This can't happen twice in a year surely?
#1
This can't happen twice in a year surely?
Hi everyone,
I have an 06 STI spec D PPP. It is totally standard and has done 46k miles.
Last Christmas (32,000 miles) it blew a headgasket (oil in the coolant) and cost me £1800 to fix. Had head reskimmed and valve seats redone.
It burnt about a litre of oil every 400/500 miles before it went and still does now (even though there's no smoke, or leaks etc)
I thought it was Pistonlands and a few garages have suggested as much on here. I took it to a few garages and they told me the compression was good etc.
I've just basically just been topping it up every other time I drive it as it seems fine power wise. (I'm just letting it develop as my grandad used to say) I get about 60 miles on £20 of tesco super unleaded. Don't know if knackered pistonlands reduce mpg, think I read it somewhere.
I didn't want to spend money on a forged setup only to find it burnt the same amount of oil (Subaru said 1 litre to 1000 miles is within spec, and with the ppp thought it might lose more through blowby etc)
Anyway, took it for an oil change yesterday and drove home. I picked my kid up from nursery today and took it up to 4/5000 rpm Max on the dual carriageway before returning home.
As I slowed down to pull up at my house steam started coming from under the bonnet. Albeit not much. The temps were fine and I turned the engine off and popped the bonnet.
The small hose on the right of the radiator cap had come off and I assume this is where the coolant steam was coming from.
I've not started it since and I'm just praying the headgasket hasn't gone again.
I checked the oil level and it seemed fine (and clean for once) not overfilled or anything.
Any advice? I'm getting sick of paying out on this car. There is always something wrong with it it seems.
Have I just been unlucky or are headgaskets going all the time on these 2.5 cars?
I love the car but it is getting beyond a joke all the problems that keep manifesting! My partner gave birth to my second child this week and money is very tight at the mo.
Thanks for any input you guys can give.
I have an 06 STI spec D PPP. It is totally standard and has done 46k miles.
Last Christmas (32,000 miles) it blew a headgasket (oil in the coolant) and cost me £1800 to fix. Had head reskimmed and valve seats redone.
It burnt about a litre of oil every 400/500 miles before it went and still does now (even though there's no smoke, or leaks etc)
I thought it was Pistonlands and a few garages have suggested as much on here. I took it to a few garages and they told me the compression was good etc.
I've just basically just been topping it up every other time I drive it as it seems fine power wise. (I'm just letting it develop as my grandad used to say) I get about 60 miles on £20 of tesco super unleaded. Don't know if knackered pistonlands reduce mpg, think I read it somewhere.
I didn't want to spend money on a forged setup only to find it burnt the same amount of oil (Subaru said 1 litre to 1000 miles is within spec, and with the ppp thought it might lose more through blowby etc)
Anyway, took it for an oil change yesterday and drove home. I picked my kid up from nursery today and took it up to 4/5000 rpm Max on the dual carriageway before returning home.
As I slowed down to pull up at my house steam started coming from under the bonnet. Albeit not much. The temps were fine and I turned the engine off and popped the bonnet.
The small hose on the right of the radiator cap had come off and I assume this is where the coolant steam was coming from.
I've not started it since and I'm just praying the headgasket hasn't gone again.
I checked the oil level and it seemed fine (and clean for once) not overfilled or anything.
Any advice? I'm getting sick of paying out on this car. There is always something wrong with it it seems.
Have I just been unlucky or are headgaskets going all the time on these 2.5 cars?
I love the car but it is getting beyond a joke all the problems that keep manifesting! My partner gave birth to my second child this week and money is very tight at the mo.
Thanks for any input you guys can give.
Last edited by TheDuke; 04 February 2011 at 04:09 PM. Reason: Spelling
#2
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Best thing to do is let it cool, top up the coolant, not forgetting anti-freeze and check it daily for a few days. If it's not falling, then you ought to be OK. If it IS falling, get a garage to do a sniff test. Best of luck.
However, if the level is now low, DO be careful refilling, or you'll airlock it.
