How hard is it changing wiring loom on 96 sti.
#1
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How hard is it changing wiring loom on 96 sti.
Im thinking about It as my loom is damaged somewhere on the circuit that is connected to the main fuse under the bonnet that is SBF No.2
Basically even when the ignition is off there is still power going to all the engine auxilaries. And have a current drain of 0.81.
Basically even when the ignition is off there is still power going to all the engine auxilaries. And have a current drain of 0.81.
#2
Can't comment on changing the engine loom but:
Are you sure the issue is not the ignition switch itself?
An hour or 2 with the wiring diagrams and a multimeter would likely be enough to isolate and rectify the problem.
Are you sure the issue is not the ignition switch itself?
An hour or 2 with the wiring diagrams and a multimeter would likely be enough to isolate and rectify the problem.
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How would i go about testing that very circuit? My electrical skills are fairly good but im no sparky lol.
Thanks for the help bud!
#4
The wiring diagram will show you which wire goes where and which colour it is. Although strangely enough the 1993-1996 wiring diagram I have does not have the audio and clock circuit which is what I would used as a starting point to troubeshoot this.
If you fail to trace the cause of the problem, you could always trace it to the one relay or fuse whose removal fixes the problem without turning off any other systems, and then fix a relay in place of it, with the relay receiving power when the switch is in the ACC position (you can check the wires from the switch and find out which ones get 12V when the switch is set to ACC).
If you fail to trace the cause of the problem, you could always trace it to the one relay or fuse whose removal fixes the problem without turning off any other systems, and then fix a relay in place of it, with the relay receiving power when the switch is in the ACC position (you can check the wires from the switch and find out which ones get 12V when the switch is set to ACC).
#5
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I had a similar problem recently when my battery drained overnight. The battery itself wasn't at fault. It seems there was a dead short across the terminals. Isolating the fault is easy enough. I just disconnected the battery and put a multimeter (set for resistance) across the cables. I then pulled out each fuse one by one until the short disappeared. In my case it was fuse SBF 1.
I was unlucky with the wiring diagram I downloaded. There are only two pages missing and just my luck its the pages I need. I've not fixed the problem, but at least I've isolated it. With the fuse removed I no longer have the central locking or electric windows working.
I was unlucky with the wiring diagram I downloaded. There are only two pages missing and just my luck its the pages I need. I've not fixed the problem, but at least I've isolated it. With the fuse removed I no longer have the central locking or electric windows working.
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The wiring diagram will show you which wire goes where and which colour it is. Although strangely enough the 1993-1996 wiring diagram I have does not have the audio and clock circuit which is what I would used as a starting point to troubeshoot this.
If you fail to trace the cause of the problem, you could always trace it to the one relay or fuse whose removal fixes the problem without turning off any other systems, and then fix a relay in place of it, with the relay receiving power when the switch is in the ACC position (you can check the wires from the switch and find out which ones get 12V when the switch is set to ACC).
If you fail to trace the cause of the problem, you could always trace it to the one relay or fuse whose removal fixes the problem without turning off any other systems, and then fix a relay in place of it, with the relay receiving power when the switch is in the ACC position (you can check the wires from the switch and find out which ones get 12V when the switch is set to ACC).
Thanks again
#7
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I had a similar problem recently when my battery drained overnight. The battery itself wasn't at fault. It seems there was a dead short across the terminals. Isolating the fault is easy enough. I just disconnected the battery and put a multimeter (set for resistance) across the cables. I then pulled out each fuse one by one until the short disappeared. In my case it was fuse SBF 1.
I was unlucky with the wiring diagram I downloaded. There are only two pages missing and just my luck its the pages I need. I've not fixed the problem, but at least I've isolated it. With the fuse removed I no longer have the central locking or electric windows working.
I was unlucky with the wiring diagram I downloaded. There are only two pages missing and just my luck its the pages I need. I've not fixed the problem, but at least I've isolated it. With the fuse removed I no longer have the central locking or electric windows working.
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