Pedroturbo

Hiya,
i have a uk turbo 1996 impreza and after being parked up for 3 days i came to start it when before the engine started the radiator fan and CEL light is came on as soon as i turnd the key.

Anyone wanna take a guess before i get the fault code reader on it?

many thanx

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

I'd get the code reader on it..... Unless you're a fan of Russian Roulette.

scooby800

iTrader: (1)

just incase you dont have this m8


Most cars simply store fault codes and thats it. Subarus on the other hand have 2 modes. You can read the stored fault codes or you can check them while the car is driven. This is useful if you have a fault code that only appears when you drive and doesn't hang about long enough to be stored.
Reading and clearing the codes themselves is pretty easy. This method should work on all Pre 1999 Subarus with proper ECUs (so if you have a 1978 Brat pick up you don't need to read any more!) After 1999 Subaru began using the EOBD system on their UK cars. I am not 100% sure if the imports after 1999 can still be read like this. No harm in trying I suppose!
How to read the stored codes. Do this before you try the dynamic method.
1. Turn the ignition off
2. Find the diagnostic connectors. They are usually under the dash on the drivers side near the centre console. There should be a pair of black connectors (1), a pair of green (2)and a big yellow one (3 We don't need to worry about that!). You are looking for the black pair.
3. Connect the black connectors together.
4. Turn the ignition on but don't start it.
5. Check the engine management light comes on. If it doesn't some snake in the grass has disconnected it! This happens because people are scared of having to take the car to the dealer to have it fixed!
6. Count the number of flashes. Long flashes count for 10 and short ones are single units. So the code 38 would be 3 long flashes then 8 quick ones.
7. If it just flashes long flashes continually there are no codes stored.
8. Anyway, count the flashes and check against the list below.
9. Turn the ignition back off then disconnect the black connectors. If you mess things up just disconnect the black connectors and start again.


Fault codes
1111 No codes stored
11 Crankshaft position sensor (Don't confuse with above, usually when the crankshaft sensor if dodgy the thing won't start anyway)
12 Starter switch faulty
13 Camshaft position sensor
14 Injector no.1
15 Injector no.2
16 Injector no.3
17 Injector (You guessed it!) No.4
21 Engine temp sensor
22 Knock sensor
23 Mass air flow sensor
24 Idle air control sensor (usually accompanied by running too fast/slow)
31 Throttle position sensor
32 O2 sensor
33 Vehicle speed sensor
35 Emissions canister purge valve
38 Torque control signal (Automatics)
42 Closed throttle position
44 Turbo wastegate regulator malfunction
45 MAP sensor
49 CO adjustment resistor for older cars not fitted with cats
51 Neutral switch (Manual gearbox)

Remember just because the fault code states a component it does not automatically mean that part is knackered. ALWAYS check the wiring, connectors and battery terminals etc. before galloping down to the dealer with your wallet flapping!

Dynamic mode
1. Get the engine to operating temperature, when the cooling fans have just switched off.
2. Turn the car and ignition off.
3. Connect the green conectors this time (No.2 in the picture)
4. Switch the ignition on but don't fire it up or it won't work!
5. Check the management light is on. If it is you can start it up.
6. If the light doesn't flash drive the car above 10mph for about a minute, no less than 30 seconds.
7. Stop driving and rev the car up to 2000rpm for at least a minute (this is great when you have an Impreza Turbo with a big exhaust!)
8. Count the flashes on the management light. Remember a long flash is 10 and a quick flash is 1.
9. Compare the code to the list above.
10. Turn the ignition off and disconnect the green connectors.
11. Thats you!
How to clear them!
1. Make sure the engine is up to normal temperature (the cooling fans have just turned off)
2. Turn the ignition off
3. Connect the green connectors together
4. and connect the black ones together too
5. Switch the ignition on but don't start it.
6. Check the management light is on.
7. Drive the car for about a minute above 10mph
8. Stop and rev the car to at least 2000 revs for at least a minute
9. Check the light flashes 4 long flashes (Indicating fault code 1111)
10. Switch the ignition off and disconnect the green and black plugs
11. Thats you! Easy wasn't it?

bengo

iTrader: (17)

Are the diagnostic plugs connected?

Pedroturbo

Scooby800 u legend! U are the scooby bible. Just one thing im unsure on. Is the check engine light that flashes? Which ones the engine management light? I will be home in an hour so i will put ur instructions to the test.

Pedroturbo

thanks for the very good instructions...... but now the bad news.
45 MAP sensor (what the yuck is this?)
21 Engine temp sensor (could explain the fan coming on)
32 Oxygen sensor (not present on my exaust)

all in all not good! what does a MAP sensor do?

Again thank you all very much

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Do a full ECU reset as per here or here.

The codes you are seeing may well be old stored codes. Resetting will clear the historic codes and re-present any current/relevant faults.


It is your Mass Air Pressure sensor. But 45 can be any one of 3 sensors MAP, BCS or PES.

Yes indeed it could explain that. Could also give you a rough running engine

Why are you not running a Lambda Sensor???

