sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys.

some help is needed on my new engine build, i have purchased (very very very cheap) a complete engine from an import wrx 96. i plan on rebuilding the block with forged internals etc myself and putting back into my car.
my car is a 97/98 uk turbo 2000.
donor engine code: EJ20GDW6NE
donor model: GF8D58D
my cars engine code: EJ205NW1KD
My cars model: GF8GK8D

my main questions are am i likely to have any integration issues between the two? the only difference i have noticed so far it the ICV location.
i have already stripped the block completely down, and am yet to split the block.
i have searched and found out that i may have to use my own heads, what are the complications with this?

i have not decided 100% on what the build spec is going to be, if i could have any guidance it'd be much appreciated.

Tom

Alan Jeffery

The simplest solution is to use the heads and all the running gear from your original engine. The blocks will interchange. Bear in mind there's more to building an Impreza engine than just bolting it together! We always spend time ensuring the machined surfaces are perfect, along with setting correct CR etc.

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Hey alan. Thanks for replying. That was he information I was after was with regards too maintaining the same compression ratio aswell as knowing if my heads and inlet would run fine on the new block. I intend too stroke thr engine aswell so any further guidance would be much appreciated.

Also I will end up replacig ecu, but my question is would the engine run on my uk ecu with the import block?

Cheers

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

Good to see you doing all the prep work of finding things out before starting lol, this will prove to be an informative thread as it goes on i think. Your ecu cant be mapped so you will need to go aftermarket ecu if your using a stroker kit etc

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Ok I gathered that, any advice on what is thr best ecu for my year of car and used with. Stroker kit?
I intend too also fit at the same time ported headers or tubulars.

Does anybody know what thickness head gasket I would need to correct compression ratio?

Many thanks

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

An further guidance much appreciated.....

classicgc8

iTrader: (4)

are you a member of our site mate http://www.bbscoobys.co.uk/

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

No not bud, you recommend it? Any advice? Splitpin?

classicgc8

iTrader: (4)

pm sent bud

Alan Jeffery

As long as you use all the kit from your original engine, changing the block won't cause a problem to your management, assuming everything's working properly!
If you want to stroke it, that changes everything of course!
The extra swept volume has to be allowed for in the mapping, and the CR will need to be calculated and adapted by trial assembling the engine, then carrying out the correct machining.
In my view, this sort of work is not within the grasp of most home builders, which is why we offer a built short block as being the best way forward.

sonic93

iTrader: (16)

alan how much do u charge to build a short block and send my block to u and u fit 1 of your 2.1 kits? cheers rob

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

So if I changed thr internals too just forged pistons and rods but didn't stroke it, then would there not be any need for altered
Thickness of head gaskets? And also it would run on ecu?
The main reason why I decided too build thr block up myself was too save costs and too gain a further understanding of thr ej20 block.
So if it would save a lot of faffing about by just updating the internals and not stroking the engine, that would be a fair more appealing option.
With just uprated internals what sort of power output will I be limited upto?
Many thanks for help!

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Bttt for weekday advice :-D

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

unless going for daft power uprated internals without stroker kit should surfice. although Alan J should confirm what power your good for etc

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

yeah cool, i just hope that im not taking a backwards step rebuilding an EJ20G rather than my current EJ205.....?
i was under the impression that the EJ20G import engine is higher powered as standard than the uk 2000?

what forged pistons would you reccomend?

Splitpin

I've only skimmed the thread, but if your intention is to rebuild a complete EJ20G engine and refit it into a car designed to run an EJ205, you are going to cause yourself a major headache.

As has I think been said, you will need to fit your newer heads onto the older block. In which case, the obvious thing to do would have been to not buy the old engine and rebuild what you already have instead. Was there a reason why you didn't go that route?

If you do fit your newer heads, you'll have to do some work calculating the compression ratio and choosing the correct gaskets, but you'd potentially have been doing that if you'd rebuilt the EJ205 in its entirety.

They may run more power as standard, but that's a function of turbo/mapping more than anything else. If your original thinking was that the older engine somehow makes an inherently "better" base for a forged build than the standard engine in your car, that doesn't really hold true.

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

cheers splitpin
the reason why i purchased the engine was because my car is my daily driver so dont really fancy pulling engine out!

my intentions are to rebuild the EJ20G short-block with forged pistons etc... and then put (as advised) EJ205 heads and inlet manifold on.
i was originally planning on stroking the block, however as i have been advised above this is a tricky option for a "home-engine builder" to do, i shall just uprate the internals too allow more aggressive map and too accomodate turbo alterations...

Am i unable to use a standard thickness head gasket this way?

what would your personal recomendation be in my predicament?

many thanks splitpin aka the guru!

Splitpin

I think I see where you're coming from here, but you're obviously going to be into some downtime to remove the EJ205 and take the heads off prior to fitting to the rebuilt block and putting it all back together.

If you are going to re-use those heads it would also be well worth overhauling them too - including tidying up the valve seats as and where necessary and rechecking the clearances. All of that is going to take you some time to do properly, especially given that you'll be learning on the job and will probably need to order parts as you go.

Having the short block rebuilt and ready to fit will obviously save you some time over taking the one engine out and putting it back, but IMO you're making a mistake trying to approach a job this complicated and potentially costly on this basis. Doing the job with an underlying consideration to reduce off the road time will introduce a lot of time pressure you'd much rather be without when you're sat there surrounded by pieces of engine.

