As above when i bought the car the CEL was coming on intermittently and when i checked via the black connectors it was showing a 22 fault. Under closer examination the connector plug was missing from the cars harness end, and the wire had been pushed into the plug on the knock sensor's harness. My mate rewired a spade connector so it fitted tight and gave a good connection. Tried again and got the same fault code, still intermittently. Bought a new OEM knock sensor which we fitted this morning and now the CEL is staying on constant and giving a code 22 (knock sensor) fault. Carried out the reset procedure conecting green to green and black to black ect, and wouldn't give the all clear signal just repeated the 22 fault code.

The wire coming from the car, and the plug coming from the sensor harness are tight and making a good connection, so do i actually need the plug or should it be fine? The cars harness only has a single wire coming to where the plug should be, so can't see why it would need the plug, ie for an earth, as there doesn't seem to be one?

The car drives fine on boost and is perhaps a little hesitant on part throttle. Its also had a new MAF and Lambda, both OEM parts. Its had an API rebuild and is pretty much standard apart from a 3" exhaust and HKS SS dump valve, not sure wether or not its been remapped.
Any ideas?

 

 

BUMP!!
Surely theres some knowledgable fellows on here who know the answer for young Taylor!!!
Good luck Yorkie Man!

 

Ha ha, cheers Rob.

 

would it not be easier just to get the correct knock sensor and fit it?

knock sensor error code 22 will not stop the car running as normal but will prevent the ECU from retarding the timing should it sense knock (simply because it cant!) so in theory if you are always running correct RON petrol you 'should' be ok. you can pick up knock sensors for £15 odd 2nd hand

 

Fitted a new subaru knock sensor, but the white plug is missing from the cars engine wiaring loom, so all your left with is a wire with a female connector on the end..

Nick.

 

Depending where you got the sensor from you may or may not have received the correct converter wire from the sensor to the loom connected (circa 8 inches long?) I'm fairly certain I've seen two types and connected differently (one joins the pins, and one just takes one pin? Check that you get about 550kohms to ground when measuring the knock sensor output to ground (e.g. engine block or neg battery terminal, with the ecu wire disconnected). If you get zero ohms (short) then you might have the wrong adapter wire. If you get a value different that 550kOhms but not a short then you may have a a suspect sensor (even if its new!)

 

as far as i know the v5/v6 has a 2 pin type knock sensor like this



for sale if needed

 

Thanks for the replies fella's.
Had the sensor from Import Car Parts and its a genuine Subaru one, as per the picture above.
Talking to The Moose's dad who is an electrician and it was suggested that interference could be an issue. As it is the cable for the sensor was cable tied to another wire to keep it clear of the gearbox. I'll be taking another look tomorrow and fingers crossed.

 

Will be checking the "old" knock sensor with this method also, cheers tjmatt.

 

Right, seperated the wire from being cable tied to another wire incase of interference being and issue and no joy. Also mates dad checked the old knock sensor and it's knackered. Didn't have the tools on me to remove the new knock sensor yesterday to test it, so made the connection between it and the cars loom wire using a connector block, so to discount there being a connection issue. Tried it again and the CEL is on constant still. Next step is to remove the new knock sensor and test it also to see if, despite being new, it's faulty. Another option is to try swapping the wiring harnesses over incase i've been sent the correct sensor with the wrong harness, even though it looks identical.

 

Problem sorted! Thanks for the replies, fellas and thanks to tjmatt for the testing advice. Tested the new knock sensor and was getting 557k resistence and tested the old sensor and it was fubar. So mate had a closer look at the new knock sensor and despite being genuine subaru (JECS) part, the quality of the plastic surround where the actual round part of the sensor clips to its loom (not the car loom) wasn't brilliant. So with a little squeezing of the metal clips to tighten their grip on the sensors pins, it was refitted and good to go, happy days.

Big thank you to "The Moose" and his old man.