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Old 23 July 2011, 11:07 PM
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pugsleygti
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Default help getting engine out

i have an early model classic and trying to get the engine out but i can't seem to split it from the gear box, its split on the one side but on the side of the starter motor its still tight, i don't think i have missed any bolts but i am guessing i must have somewhere. does any one know if there are any hiding at the bottom or is there a Technic to it i'm missing
cheers
Chris
Old 23 July 2011, 11:21 PM
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wr pete
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You have to release the clutch fork there is a cap behind the starter motor with a Allen key needed to undo it when undone you need to screw a bolt in to the end of it to slide out the pin that holds the clutch fork in. If you have done this and the box still won't come off you need to knock the dowels through with a punch that are on either side of the bell housing.
Old 23 July 2011, 11:28 PM
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wr pete is spot on!
Old 24 July 2011, 12:53 AM
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if you use brutal force you will end up causing damage, follow what WR PETE said and you will get it out. good luck
Old 24 July 2011, 01:07 PM
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pugsleygti
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cheers... i saw what i thought was a dowel just wanted that confirming. i know about the releasing the clutch folk.. issue i have is that i took the cover off then screwed in a screw but wasn't sure what should been happening and it looks like i used the worst quality screws in the world cause the head sheered off, any advice.. should it pull out or does need screwing out ????
Old 24 July 2011, 01:15 PM
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leedscal
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all you have to do is screw a bolt (m6 bolt if iirc 10mm head) in a few threads and pull the pin out it shouldnt be tight at all
Old 24 July 2011, 01:20 PM
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thats what i thought.... does it make a difference what position the fork is in
off to have another crack at it now, its only my old one thats been broke for about 2 years now, though i would have a go at it myself, certainly wouldn't play with my other classic.

cheers for help

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Old 24 July 2011, 01:56 PM
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Minjeeta
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Engine outs the easy bit too mate... Watch out when you bolt the engine back to the bellhousing - the bolts hae to go in the right order and you hae to check the thrust bearing sits right on the fork, so it doesn't jam against the spline when you tighten the gearbox bolts up. And plenty grease on the shaft when it goes back in. Good luck mate.
Old 24 July 2011, 02:04 PM
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leedscal
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also when you put it back in you will have to remove your slave (its an external slave as you will have noticed) as you will have to knock the fork to knock your centre bearing in but your slave wont allow you to knock the fork far enough if you get me lol if you dont you will start to panic when you press cluch and it just hits floor lol
Old 24 July 2011, 02:45 PM
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well still can't get that pin out... don't know what is going on with it, screwed a bolt into it and tried to pull it out but not having it.. any ideas or is there another way????
Old 24 July 2011, 02:59 PM
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wr pete
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You need to give the pin a good pull while wiggling the clutch arm. You can use one of the battery clamp rods if you can't find a suitable bolt then tap the end of the rod where it bends up or get some mole grips on the bolt/rod it should come out fairly easy.
Old 24 July 2011, 03:21 PM
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Thats a good idea ^^^
also you could get a longish bolt and put an 8mm spanner behind the head baring off the top of the box theres a few ways to do it but theres nothing else holding that pin in so dont ***** step about pulling it out it shouldnt damage it
Old 24 July 2011, 03:33 PM
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well cheers for the advice guys, i am wiggling and pulling best i can but not having it
Old 24 July 2011, 03:38 PM
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Have you pushed the engine back in so that its flush with the box? As you said u had a gap at one side witch means it will have been cockled which would put pressure on you pin wich could cause it not to pull out
Old 24 July 2011, 03:39 PM
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If the box is half off then that might be why it won't come out, put a couple of bolts back in the bell housing nip them up then try to remove the pin.
Old 24 July 2011, 08:03 PM
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aye, I used a pinch bar behind the head of the 6mm bolt forcing it horizontally, then used mole grips one it moved 10 or 15mm. There's no be much wiggle in a shaft in a .005/.006 push fit clearance hole.

Like the boys have said though if the forks being forced against the shaft, ye can wiggle all ye want, it'll no budge.

Ye'll get there though mate...
Old 26 July 2011, 10:56 PM
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pugsleygti
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yeah got it all sorted , the engine is now out, well once i disconnected the power steering which i forgot to.
well start to strip it when i get home again but cheers guys for all your help, looks like everyone on here has rebuilt there engines at some stage lol
sure i will be back soon for advice
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