I was taught to fill through a funnel S L O W L Y via the rearmost pipe leading off the coolant tank, the metal one that sits on top of the engine, heater controls on full hot. It took me half an hour to FILL mine from empty after a rad change, DON'T let it gurgle in the funnel.
Once full, replace pipe, set the engine going and watch for bubbles at the reservoir, topping up, or mopping up as required. When the fans kick in, or once it's HOT, replace cap and drive round the block, heaters still on hot.
Allow to cool, check level and adjust as necessary.
However, if the level is now low, DO be careful refilling, or you'll airlock it.
I was taught to fill through a funnel S L O W L Y via the rearmost pipe leading off the coolant tank, the metal one that sits on top of the engine, heater controls on full hot. It took me half an hour to FILL mine from empty after a rad change, DON'T let it gurgle in the funnel.
Once full, replace pipe, set the engine going and watch for bubbles at the reservoir, topping up, or mopping up as required. When the fans kick in, or once it's HOT, replace cap and drive round the block, heaters still on hot.
Allow to cool, check level and adjust as necessary.
#4
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whats the oil pump like.
as its not always down to pistons.
best bet, is to look under the car, for signs of oil lose. if theres just a slight leak.
once hot, will tricle alot more. look near the rear of the engine, could even be a seal
if your compesion is fine. and no coolent loss or even smell from it
check for the slightest leaks mate
as its not always down to pistons.
best bet, is to look under the car, for signs of oil lose. if theres just a slight leak.
once hot, will tricle alot more. look near the rear of the engine, could even be a seal
if your compesion is fine. and no coolent loss or even smell from it
check for the slightest leaks mate
#5
Thanks for all the replies. When we did the oil change yesterday the mechanic pointed out there was a slight oil leak from the turbo feed or return pipe. I've actually had it in a garage for this before.
This man was my dads mate and said it is quite common on all turbo cars.
I've taken it in to two different garages to get it sorted but to no avail.
The turbo was taken off last time and there was nothing wrong with the turbo itself. When the head gaskets went last time I had the heads reskimmed and the valveseats redone so I doubt its from the valves.
Would i lose a lot of oil from this turbo hose? It didn't look too major.
I'm more worried about the head gaskets to be honest.
Debating whether to get a new cosworth shortblock, get mine rebuilt with forged internals or we buy any car it and cut my losses!
I'm worried that the block might have warped as one of the tuners on here said that high oil consumption is due to a warped block.
Do you have to notify the DVLA if you get a new engine etc?
Will it need remapping if I get a cosworth short block or mine rebuilt with forged internals?
I know I should find out if it's definitely the head gaskets first, but I know, deep dow,n in the cockles of my heart, that it will be something major and I want it done properly this time.
Any advice would be great.
I must have spent nearly £500 this year on compression test and allsorts of fault diagnosis **** and getting fed up to be honest.
It has been spitting out the same error code few times these last few months.
P0011 - Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over-Advanced or system performance bank 1.
No loss of power or anything but I got sick of paying £35 every week to just get the same code diagnosed!
Any more advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance
This man was my dads mate and said it is quite common on all turbo cars.
I've taken it in to two different garages to get it sorted but to no avail.
The turbo was taken off last time and there was nothing wrong with the turbo itself. When the head gaskets went last time I had the heads reskimmed and the valveseats redone so I doubt its from the valves.
Would i lose a lot of oil from this turbo hose? It didn't look too major.
I'm more worried about the head gaskets to be honest.
Debating whether to get a new cosworth shortblock, get mine rebuilt with forged internals or we buy any car it and cut my losses!
I'm worried that the block might have warped as one of the tuners on here said that high oil consumption is due to a warped block.
Do you have to notify the DVLA if you get a new engine etc?
Will it need remapping if I get a cosworth short block or mine rebuilt with forged internals?
I know I should find out if it's definitely the head gaskets first, but I know, deep dow,n in the cockles of my heart, that it will be something major and I want it done properly this time.
Any advice would be great.
I must have spent nearly £500 this year on compression test and allsorts of fault diagnosis **** and getting fed up to be honest.
It has been spitting out the same error code few times these last few months.
P0011 - Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over-Advanced or system performance bank 1.
No loss of power or anything but I got sick of paying £35 every week to just get the same code diagnosed!
