are equipped with the latest receiver boards that are "Tetra Resistant" and so should not experience this problem.

- A keypad is fitted to ALL models with the UK standard fit alarm system (from 99 MY) as an emergency override, in the event of loss, damage, flat radio key battery etc. (The keypad also allows the driver to access a number of features and is a complete programming tool for the dealers) and so pushing/recovery of vehicle’s should not be necessary provided you know your override PIN and ow to operate the keypad.

- The keypad can NOT be affected by "Radio Lock-Out", as it is hard wired into the system and does not rely on a radio transmission.

 

Could be immobiliser to fuel pump? I had the same thing once on one of my other scoobs. A very nice man come out in a yellow van and by passed it

 

cheers my yellow van man had no idea???

ok thanks i will have a look there defiantly is no buzz from the fuel pump nor any clicking from relays i will google it an see what i can find,,,,
#thankyou for your help thinking i may just buy a new car lol

 

You actually READ the post from JDM Stig?

 

[QUOTE=alcazar;10432457]You actually READ the post from JDM Stig?[

yeah i did thought i had written back, my bad

i have a 96 UK 2000 that has no alarm only a imobiliser
i have the car home now still no buzz from the fuel pump an have no clue which relay is the pump relay,
have googled the location to find theres only 2 main realy an fuel pump under the dash on the drivers side,
neither of these click when ignition is swiched on

thanks carl

 

[QUOTE=JDM_Stig;10432360]could it be Radio Lock Out:
- All alarm systems manufactured for use in the UK in ’99 were required to operate on the frequency of 433MHz. Subsequently, in late 2000, the government allowed the introduction of the “Tetra” radio network for telecommunications companies, the military, police, fire and ambulance services etc, which was allocated the 420-430MHz bandwidths.

thanks for the imput but i have a 96 uk non import, with only a pin imobileliser
so this wouldnt affect my car or am i bein

 

No it shouldn't, but my money would still be on the immobiliser as the root of your problems.

 

ok thanks for you imput
will have to get sumone to take a look at it

 

imobilizer or pump my pump died 2 years ago whilst in a tesco car park, had a walbro in garage so changed it in car park

try diconnecting battery for 10 mins and ry again, just incase.

 

Its more than likely an immobiliser issue, but try tapping the relay just after you turn the ignition on just in case the connections are stuck inside.

 

Have you checked the fuse. They are 15 amp and thats marginal, if its failed replace with a 20 Amp. Its been a fairly common problem for the fuel pump fuse to blow.

cheers

bob

 

I have checked through all the fuses but all seam ok. But i didnt see a lable for the fuel pump. Would that be under the dash or under the bonet?

Cheers carl