engine rebuild
#1
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engine rebuild
Hello,
I want to know what you would suggest engine wise for my car. The car is stil running strong, but I will be going to a mapping session within two weeks. And I don't know if the engine wil last. It has done 177.000 km. My specs are as follows:
STi Type RA MY95
Closed deck block (oem still)
STi 6 speed JDM, with OEM 6 speed clutch
TD05-20G
850 CC injectors side feed
NGK PFR7B
Walbro fuel pump
Z32 maf sensor
Apexi PFC with commander and boost controll kit
Apexi air filter
FMIC
I will be mapping this for E85 over here in norway. So BHP wise I would most likely see 420 BHP. I suspect the clutch to be the weakest link?!
I have also ordered a complete timing belt kit with water pump and oil pump. Will be changed before the mapping session.
So what type of rebuild would you reccomend me if the engine fails? And what price are we looking at.
regards,
Thomas
I want to know what you would suggest engine wise for my car. The car is stil running strong, but I will be going to a mapping session within two weeks. And I don't know if the engine wil last. It has done 177.000 km. My specs are as follows:
STi Type RA MY95
Closed deck block (oem still)
STi 6 speed JDM, with OEM 6 speed clutch
TD05-20G
850 CC injectors side feed
NGK PFR7B
Walbro fuel pump
Z32 maf sensor
Apexi PFC with commander and boost controll kit
Apexi air filter
FMIC
I will be mapping this for E85 over here in norway. So BHP wise I would most likely see 420 BHP. I suspect the clutch to be the weakest link?!
I have also ordered a complete timing belt kit with water pump and oil pump. Will be changed before the mapping session.
So what type of rebuild would you reccomend me if the engine fails? And what price are we looking at.
regards,
Thomas
#2
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why not postpone the mapping and just get the engine build done first if you can afford it surely prevention is better than cure rather than risk damageing the block ect and having to pay for another map once the engine gets replaced imho
#3
Engine Specialist
At that mileage you're most likely going to see bottom end bearing failure whilst mapping or gasket failure if you are still running the non steel originals, I assume not.
In terms of engine build, as long as the block is ok after a failure it all depends on your ultimate power goals. But a rebuilt forged bottom end, new crank and bearings will be enough for 400-500 with arp studs.
Hope this helps,
Graham
In terms of engine build, as long as the block is ok after a failure it all depends on your ultimate power goals. But a rebuilt forged bottom end, new crank and bearings will be enough for 400-500 with arp studs.
Hope this helps,
Graham
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With a CDB I'd get a stroker rebuild done and go 2.1 - either buy a kit from the Likes of Lateral or Cosworth and get a local reputable builder to build the engine or go to one of the one stop shops such as Engine Tuner or Scoobyclinic. I had my 2.5 built by Andy Williams (WMS on here) I'm not sure if he does strokers but I'm sure it's well within his abilities!
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