Any more advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance
#6
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has the belt jumped a tooth at all mate, that could also couse oil lose.
and can still run right-ish only way to tell, apart from the code is a rolling road.
may be worth have the timing checked mate. just to be sure
and can still run right-ish only way to tell, apart from the code is a rolling road.
may be worth have the timing checked mate. just to be sure
#7
Thanks for all the replies.
I checked the car this morning and found the expansion tank was over the full Mark by quite a lot.
When the car leaked coolant, I mustn't have lost much as it is still over the high/full marker.
I tried Taking the lid off the metal coolant tank on the left of the engine and starting it.
It warmed up and bubbled etc. When warm I put the lid back on and went for a drive with the heaters on full.
The heaters still worked. I then took it for a longer and harder drive and then stopped to see if the temp would rise (like it did last time my head gaskets went)
It didn't.
Do you think that too much coolant in the car made the hose blow off? As it has got a lot warmer these last few days?
Please help as every time I go to a garage I always get ripped off as it's blatantly obvious I don't have a clue what im doing when it comes to cars!
I'm hoping it isn't head gaskets and im just being paranoid.
How do I get the excess coolant out of the expansion tank? Isnt it poisonous? Siphoning doesn't seem like a good idea???
Would too much coolant in the car cause that tiny hose on the right of the radiator to come off? There is no clip holding it in place either. Is there supposed to be?
I checked the car this morning and found the expansion tank was over the full Mark by quite a lot.
When the car leaked coolant, I mustn't have lost much as it is still over the high/full marker.
I tried Taking the lid off the metal coolant tank on the left of the engine and starting it.
It warmed up and bubbled etc. When warm I put the lid back on and went for a drive with the heaters on full.
The heaters still worked. I then took it for a longer and harder drive and then stopped to see if the temp would rise (like it did last time my head gaskets went)
It didn't.
Do you think that too much coolant in the car made the hose blow off? As it has got a lot warmer these last few days?
Please help as every time I go to a garage I always get ripped off as it's blatantly obvious I don't have a clue what im doing when it comes to cars!
I'm hoping it isn't head gaskets and im just being paranoid.
How do I get the excess coolant out of the expansion tank? Isnt it poisonous? Siphoning doesn't seem like a good idea???
Would too much coolant in the car cause that tiny hose on the right of the radiator to come off? There is no clip holding it in place either. Is there supposed to be?
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#11
I'll try it tomorrow and maybe use a turkey baster!
If you get your engine rebuilt do they check the block for warping etc?
I will never want any more than 400bhp and 400 lb/ft so what do you think I'll need?
Just pistons or are the ej257 rods weak as well?
I'll get cosworth head gaskets but worried it'll go bang again.
Am I jumping the gun here? What are your honest opinions. Just tell me straight as I just want to get this engine sorted nice and for all!
If you get your engine rebuilt do they check the block for warping etc?
I will never want any more than 400bhp and 400 lb/ft so what do you think I'll need?
Just pistons or are the ej257 rods weak as well?
I'll get cosworth head gaskets but worried it'll go bang again.
Am I jumping the gun here? What are your honest opinions. Just tell me straight as I just want to get this engine sorted nice and for all!
#12
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where in the uk are you .........its seems to me that you need to find a "good" Subaru specialist to get the car repaired as in the long run if will cost you more .
Get its done right the first time round
Any good Garage will check all items when they are doing a rebuild.
if yr going the forged route you might as well fit uprated rods and ARP head bolts along with the gasket .
bottom line is "find a good specialist to do the work ".......this advice is from experience as my P1 is STILL in the tuners (car went in august/2008 !!! )
ps....does not sound like yr gasket have gone ...maybe just the hose loose so just tighten it and drive carefully and keep an eye on the temp guage !!
Get its done right the first time round
Any good Garage will check all items when they are doing a rebuild.
if yr going the forged route you might as well fit uprated rods and ARP head bolts along with the gasket .
bottom line is "find a good specialist to do the work ".......this advice is from experience as my P1 is STILL in the tuners (car went in august/2008 !!! )
ps....does not sound like yr gasket have gone ...maybe just the hose loose so just tighten it and drive carefully and keep an eye on the temp guage !!