Not sure that follows. If you are going to rebuild the engine properly for new pistons, you will need to get the bores honed (to fit). If you're going to those lengths, it doesn't make a huge amount of difference whether you're fitting a 75mm crank or a 79mm one.

I suppose the other way of looking at what you've been told is that if the small print involved in a tidy long stroke build is going to be a bit "tricky", then are you confident that you'll be able to do a standard displacement build to the right standards? Not knocking you - but, at the same time - it's much better to work within the time and equipment you have available than overstretch and end up with a frown.

Alan J knows a lot more about this particular subject than me and he has already given you a more than usable answer here. Given that you propose to mix the -G block and -5 heads and also propose to use forged pistons, you will need to calculate the compression ratio once you get the bits and pick a gasket to suit.

Tricky one to answer that. Probably the best recommendation I could give you at the moment would be to take the time to learn a lot more about this subject before you move forward as on the face of it, it doesn't entirely sound as though you fully understand what you need to do to get value for money from your investment (in both time and money) here.

If you take too many shortcuts on this job, or as above, work too far beyond your comfort zone, the risk is that you will end up with a final engine that performs disappointingly and/or unreliably.

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

splitpin many thanks for your input!

i have the engine on an engine stand already stripped down too the block with pistons and crank still inside. all of this is set up in a workshop. so i have more than enough access too the requiered tools etc.

i am going too source a second hand set of heads and inlet manifold so that the engine can be completely built up and ready to be dropped in alongside new ecu. the plan ideally was too have engine, heads, inlet, exhaust manifold (tubular or ported?) and uprated turbo, new clutch+lightened flywheel all assembled and ready too be dropped in.
the reason for this route was that i was aiming too do it over the coming couple of months.

now you are steering me back towards stroking the engine, however down the stroked route what extra work is requiered alongside honing the bores?

also do you deem the EJ20G block inferior to the EJ205 in any way?

many thanks for your detailed input!

Splitpin

I'm not sure I'd bother with another inlet manifold. Given that it's no more than a few minutes work to swap it over from one long engine to another it's an easily avoidable expense, although if you're planning on flogging the old unit off complete unit it might have some advantages. Obviously if you're going to get a second pair of heads you need phase 2 ones. STi 5/6/P1 would be better than UK if you can find a tidy set.

And, "new ECU". Are you buying one because you want to or because you think you have to? 99-00 unit is Ecutek mappable so unless you're going Simtek/Solaris etc there's no reason why you wouldn't stick with what you have.

Pass as far as the latter goes - as above there are others around who know far more than me, especially re. the older ones as my experience doesn't go that far back, with road spec engines at least. As above if you're building the engine properly it doesn't make a huge amount of difference whether you're including a standard or longer stroke crank.

Alan Jeffery

Hi Rob

Current price is £2250 including vat.
That's for your original block fully stripped and chemically cleaned, bored to the first oversize. We hone to fit Wiseco pistons, and set the ring gaps. We fit K1 forged rods with a new 2.5 crank. We use ACL Race bearings. The assembly is balanced. We deck the block surface. We assemble the block, trial assembling as required for CR check, calculating the gasket thickness and/or head machining.
We paint the block silver and wrap for delivery.
We can arrange collection and delivery if required.

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys,

quick update and extra advice requiered!

I've sourced most of the parts which i intend to install into the block itself i intend to install forged rods, pistons etc, however the engine block which i am using had a spun bearing in cylinder 3.
i know that there have been many disputes (thanks too the search) about crank regrinding, but it appears that there doesnt seem to be too much wear on the crank so i was after the tolerences which are allowed so that i can let my machinist know so that we can measure and see if we can get away with regrinding, if not what crank would you guys recommend to go for.

another subject i have been wondering is will i come over any wiring loom problems when i attach my heads (uk 98/99) onto the block (97) am i able to use the loom that came with the block or am i going to have to use my current loom on my uk car.

Many thanks for all help

KLR16V

iTrader: (2)

The big issue with regrinding a Subaru crank (besides the depth of hardening) is being able to clean the oil ways out afterwards. The ends of each drilled oil way are blocked off with a peened in ball bearings and it is nigh on impossible to be sure that you have removed all of the swarf that gets trapped in them without removing the ball bearings by spark errosion...which means the whole re-grind job costs almost as much as a new crank!

Do it once do it right .

Mark

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Many thanks for that, looks like new crank or second hand mint crank!

Does anyone have any input re wiring etc as mentioned above as that's what is causing the biggest headache at the mo.

Cheers

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Bttt for some evening advice from be pros!!!!

Tom

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Anybody with help on engine loom?
Cheers

sonic93

iTrader: (16)

thanks alan only just see u wrote back.would i need mappin again afterwards..How long does it normally take to complete the build mate?

JAutos

iTrader: (5)

Spark errosion cost me £30 other day, is that decent price on a caliper bleed nipple

f4la k

iTrader: (1)

Thats the whole idea of using the original heads to save ar$eing about with the loom, there is no wiring to the block. If you try to fit other newer heads the bolt pattern is diffrent along with inlet manifold pattern.Just build the short motor and fit your original heads and inlet manifold and everything should be straightforward..

sp00ks

iTrader: (11)

Cheers chap, I'm currently trying to get some sti v5 heads and a matching inlet manifold so engine is completely built ready to drop in.

What are the benefits of sti v5 heads over uk turbo 2000 ones?

Cheers