swallington

Hi everyone, I purchased my first Subaru yesterday for my fiance but it has a couple of faults I am hoping someone can help me with.

It is a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX Sports Wagon, 2.0ltr. The car is completely standard and appeared to be in generally good condition for its age and mileage (120k).

My first problem is fairly small. The dashboard clock doesn't work and both electric mirrors do not work. I guessed this may be a fuse but I checked under the bonnet and couldn't find any blown fuses. There didn't appear to be that many fuses present, so I am wondering if there is a second fuse box somewhere? I would also like to know if either of these are common faults that have known fixes I could try?

My second problem is a little more serious. After having done approx 150 miles in the car, mostly motorway driving, I pulled of the motorway and did a fairly spirited drive off at a round about. At approx 5000 rpm in 2nd gear the engine management light came on. This was at the A34 off the M3 and I have since driven to Newport in South Wales so probably another 80 miles and the car is driving as it was before, I cannot detect any new faults or issues. The one thing I know is wrong is the front pads and disks are right on the low limit and will be getting replaced tomorrow (looking at EBC redstuff or yellowstuff with some EBC disks too?); could this cause the EML to come on or is that too wishful thinking? I have an ODBII tool but its back home so cant hook it up till the weekend. Just looking for some top tips on what I should look at first.

The final issue I have with the car is under medium acceleration between 3000 and 3800 rpm I can feel a slight stutter, it doesn't accelerate as smoothly as the rest of the rev range. Having had a number of turbo cars before I know this sort of thing can be a hard one to track down. Is there any sort of FAQ on this site I can have a read of? I guess this could also be linked to the EML coming on, but the stutter was there prior to the light coming on.

Apologies for just joining and chucking in a load of questions! I hope I'll learn and be able to contribute back as time goes by as I already am looking for a Scooby for myself :-) This is my first decent car after a string of Pulsar GTiR's; they were forever breaking down and i'm hoping the Scooby is more reliable than they were!

If you need any more details please let me know.

Thanks in advance.

d4vidh

Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks. Do you have a good steady idle?

swallington

Idle is steady, about 1800 RPM when cold, down to about 700RPM when warmed up.

I will check the hoses in the morning, thanks.

SHUGSTERC

fuse box is to the right of where your right foot is when u sittin in car..a wee black box

swallington

Cheers I'll check that in the morning too.

swaynie

iTrader: (6)

try giving the maf sensor a good clean with some carb cleaner and if your looking for a pads a disc combo go here https://www.scoobynet.com/trader-ann...-pad-sale.html

and any pics

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

EML could be the Cam sensor as these are renownd for playing up on the bugeye impreza especially when you give it some into the high RPM range, Usually no problem just delete the code (P0340)

Mirrors could be a fuse, Little compartment near your right Knee take it out and the fuses are behind it, Theres a guide to the fuses on the back of the compartment
The clocks can give up anyway so it might no be related, If your good with a soldering iron take them out and when its up side down on the far left or right(cant remember) you will see what looks like a lump of solder, check it for cracks as overtime they tend to go for some reason, just pu a bit more solder on it to repair the contact, Or alternativly get a 2nd hand one for £20.

Hesitation could be anything but i`d check all the hoses give the maf a clean

martome123

hello mate.... hhmmm sounds like a dajavooo.... I take it that the car is a bug eye( round lights)...
OK ..the clock will be a fault inside the clock its self ( presuming its not on the same fuse as the mirror tfault ) which you will find under the coin holder drop down flap( by drivers right knee ). Infact its a key pad imobolizer , lift flap out then up to remove and you will find more fuses..... ok back to clock , Pop out clock with housing ( verry tight clips ) just be brave and carefull as dash is easely marked.... inside the clock there will be a dry joint on a resistor ( full info is on the site ) bit daunting but dooable...
EML light not related to brakes at all but i recon check the induction hose to turbo connection as the rubber end of plastic induction tube perishes ( mine did ) feel under for splits .... perhaps your hasty 2 nd gear launch ( good though i must confess ) made induction hose split a bit more thus leading to weak mixture at that point putting the light on...i think it will stay on untill you get your code reader and reset it....but thats just a educated guess..... hope this helps.good luck

Iain250

iTrader: (1)

alternatively thump the dash board above the clock - honestly try it - i was advised to try it for my classic and its worked perfectly ever since.

Iain.

swallington

Hi, thanks for all the suggestions. Good news is I started the car this morning and EML had gone off. I took it into a friends garage and they plugged it into a computer and it said crank position sensor (I forget the error code but can get this if anyone interested?). Apparently this is common and can also be intermittent. I am going to get a price tomorrow for a new one. I have been told to get a genuine part as none genuine sensors can be unreliable. Gave the car a good hard drive for about 40 miles and the light hasnt come back on (but I couldn't stop grinning every time I floor it and hear the engine go!)

Run out of time today to check the fuse box, but I'll check tomorrow and see if any are blown.

I will check out the solder joint and see if I can repair the clock otherwise I will replace. Tried thumping the dash board but clock is still off :-)

I also gave the car a full service and had the front disks and front and rear pads changed and its driving perfectly now.

Thanks for all the top tips.

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

I wouldnt bother with s nre sensor. It probably wont cure the eml. Its very common and is a glitch in the ecu. Youd be better off buying a cheap code reader so you can clear it yourself in future.

swallington

I have one of these back home (work away during week) which I got off eBay for another car:

OBD2 Diagnostic Code Reader Scanner Bluetooth Device (#220817381140)

Is there an ODB port on my car, if there is where is it? I'll try plugging it in at the weekend and see what can be done.

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

Yep bellow the drivers side dash

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

Below lol cant edit on mobile

swallington

The clock was sorted by re-soldering a small bit back on, not sure what you call it but it was a small rectangle shaped bit of metal and one end of the solder had disappeared. Re-soldered and its as good as new!

Both mirrors are now working, just had to replace the 20A fuse that was found exactly where you said it would be.

I have used an OBDII reader to clear my ECU EML and its going into the garage on Monday to get sorted. Came up with Crank Position Sensor or Camshaft Sensor error code. Been told this is common but minor so thats good news.

While its in the garage I am also getting the cam belt sorted as the previous owners story doesn't check out and the current belt is a few months off its 5 year anniversary.

Thanks everyone, appreciate all your advice.