Last edited by bighead; 07 February 2011 at 01:59 PM.
#13
Thanks for the replies. I've taken the car out on a lot of short trips and a few long ones and it seems to be fine. It hasn't overheated once and goes well.
Hopefully I was just being paranoid!
Would too much coolant in the system make the small hose come off?
Could it just be one of those things or am I being optimistic?
Can't believe how long your p1 has been at the tuners.
I'd be chasing that one up for sure! Last time mine took 2 to 3 weeks to fix.
Scoobyclinic is the closest to me regarding tuners. I would like the ecutek race rom drive by wire dual map jobber, but don't know if they do it yet! I would want a map for performance and a map for economy! 2 cylinder and no boost 50mpg would be nice
Hopefully I was just being paranoid!
Would too much coolant in the system make the small hose come off?
Could it just be one of those things or am I being optimistic?
Can't believe how long your p1 has been at the tuners.
I'd be chasing that one up for sure! Last time mine took 2 to 3 weeks to fix.
Scoobyclinic is the closest to me regarding tuners. I would like the ecutek race rom drive by wire dual map jobber, but don't know if they do it yet! I would want a map for performance and a map for economy! 2 cylinder and no boost 50mpg would be nice
Last edited by TheDuke; 07 February 2011 at 12:57 PM.
#15
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Would too much coolant in the system make the small hose come off?
Could it just be one of those things or am I being optimistic?
I would like the ecutek race rom drive by wire dual map jobber, but don't know if they do it yet! I would want a map for performance and a map for economy! 2 cylinder and no boost 50mpg would be nice
Could it just be one of those things or am I being optimistic?
I would like the ecutek race rom drive by wire dual map jobber, but don't know if they do it yet! I would want a map for performance and a map for economy! 2 cylinder and no boost 50mpg would be nice
nah just one of those things...as hose can come loose
you'll need an aftermarket ecu for that
Last edited by bighead; 07 February 2011 at 02:12 PM.
#16
where in the uk are you .........its seems to me that you need to find a "good" Subaru specialist to get the car repaired as in the long run if will cost you more .
Get its done right the first time round
Any good Garage will check all items when they are doing a rebuild.
if yr going the forged route you might as well fit uprated rods and ARP head bolts along with the gasket .
bottom line is "find a good specialist to do the work ".......this advice is from experience as my P1 is STILL in the tuners (car went in august/2008 !!! )
ps....does not sound like yr gasket have gone ...maybe just the hose loose so just tighten it and drive carefully and keep an eye on the temp guage !!
Get its done right the first time round
Any good Garage will check all items when they are doing a rebuild.
if yr going the forged route you might as well fit uprated rods and ARP head bolts along with the gasket .
bottom line is "find a good specialist to do the work ".......this advice is from experience as my P1 is STILL in the tuners (car went in august/2008 !!! )
ps....does not sound like yr gasket have gone ...maybe just the hose loose so just tighten it and drive carefully and keep an eye on the temp guage !!
#19
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also I've been with these guys since 2002 so I'm happy with them plus I have other transport to keep my mind of the P1 (M3 not as good a drive though I may add)
The tuner has actually offer me a new spec C for me to used while my car is with them which was good of them ....never took the offer up though.
Last edited by bighead; 07 February 2011 at 03:30 PM.
#20
There's the new ecutek racerom that Bob Rawle talks about here.
https://www.scoobynet.com/trader-ann...-race-rom.html
Thats what I was thinking about.
I got two different compression tests done wih a day of each other on my car from reputable tuners. One a Subaru specialist, one a performance specialist.
If someone could tell me what condition they think my engine is in would be a great help in deciding wether to get it rebuilt or not.
Compression test 1: (from Subaru specialist) they did say that this was intermittent!?! (didn't think that was possible)
No1 cylinder + 8 green, pass
No2 cylinder + 1 green, fail. (piston land broke)
No3 cylinder + 6 green, pass. (possible faulty piston aswell)
No4 cylinder + 1 green, fail. (piston land broke)
As they said it was intermittent I took it to another performance garage to get a second opinion.
