JPC500

hi guys
i recently posted a thread about potentially using radweld for my steaming radiator.
I had a small amount of steam coming out of my headlights and bonnet scoop and had fluid spray over my hoses etc under the bonnet. ive now just took it out and come back and put it on my ramps and had a closer inspection.
ive managed to find out where the steam is coming from but i dont understand how i get fluid spray.
The steam is coming from around the bottom corner of the radiator by the big hose and leaking somewhere around there as its all wet
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but i dont get how im getting spray at the top of the radiator if its leaking at the bottom ??
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i have noticed a little outlet on the radiator on the right hand side that a bit damp, could it be coming out of here ???
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any help or suggestions how its steaming from the bottom of the radiator but wet all over the hoses etc ???

Scoobyno1

iTrader: (22)

Could it be where youre driving it and the force of the air is pushing to the top or maybe the fan cutting in a flinging it around?

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

as its steam and in a pressurised system it will just be the water being forced from the rad and sprayed all over.

r1c

iTrader: (9)

Steam, turning to water as it rises and meets cold air through the rad?

JPC500

The steam is only a bit and there is no pressure with it, it just floats about and if there is a breeze you can't really see it. It's definately spraying about the top tho

SLAB

iTrader: (77)

Crack a egg white in it am not yoking. the wet stuff on the top is as Scoobyno1 said being forced up by air

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

water must be dropping on the headers, it's the only place hot enough to turn water to steam on contact.
Trev

TANKWRX

is that not a crack in the rad in the top right of pic 1 ?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Jet of water, hits a belt or crank pulley and then it goes every where, or its hitting a fan, so if the a/c is on it'll go everywhere.

Sticking a pressure tester on the header tank with the engine running will quickly show where the leak is and how it sprays everywhere.

as for the 'little' outlet in the last picture, erm, can we have an arrow, because all I see in that picture is the rubberised bracket that the rad fixes to. There is a small hose on the other top corner, but this just goes back to the header tank, and is not in the picture.

I would avoid using the car until the leak is fixed. Air lock can easily occur causing it to overheat and blow the head gaskets which'll make a job costing a few hundred quid cost you a few thousand!...DO NOT rely on the temperature guage, it doesn't work properly when there is no coolant flow through the engine!!!

SouthWalesSam

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem.

Bought a £45 pattern part radiator off eBay, £25 quids worth of coolant, and a couple of new clips. I jacked the front up onto axle stands and fitted the new rad myself.

I was really slow and faffed about (spray painting fan shrouds with rust primer and matt black, etc) and did it in 2.5 hours.

Been fine for over a year, rock solid temperatures, no issues. More peace of mind than Radweld, eggs, topping up ....

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

The above is better advice than most

tubbytommy

iTrader: (20)

the radiator is broken there is only one proper fix, buy a new radiator

JPC500

Thanks all, I was gonna wait to see what the garage say on Friday but **** it I've just ordered a new rad, it should be here tomorrow

JPC500

What are the symptoms if the water pump has gone ??

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

There are different symptoms depending on 'how' it fails. These include: Overheating. Heater not blowing hot. Blown head gaskets. Broken cambelt. Rumbling or squeeling noise from the front of engine behind the cambelt cover. Or just a bt of coolant loss.

Can happen in any order.

JPC500

Found the leak !!
it looks like it is the top of the radiator seal thats gone as coolant is sitting all along the top edge, with the engine running at temperature if i wipe it all clean within 20 secs its all there again.
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ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

FWIW the radiators only have finite life.

The one on my old MY97 classic split two years ago. Still its not bad for a 12 year old car (now 14 ). Lucky the current owner didn't overheat it, as he's a bit of dingbat when it comes to checking fluid levels etc.

brendy76

iTrader: (6)

When mine went, it was the top plastics, ringed in the pic below.



Easiest way to find the leak is to get it up to temperature then open the bonnet and rev via the throttle cable (assuming non dbw setup). You will see the water spurting out. The water you showed on the top can still be caused by a leak further down which is splashing back onto the top.
For what its worth, I got a replacement rad from Ebay for less than £60 and it is 100% with regards to quality and fitment.

JPC500

Cheers for pic mate, I have already ordered a new rad I should get it Thursday

JPC500

New radiator fitted today, hooray happy days.
no more steaming headlights

brendy76

iTrader: (6)

Happy days, burp, burp and burp the system again, there always seems to be a little air left in there and you can har it inside the car when you rev the engine a little. Got all mone sorted after a couple of burping sessions.

JPC500

I was worried after I first picked it up, drove it for 10 min then smoke peeing out everywhere . Took it back to garage and it suddenly stopped but apparently must've been some coolant spilled under heat guard and the smoke was it burning off and evaporating. Shat myself at first lol it's running fine now phew !