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its a bit of a pain when i did it i found it easier to remove the battery and washer bottle on the right hand side as the access isnt easy,then the air intake thingy and air box on the left.
im sure you can do it without but it makes it far easier.
I got told that u can buy special length scooby spark plug replacing tools but iv not changed the plugs yet, was gunna do it today after checkin euro car parts for this tool
i did it, and its not too difficult, once the parts i listed above are removed its a little easier, allow a couple of hours and take your time not to cross thread the plugs and you should be ok.