Compression test 2:
Cylinder 1: 150 PSI. 20% leakage
Cylinder 2: 150 PSI. 45% leakage
Cylinder 3: 150 PSI. 40% leakage
Cylinder 4: 150 PSI. 40% leakage.
Anybody who can translate this into laymens terms and tell me how good/bad my engine is would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
https://www.scoobynet.com/trader-ann...-race-rom.html
Thats what I was thinking about.
I got two different compression tests done wih a day of each other on my car from reputable tuners. One a Subaru specialist, one a performance specialist.
If someone could tell me what condition they think my engine is in would be a great help in deciding wether to get it rebuilt or not.
Compression test 1: (from Subaru specialist) they did say that this was intermittent!?! (didn't think that was possible)
No1 cylinder + 8 green, pass
No2 cylinder + 1 green, fail. (piston land broke)
No3 cylinder + 6 green, pass. (possible faulty piston aswell)
No4 cylinder + 1 green, fail. (piston land broke)
As they said it was intermittent I took it to another performance garage to get a second opinion.
Compression test 2:
Cylinder 1: 150 PSI. 20% leakage
Cylinder 2: 150 PSI. 45% leakage
Cylinder 3: 150 PSI. 40% leakage
Cylinder 4: 150 PSI. 40% leakage.
Anybody who can translate this into laymens terms and tell me how good/bad my engine is would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
#22
its not the parts that holding mine up.......but when you go on the tunning route ,not everything is straight forward,as mine will be mega spec when completed .
also I've been with these guys since 2002 so I'm happy with them plus I have other transport to keep my mind of the P1 (M3 not as good a drive though I may add)
The tuner has actually offer me a new spec C for me to used while my car is with them which was good of them ....never took the offer up though.
also I've been with these guys since 2002 so I'm happy with them plus I have other transport to keep my mind of the P1 (M3 not as good a drive though I may add)
The tuner has actually offer me a new spec C for me to used while my car is with them which was good of them ....never took the offer up though.
#24
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excesive water presure is comon for head gasket issues mate.
but can also just be the rad cores clogged.
if the compresure test came back as presure loss then sounds more than likly head gaskets. another thing, did they use normal gaskets or metal layer type?
but can also just be the rad cores clogged.
if the compresure test came back as presure loss then sounds more than likly head gaskets. another thing, did they use normal gaskets or metal layer type?
#25
They used normal gaskets. It has been fine today but no doubt will pop on me properly soon.
I pray for a blocked radiator though from the last headgasket that went.
Those tests were done about 6000 miles ago. It's been fine since then (apart from the oil consumption)
I pray for a blocked radiator though from the last headgasket that went.
Those tests were done about 6000 miles ago. It's been fine since then (apart from the oil consumption)
#26
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Camshaft position sensor is common when nothing wrong on earlier models. You are probably best investing in a code reader available for around £60 and you can turn them
Off yourself. I can give u a link of a good one if needed.
Off yourself. I can give u a link of a good one if needed.
#27
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Camshaft position sensor is common when nothing wrong on earlier models. You are probably best investing in a code reader available for around £60 and you can turn them
Off yourself. I can give u a link of a good one if needed.
Off yourself. I can give u a link of a good one if needed.
#28
Thanks but to be honest I think I'll get the plx kiwi wifi.
I have an iPhone and you can get apps that can read and reset error codes and give out gauge readings on everything.
It can also work as a dyno, G reader and lap timer, aswell as loads of other things.
Apps are called dashcommand, revs, dynolicious.
You just plug it into your obd2 port and connect it to your phone.
Cheaper than gauges too with more options!
The warning light hasn't come on since the oil has been changed. Need to drive it more though to be sure!
Does anyone know if scooby clinic do the ecutek racerom yet?
Has anyone got a dual map and had an economy map put on? Seems like most people would want this the way petrol prices are heading! One for BHP one for MPG!
I have an iPhone and you can get apps that can read and reset error codes and give out gauge readings on everything.
It can also work as a dyno, G reader and lap timer, aswell as loads of other things.
Apps are called dashcommand, revs, dynolicious.
