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Rotated Turbo set up

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Old 15 May 2011, 09:02 AM
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jimmy77
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Default Rotated Turbo set up

as the title says.

i saw some at jap fest what are the benefits?

Pros cons?

rough price on going to a rotated set up

what do you have to i.e change

and a few photos would be great
Old 15 May 2011, 09:14 AM
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chris_wrx
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rcm do a kit for a shade under 4 grand but i suggest you forge your bottom end first.
the pros ane a better air flow and the chance to fit a huge turbo. cons are the price and a bit of fabrication needed with water and oil lines there is more to it but thats the main reason oh and it looks cool
Old 18 May 2011, 10:19 PM
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jimmy77
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cheers chris i just wanted to see what was involved i couldn't afford that unless i win the lottery lol nice to no a lil bit more about it thanks any way chris
Old 18 May 2011, 10:47 PM
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jura11
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This maybe clear out advantage or disadvantage:

Standard location turbos are limited to their size, and the intake has to run under the stock manifold. The largest inlet that bolt-ons have are a 3", and if you look at any 3 inch inlet, it narrows down to fit under the manifold, then widens back out.

Technically, the only disadvantage to a rotated setup is cost. Even if you're running a small turbo, rotated setups make more sense that the intake is basically bolted directly to the turbo. So even small turbos would benefit, but it would be waste to spend that kind of dough on a small turbo.

Rotated turbos aren't limited to their size as much, and the direct inlet allows for larger size inlets and less piping, which lowers restriction.

That's why it's not uncommon to see GT30R dyno plots hit the same peak numbers as a 3" Green, but still have better topend. The larger housing and bigger turbine and compressor wheel allow a GT30R to hit bigger numbers, but the direct 4" inlet helps the spool.

We know the fast spool of the GT30R isn't from the BB CHRA because the GT30R hybrid's don't spool as fast as a 3" Green. In fact, almost all dynoplots show that the BB CHRA does almost nothing for spool. Take the Element GT65 kit for example. It's a thrust bearing 65lb rotated turbo, which is the same size compressor wheel as a Garrett GT35R. The housing is ever so slightly smaller than a GT35R, which does help improve spool. You would think the a slightly smaller housing may be compensated by the BB CHRA of the Garrett turbo, but dynoplots typically show the Element GT65 turbo does spool quite a bit faster than the GT35R.

At the end of the day, it's really cost. Even if you were looking for a 50 trim turbo like a Green, a rotated setup with the same turbo would still yield faster spool because of the direct intake, even if the size is the same as a stock location. However, people usually associate rotated setups to bigger turbos because it's the only way to get turbos that big. They prove to be a much better option than the very large bolt-ons because they yield larger power with the ability to run larger housing turbos, plus they don't take forever to spool because of the direct intake.

The other thing is people get so stuck using IWG's on their setup, and bolt-ons allow people to do so. People who go rotated ALWAYS use external gates, which is another huge improvement.

Basically, if you can afford it, you should go rotated.
Price from £588(downpipe and upipe)+GT35R(£700 for used one),GT SPEC headers(from £350-£450),fitting etc.

Jura
Old 19 May 2011, 07:04 AM
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So, technically speaking you could for example, go rotated on something like a VF35 and still see an improvement? And then once you have the supporting
mods you could simply bolt in GT range turbo? Are all the connections the same?
Old 20 May 2011, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by allsop83
So, technically speaking you could for example, go rotated on something like a VF35 and still see an improvement? And then once you have the supporting
mods you could simply bolt in GT range turbo? Are all the connections the same?
Yep and no. The uppipe would need to be altered/changed to suit the type and style of turbo but in theory you could simply then bolt on a standard larger bolt on turbo in the rotated position such as a MD321V or SC54 etc and then not need to change the pipework.

It does work though.

Mapped a rotated VF43 yesterday which made 446 lb/ft of torque and 371bhp on a 2.5
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