Spark Plug Seized And Broken When Removed
02 July 2011, 09:28 PM
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Spark Plug Seized And Broken When Removed
Help
Just want some advice please. I have had a Subaru classic (1996 with Prodrive performance pack)stood now for the last 6 years and it hasnt run other than reversed in and out of the drive for a clean once in a while. I have now got some time on my hands due to the kids going to school ect and thought that I would invest some money and time to start to make it road worthy again. I was struggling like hell to remove the passanger side far spark plug when it broke half way down on the ceramic part. The rest of the plug must be seized as I have been unable to remove it successfully. What can I do next?
Cheers
Steve
Just want some advice please. I have had a Subaru classic (1996 with Prodrive performance pack)stood now for the last 6 years and it hasnt run other than reversed in and out of the drive for a clean once in a while. I have now got some time on my hands due to the kids going to school ect and thought that I would invest some money and time to start to make it road worthy again. I was struggling like hell to remove the passanger side far spark plug when it broke half way down on the ceramic part. The rest of the plug must be seized as I have been unable to remove it successfully. What can I do next?
Cheers
Steve
02 July 2011, 09:54 PM
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Penetrant?
Try plus gas or similar thread penetrant, and leave for a day or two. You still have the hexagonal metal part of the plug to apply torque to? Then spark plug socket on half inch drive with a T bar with a short bar on the T!
02 July 2011, 11:49 PM
#5
ok.lol,
maybe you sould have replaced your plugs along time ago as they are very important!
basically as above,as long as the hex part is still in the head you should defo be able to remove them,get the correct socket and ensure you do not round the head of the plug(hex) off,if you can get a socket on there then it should come out ok even if you have to use a breaker bar or some sort of extended tool to help you get some good leverage.if it shears completely in the head which i doubt, but is possible then you have problems which would probably require engine out to be able to remove them,
you should be able to break the seal(hopefully) and once they start undoing a little then gradually losen them bit by bit even if you have to wind back in a fraction and vise versa.if you start undoing and it starts getting tight then dont keep undoing as you will end up shearing them off.
hope this helps.
ps.thanks joz! u are a legend!
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03 July 2011, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for the advise, got some plus gas on order but will try a bit of WD first. Access to the plugs is a nightmare but hopefully I will get there with it.
03 July 2011, 01:41 PM
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Last edited by 99greenwagon; 03 July 2011 at 01:42 PM. Reason: spelling as usual.
04 July 2011, 12:59 PM
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All plugs removed after letting soak in Wd over night. Thanks alot for the advise as I did start to panic. Can I just ask which oil would you recommend I use as I have now drained it and would like to start the engine using a recommended oil. Cheers
04 July 2011, 01:24 PM
#12
Go to "Recommend me an oil" on Opie's website and enter the appropriate info. Or even better, use their contact form and list your car's full spec., and they'll get back to you by personal email, with their carefully considered recommendation...
05 July 2011, 02:57 AM
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Hi again, I have a set of ngk PFR6B which I purchased as part of a service kit a good while ago. Would I get away with not gapping them, I have a prodrive performance kit with a Ramair replacement filter with full stainless exhaust system putting out 238bhp.
05 July 2011, 10:02 AM
#16
No. Gap!
I mean, it's totally free and takes seconds! (Unless you're too tight to buy a feeler gauge? -- in which case borrow one from a mate! 
).
You must gap them correctly for fuel mix to burn properly and/or the spark not to be blown out under boost.
0.7mm, Or 27thou (0.027"), should be okay for your spec...
I mean, it's totally free and takes seconds!
(Unless you're too tight to buy a feeler gauge? -- in which case borrow one from a mate! ).You must gap them correctly for fuel mix to burn properly and/or the spark not to be blown out under boost.
0.7mm, Or 27thou (0.027"), should be okay for your spec...
Last edited by joz8968; 05 July 2011 at 06:00 PM.
05 July 2011, 03:03 PM
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Mixed opinions?????
Plugs have to have the correct gap to work efficiently so if anybody tells you not to check them ignore them because they don't know what they are talking about.
And as Joz says - it costs nothing!
Plugs have to have the correct gap to work efficiently so if anybody tells you not to check them ignore them because they don't know what they are talking about.
And as Joz says - it costs nothing!
05 July 2011, 06:21 PM
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Plugs now gapped to 0.7mm and refitted, oil and filter to be renewed hopefully tomorrow, will try to fire the engine up for the 1st time in 6 months OOPS!
05 July 2011, 06:45 PM
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Im not aware of this no but I have read somewhere about filling the filter with oil 1st. The car has been off the road now for 6 yrs on a sorn since March 2005. The Mot has obviously expired and I am wanting to get it ready to drive to a garage to be looked over. The car holds really good memories hense the reason now to splash the cash and have some fun. Any info/advise would be greatfully appreciated as it has been a dream for some time now to get it back to tip top. I know I am going to have problems with the brakes and handbrake etc but im learning as I go along and couldnt be more thankful for the advise I have recieved already from other members. Cheers
05 July 2011, 07:35 PM
#24
yep,defo gap the plugs,pre fill oil filter,disconnect crank sensor and cam sensor and turn engine over for around 30 seconds.
reconnect sensors and fire up.
most engine failures happen typically after an oil change as mine did,and with yours not been started in six months i wouldnt risk it.
reconnect sensors and fire up.
most engine failures happen typically after an oil change as mine did,and with yours not been started in six months i wouldnt risk it.
05 July 2011, 07:44 PM
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Where are these sensors located? Are there any illustrated photos anywhere as I really am a beginner at this sort of thing but Im enjoying every minute up to now!
05 July 2011, 08:16 PM
#28
Indeed!
Just do it. It can only help (and has logic behind it). Put it this way: if you didn't do it, and suffered a big end failure soon after, you'll always question it and be royally hacked off!
Of course, it might have happened anyway, but by doing it, at least you would have done everything possible to try to prevent it. Bottom line: it takes seconds to do and is totally free - can you afford not to?
You only need to disconn. the crank one (no fuel and spark)...
Last edited by joz8968; 05 July 2011 at 08:31 PM.