Controls the boost, along with the other sensors i mentioned above.

Pedroturbo

Thanks lads I will do a reset 2moro when there is light.
Is there a way of knowing which sensor could be at fault (MAP,BCS,PES) ??
Engine is runnin dog ruff with no power and struggles to start.

When i first got the car it had full decat system. all very well and sounded great but just too loud. so i bought fujitsubo giken exhaust system with the cats but the lambda sensor is tiny on the new exhaust and has different plug on the cable which also has less wires. So i havent yet come up with a solution to this.

It has been fine though till this.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

It's usually a process of elimination where those 3 are concerned.

That sounds more like the Cat On Fire, or Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor. Check the driver side header, the Lambda is some times located there.
If you do not have a Lambda fitted, you need to fit one ASAP, as without you will have shytty running due to incorrect fueling.
There should be a cable and plug around the air-box area that the ETG plugs into.
Post back tomorrow after you have performed the rest.

Pedroturbo

hey to all,
Right i have reset and the 3 same codes remain.
In the picture below which is the MAP sensor?
Is the tempreture sensor under the alternator next to the Crank sensor?

Thanx lads

Pedroturbo

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Is that a Apexi boost controller, why is that fitted??

It looks to have a pipe disconnected, that could be your problem.

Here is a diagram of the sensors:



I'll ask again, why have you not got a Lambda fitted??

Pedroturbo

The Maverick who owned it before me installed the apexi boost controller.
The pipe missing has always been missing lol
The new downpipe doesnt have the hole for the lambda sensor. Y?
lol wish u could have a look at this car you would probably **** yaself laughing but sadly I have to fix the victim of someone elses abuse as usual !!!
thanks for all ur help tho mate

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

I have no experience with them so cannot really comment, exept to say, i would expect it to be fully connected up to operate properly.
You could re-plumb the OE BCS as per the pic i posted, but as i said...

Have a look at the drivers side header. There could/should be a boss/sensor fitted in there. Assuming maverick hasn't removed it.

Yeah it would be nice to get hands on but not always possible eh.

No probs mate, keep it coming.

Pedroturbo

Hey folks all the best for the new year to you all!

I have put new coolant and water and flushed the cooling system through.
This has stopped the fan from immediately switchin on.
I reset the codes and re read them. the tempreture sensor is no longer flagging up however the lambda sensor is still not plugged up so that has re appeared and a code 43 has appeared??? there is no 43 !?!?!?
why is this devil car tryin to stress me out till my ballocks explode???

Lol Maverick if your out there im gona slap you about with my dick !

Pedroturbo

oh forgot to mention i have replumbed the boost solenoid as per your picture b13bat. and put the standard DV on instead of a nasty Hks one that maverick installed. This has made a difference but is still no where near correct under the right foot.

Cheers lads

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Subaru code 43 would be the throttle switch. But the question is, is it relevant to the Impreza???



Top job. That eliminates so many variables from the situation.

Can you hear/feel the OE BCS clicking under light throttle??

I wouldn't expect it to be correct as,
The Lambda/fueling, imo is your next job.

Did you check the o/s header for a boss location??

Pedroturbo

There is a stubby sausage finger pointing up (24 mm) lol on the drivers side manifold just before the up pipe but this is moulded as one with the manifold.

Pedroturbo

i cant hear the bcs under light throttle but when both green plugs and black plugs were connected i could hear it clicking before the engine was started and the fan would come on for 2 secs then off then back on for 2secs and so on...

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

That is your Lambda. A good dowsing with WD40 and a good quality ringer or long socket should see it move.

Sounds to be good then. Just that they can seize up if not used for a while.

Pedroturbo

check out my mint picture.... The red one is where the sensor was on the old decat pipe.
The new one has the tiny sensor where the blue one is. I have looked all over the exhaust system and there is no where for the lambda to go.

Pedroturbo

yer i no what the lambda is lol but the finger is isnt a lambda sensor it is just a moulding as if it wasnt machined to take the lambda there in the first place. im thinkin if i cut this away and weld a nut of the correct size onto the hole that would be left behind it could do the do.

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Kind of off topic but still relevant,my lambda sensor is in my headers on my 95 wrx,if you have a sump guard/chassis guard underneath,you may not be able to see it

Edit,i see you found it from your post above, doh LOL

My sports cat has the same option,but i screwed a small threaded bolt into it (as the sports cat is for 93-00 etc )

That blue one you refer to is the CAT on fire snesor i think,your diagram isnt the best Ha ha LOL

Pedroturbo

perhaps i have the wrong down pipe on the car????

Pedroturbo

lol cheers for all your help lads im startin to feel like a retard now lol.

im gonna pop outside and have another look but i must have spent over an hour studying this exhaust in its natural habitat now lol

Pedroturbo

I WANT MY RS TURBO BACK

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

What did you discover in your 'new' natural habitat????

Pedroturbo

not alot mate i might pull the exhaust off and put the old one back on lol ill be deaf but at least the car will be happier !!!!

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Are you talking down pipe??

If so it is not a big or an expensive job to have a lambda boss fitted.