help please urgent
#1
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help please urgent
hi,im in the middle of removeing my old double din stereo out of my 98 sti type r,im replaceing with a kenwood kvt522 dvd single din,......
wiring.......coming from the car the iso has seperate yellow(battery)
and seperate red(acc ignition).
from my headunit these two wires are connected together.
do i have to connect these seperately to the iso in car?or both from stereo into one of the pins on iso rather than two seperate pins?(as there is only one red wire to connect with a small spade connector(iso pin connection),if so do i connect to the yellow or red??
also the old headunit had two earth leads fixed with 2 screws(seperate) under the gearstick surround,i only have one from the new headunit,does this have to be connected to the car iso,or earthed to the gearstick plate?(as this has the small spade connector on as if it should be pluged into an iso pin?
not very good at electrics so sorry if i sound a little retarted.
wiring.......coming from the car the iso has seperate yellow(battery)
and seperate red(acc ignition).
from my headunit these two wires are connected together.
do i have to connect these seperately to the iso in car?or both from stereo into one of the pins on iso rather than two seperate pins?(as there is only one red wire to connect with a small spade connector(iso pin connection),if so do i connect to the yellow or red??
also the old headunit had two earth leads fixed with 2 screws(seperate) under the gearstick surround,i only have one from the new headunit,does this have to be connected to the car iso,or earthed to the gearstick plate?(as this has the small spade connector on as if it should be pluged into an iso pin?
not very good at electrics so sorry if i sound a little retarted.
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I've got the same headunit.
Despite this, and having wired mine in myself several times I cant understand what your saying.
The loom from the stereo has a red and yellow cable. 1 is for a permanent live, 1 for ignition live. If you wire them both together then the stereo will either stay on all the time or shut off and not remember its settings every time. You need to wire them individually to get it to operate correctly but may have to swap them over once tested (thats why they have bullet connectors on the iso loom).
The unit is earthed via the loom, you dont need any other earth but you can splice the other earth into the loom or earth it on the chassis like the old one. Main problem on a faclift is the lack of room for all the wires on a 522. make sure you pull the USB and aux leads into the glovebox before you fit the unit. You can also add a rear view camera for a tenner off ebay
Despite this, and having wired mine in myself several times I cant understand what your saying.
The loom from the stereo has a red and yellow cable. 1 is for a permanent live, 1 for ignition live. If you wire them both together then the stereo will either stay on all the time or shut off and not remember its settings every time. You need to wire them individually to get it to operate correctly but may have to swap them over once tested (thats why they have bullet connectors on the iso loom).
The unit is earthed via the loom, you dont need any other earth but you can splice the other earth into the loom or earth it on the chassis like the old one. Main problem on a faclift is the lack of room for all the wires on a 522. make sure you pull the USB and aux leads into the glovebox before you fit the unit. You can also add a rear view camera for a tenner off ebay
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I've got the same headunit.
Despite this, and having wired mine in myself several times I cant understand what your saying.
The loom from the stereo has a red and yellow cable. 1 is for a permanent live, 1 for ignition live. If you wire them both together then the stereo will either stay on all the time or shut off and not remember its settings every time. You need to wire them individually to get it to operate correctly but may have to swap them over once tested (thats why they have bullet connectors on the iso loom).
The unit is earthed via the loom, you dont need any other earth but you can splice the other earth into the loom or earth it on the chassis like the old one. Main problem on a faclift is the lack of room for all the wires on a 522. make sure you pull the USB and aux leads into the glovebox before you fit the unit. You can also add a rear view camera for a tenner off ebay
Despite this, and having wired mine in myself several times I cant understand what your saying.
The loom from the stereo has a red and yellow cable. 1 is for a permanent live, 1 for ignition live. If you wire them both together then the stereo will either stay on all the time or shut off and not remember its settings every time. You need to wire them individually to get it to operate correctly but may have to swap them over once tested (thats why they have bullet connectors on the iso loom).
The unit is earthed via the loom, you dont need any other earth but you can splice the other earth into the loom or earth it on the chassis like the old one. Main problem on a faclift is the lack of room for all the wires on a 522. make sure you pull the USB and aux leads into the glovebox before you fit the unit. You can also add a rear view camera for a tenner off ebay
hmm,the red wire has a spade connector ready to plug into iso pin,the yellow has a bullet connector which obviously wont plug into iso pin,so do i have to cut the yellow wire from the car iso,to be able to connect to stereo yellow?im assuming the reason for all the wires apart from the yellow have small spade connectors to plug them straight into the cars iso?
yellow on stereo has bullet!
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if its a spade connector then its been modified by the previous owner. Sorting this out is basic wiring chap, I get the feeling a pack of fuses (or worse) might be needed here! If you're struggling at this point then you're in for a treat when it comes to the set-up and other wiring.
I dont understand what you mean by "plugging in the iso pin", that makes no sense. Post up a pic.
I dont understand what you mean by "plugging in the iso pin", that makes no sense. Post up a pic.
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if its a spade connector then its been modified by the previous owner. Sorting this out is basic wiring chap, I get the feeling a pack of fuses (or worse) might be needed here! If you're struggling at this point then you're in for a treat when it comes to the set-up and other wiring.
I dont understand what you mean by "plugging in the iso pin", that makes no sense. Post up a pic.
I dont understand what you mean by "plugging in the iso pin", that makes no sense. Post up a pic.
all the speaker wires also have small spade connectors on.all needs changing!
unless im really missing something here lol.
thanks for your help.
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its all wired but unit seems faulty,everything works but the screen sliding in and out of head unit stutters and is slow,motor sounds very tired,i have to repeatedly press the open/close button to get it to work and it seeems it hasnt got enough power to do what it says on the tin!
fookin thing!
fookin thing!
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sounds like the motor mechanism or motor itself chap. There are 2 nylon guides down the sides which can get clogged. Get some wd40 and with the screen fully out spray a little down each side.
Failing that, you've bought a duffer chap.
Failing that, you've bought a duffer chap.
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very annoying as i got it for a good price and its a nice head unit!
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you could be right about the runners,its not stuttering anymore and sounds loads better,its just not coming back flush,it seems to want to finish about half inch from the end,im convinced its a bit of crap somewhere,it seems to get better the more it gets used,i know its not been used for 4 weeks,does this sound right?
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