You just plug it into your obd2 port and connect it to your phone.
Cheaper than gauges too with more options!
The warning light hasn't come on since the oil has been changed. Need to drive it more though to be sure!
Does anyone know if scooby clinic do the ecutek racerom yet?
Has anyone got a dual map and had an economy map put on? Seems like most people would want this the way petrol prices are heading! One for BHP one for MPG!
Last edited by TheDuke; 08 February 2011 at 03:03 AM.
#29
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Surely the engine is warrantied?
Those test results and the expansion tank filled to the brim suggest poor control of detonation and the headgasket has gone.
The high oil use even after the rebuild suggests it wan't the best in the world.
Other than a head skim, what work was done on the bottom end to check and clean up the bores?
Presumably new (std) pistons and rings were used?
Is it still on the PPP map?
Those test results and the expansion tank filled to the brim suggest poor control of detonation and the headgasket has gone.
The high oil use even after the rebuild suggests it wan't the best in the world.
Other than a head skim, what work was done on the bottom end to check and clean up the bores?
Presumably new (std) pistons and rings were used?
Is it still on the PPP map?
#30
Nothing was done to the bottom end. He said he cleaned the top of the pistons!
It still has the PPP on it.
It was my local garage, I didn't know what I was doing as I had only had the car 6 weeks when it went. They said it would be £400 to fix. Came back at £1800. They charged me for camshaft sprockets and allsorts of unrelated crap. Just dropped my lad off at nursery for 8:30 and took it for a blast on the morning ice on the way back.
It goes so well. No heating problems, no high coolant in the overflow. I wouldn't mind getting the bottom end rebuilt, but I don't trust engine builders at all.
Might just buy a new short motor.
I could imagine they'll quote me for pistons, then say the cylinder Walls/crank are knackered. New remap and all that. So many people I know get a quote for their engine rebuild, then, when they have it in bits, double the price near enough!
Just from this thread I've had people telling me to stay away or go to certain builders and tuners. I've read up on them but get mixed reviews from everyone. Seems like more hassle to me.
If I bought a cosworth shortblock would it need to be remapped? If it was a straight swop for mine? Might get a bit for my engine then if I get it rebuilt, as most of the cost it seems is in the labour!
I know a lot about technology, computers, gadgets, recording studios and the likes but when it comes to mechanics I'm crap! It really pisses me of when I see people get ripped off with pcs and the like but the exact same thing is happening to me with engines.
It skinted me buying this car and it's just been nothing but a money pit since! Not good when it feels like you're playing Russian roulette whilst sitting on a landmine everytime you drive it!
Where have all the honest business's gone?
It still has the PPP on it.
It was my local garage, I didn't know what I was doing as I had only had the car 6 weeks when it went. They said it would be £400 to fix. Came back at £1800. They charged me for camshaft sprockets and allsorts of unrelated crap. Just dropped my lad off at nursery for 8:30 and took it for a blast on the morning ice on the way back.
It goes so well. No heating problems, no high coolant in the overflow. I wouldn't mind getting the bottom end rebuilt, but I don't trust engine builders at all.
Might just buy a new short motor.
I could imagine they'll quote me for pistons, then say the cylinder Walls/crank are knackered. New remap and all that. So many people I know get a quote for their engine rebuild, then, when they have it in bits, double the price near enough!
Just from this thread I've had people telling me to stay away or go to certain builders and tuners. I've read up on them but get mixed reviews from everyone. Seems like more hassle to me.
If I bought a cosworth shortblock would it need to be remapped? If it was a straight swop for mine? Might get a bit for my engine then if I get it rebuilt, as most of the cost it seems is in the labour!
I know a lot about technology, computers, gadgets, recording studios and the likes but when it comes to mechanics I'm crap! It really pisses me of when I see people get ripped off with pcs and the like but the exact same thing is happening to me with engines.
It skinted me buying this car and it's just been nothing but a money pit since! Not good when it feels like you're playing Russian roulette whilst sitting on a landmine everytime you drive it!
Where have all the honest business's gone?
Last edited by TheDuke; 08 February 2011 at 09:29 AM.
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