Hi guys, thought I would say hello as a newbie and ask for some help at the same time! Car is a MY99 2000 Turbo wagon and it stutters like mad when accelerating harder. Light driving seems mostly fine but as soon as you press the pedal a bit harder and it starts to boost a bit, it is really bad. The boost solenoid was cleaned ( Admittedly I don't know how well! ) so don't think it's related to that plus have removed the K&N and put the air box back on but it's still doing it. When up at speeds 60 - 70 there is the feeling of power loss and trying to speed up results in violent shudders amd no acceleration. I think the MAF sensor has been changed but I'm not sure how long ago. Someone suggested a build up of water / condensation in the fuel tank as the car sat for a month or 2 with little or no fuel in the tank but I'm not convinced....Any suggestions much appreciated Cheers, Graeme

 

I had these symptoms... but only after mods/remap (inc. the std airbox replaced with a naked cone).

It had been left parked up for 2-3 days in heavy rain. It only happened on a just-warmed-up engine, first thing in the morning... I put it down to the cone filter prob being covered in heavy condensation (hope so anyway), as it cleared after a further few minutes of driving. And hasn't done it since.... and never done it pre-mods!

Yours could be anything - did it happen in really wet weather? Was the engine fully warmed up? Try liberally squirting WD40 over all the HT components, first...

 

It's not been wet every time although we have had a shed load of snow up here! The engine has been well and truly warmed every time it has happened. Just seems to be when it tries to boost that it starts. The first time it happened the check engine light came on. 2 codes came up, something like turbo boost control and lambda sensor. The light has never come bqack on despite the symptoms being there every time I take the car out. Will give the WD40 a shot! May meed to get it looked at as it's driving me mad!!

 

Yeah, forgot to mention mine also only happened when trying to make the car boost by accelerating (was okay on constant throttle).

It could well be somethng to do with the BC system and/or lambda, as the codes show(?). If it doesn't clear, then best take to a specialist (these are the hardest symptoms to try to diagnose! )

 

Heh heh...sods law! Cheers for your input anyway

 

Its not the clutch is it? Its hard to diagnose with what you say. Im not sure what 'shuttering' is?

Also check all your vacum hoses for leaks/splits.

 

It's definately not the clutch, I will have a wee look at the hoses though By stuttering I simply mean, it is not pulling/ boosting properly. It shakes and judders as it tries to accelerate. It is not easy to explain I'm afraid!

 

Turned out to be the Maf... Typical....what a difference though!! Only thing is the idling is pretty rough since the new Maf went in. At least the main issue is fixed thankfully. Any idea's on why the idling would be worse with a working Maf than with a knackered one? Makes no sense?!

 

Did you mess around with the ISCV when trying to diagnose?

Anyway, first try to do an ECU reset to get rid of any 'badly learnt' timing.

Regardless, it should clear up pretty soonish...

 

Nope ISCV wasn't touched...as soon as the new Maf was in it went from being fine idling to pants I'm gonna reset the ecu this morning so hopefully that should help!

 

Report back with your findings...

 

I will do. Quick question, is disconnecting the battery for half an hour an effective re-set method or is it better to go through the proceeedure with the diagnostic plugs?

 

Best to do it wth the plugs.

If not, then I'd disconnect batt. for at least an hour, so as to be certain the capacitors have fully drained.

 

Well, did the plug routine to the letter but almost as soon as I drove off, the CEL was flashing. It was a constant flash though. Tried it twice with the same thing so, unsure as to whether it had worked or not, I unplugged the battery completely for about 3 - 4 hours! Have read a few things here and there about a tie up between Maf cleaning / replacement and rough idle.......so could just be the ecu needs time to re-learn. Will be out for a run at some point tomorrow so will let you know how it goes!

 

When you connect the plugs to check for the codes (it's the black ones for fault code finding), the flashing should happen then -- you don't leave them connected and drive off! But if the CEL was flashing constantly as 0.5s on/off pulses, then no logged faults anyway.

You should then have connected BOTH coloured plugs to do the reset via the plugs:-

ECU reset

 

I see To be honest , that tutorial does not read that way!! Read it yourself and you'll see it says connect black to black and green to green..then throttle positions etyc then drive...then disconnect! If that's wrong then I think I've gone mad!!

 

Yeah, but that's for the ECU RESET procedure (read the heading)... And not fault code finding (as your anecdotal description suggests)...

But seeing as you got the constant flash, looks like it was reset and no fault codes logged anyway.


To be totally clear, here are the two separate procedures:-

Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)

Classic (JECS) ECU Reset

 

At least I got there in the end! Well, had the car out for a run tonight and it seems much improved Sitting around the 700 marker and pretty smooth too. Hopefully the reset had a positive effect on it! I'm just glad to have it running properly so I can at least start to enjoy it....Cheers for all the help....no doubt I'll be needing more soon!

 

As the car continues learning and gets used to the Lambda cycle, it should smooth out nicely, in short order...

 

Excellent! Cheers again for your help on this....much appreciated Next thing to sort is the windscreen washers ain't working! I'll hopefully be able to find the problem soon as driving in this weather with no scoosh is not ideal!

 

Prob just a plug of ice or something.

Disconnect at the pump and see if water shoots out of the pump directly. If so, then check each section, by systematically adding them to the system.

If pump/all pipes/unions pass water at high pressure, then it must be the little holes in the jet heads that are iced up/have grit in etc. Time to get out a red hot sewing needle held in pliars lol...

 

Lol!...it may come to that yet! I had thought about ice but still nothing happening even with the temp above zero....couldn't hear any pump noise so will give disconnecting it a try and see what happens

 

sounds silly but you are pressing right at the end of the stalk not just pulling the mist stalk back! its been done before!

 

Oh for f**ks sake!.......how bloody embarrassing!.......yes as you may have guessed, I'm a complete ****....was indeed pulling the stalk instead of pushing the button! In my defence, I've never owned a Jap car before but still....

 

no probs we here to help! least its another problem of your list to check off and prevents an hour of stripping parts down for no reason!

 

You said it!
Cheers!!

 

Ha ha! I did exactly the same when I first had my previous 1993 WRX back in September 2006! I was so miffed that I couldn't make it work, I rang the dealer that sold it, and he said that it was working fine, prior to PDI-ing it for sale. I then realised you had to push it in, later that day!!! lol

I'm sorry I overlooked that scenario sirsnortalot - but well done to willsy for remembering it!.

 

Must admit, I do feel a bit better knowing I'm not the only one that's done that! Every car I can ever remember has been a 'pull towards you' job!! No bother joz....4 years is a long time to remember something like that Thanks again guys...I'm looking forward to the steep learning curve thats approaching

 

Yep, I don't think I've ever owned a car where you push in the very end of the stalk for front washers... Until the Impreza came along.