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Old 09 November 2010, 01:08 PM
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mikey2
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Default ECU identification

Hi, i need help identifying my ecu.
On the cover it says its a 1c, or IC, whichever, but that indicates its a Wagon ecu, which in a WRX with normal WRX setup cant be right, or if it is, not very good.
What niggles is the fact the ecu cover also states its running an esl board, but its not, it has some kinda FCD, but nothing more.
Now i want to change the turbo to a TD04, i know its kinda a backwards step, but i am not gonna spend the money to get this car running silly power and an all singing and dancing monster, i just want something thats not laggy like the td05.
Problem is, i shouldnt run a td04 on a wrx ecu, and likewise the td05 on the wagon ecu, so i need to identify the ecu by means of whats on the board, not the cover, does anyone have any ideas??

i know what i have been told, but i have 1 of one and 1 of the other, CAN i run a td04 on a wrx ecu if thats what it is, and if i run the td04 on the wagon ecu, whtas the max boost without getting an esl or similar??
Like i said, the cars not worth much, i bought it as a cheap run about till i can afford something a bit newer and better!!

Cheers




Last edited by mikey2; 09 November 2010 at 01:11 PM. Reason: add pics
Old 09 November 2010, 01:33 PM
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witchamptonscoobie
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what wagon have you got, i have 98 import wagon and td04s are standard on all non sti wagons my ecu say b8 on it as far as i can remeber hope this helps somehow
Old 09 November 2010, 01:59 PM
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myblackwrx
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ECU Code 1C, 3B, V9 : 10.5spi (peak) dropping to 6.8psi

93-96 JDM wagon ecu

So what actual impreza do you have?

Last edited by myblackwrx; 09 November 2010 at 02:01 PM.
Old 09 November 2010, 02:27 PM
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Glowplug
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The first thing you need to do is tell us which car you have, MY, Model and any mods.
Then you need to identify the turbo, TD04 or TD05 or some other. TD's are pretty easy to i/d, look down at the base, you should see it stamped in the cast.

Some one may of relpaced the turbo, or even the whole engine for that matter. So untill you give us the required information, we are as stuck as you.

I don't know of any way to easily i/d an ECU from the inside.

Last edited by Glowplug; 09 November 2010 at 02:28 PM.
Old 09 November 2010, 06:59 PM
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mikey2
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its a my93 wrx, it is in the first post!!! not the 93 bit though, my bad.
The turbo is deffo a td05, the guy told me it was a hybrid, but i think they might have made a mistake and put a td05 compressor on a td05 turbine, either that or hes a lying ........ you get the idea, hes a liar anyway. i cant id the ecu myself, the pics are what i have, and i know the cover is a 1c, which is a wagon ecu, but then it has a td05, so cant be right, unless the ecu is not a 1c and he has just shoved a 1c cover on it because it has the stuff about the esl written on it, hoping i wouldnt open it up infront of him,which i didnt!!
He did say something about an engine swap from a wagon, and there is also a receipt for a td05, so my guess is that its a wagon engine, with a td05 stuck on, but that only hints at the ecu being a wagon one, i need to know for sure.
Old 09 November 2010, 09:32 PM
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myblackwrx
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Remove that black box carefully and if it is definately a TD05 then get a proper wrx ecu (U8,2C,W6 or Z4 ,the Z4 would be your best bet).

If you have a good local subaru specialist take it to them to see what they say.
Old 09 November 2010, 09:54 PM
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see, thats what i want to check, i want to know what THIS one is.
the black box is just an FCD, it intersects the pressure sensor pins on the ecu.
Its definately a td05, the td05 written on the compressor confirms it!!!
Old 09 November 2010, 10:33 PM
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Take it to a rolling road (remove the FCD) and see what boost etc you get,we can't tell by your pictures as all the early ecus look something like that sorry.
Old 09 November 2010, 11:25 PM
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the pictures are cr*p i know, sorry. boost wise, its running an ebc, so its not controlling its own boost anyway. i fitted the ebc because i was under the impression it was running an esl mapped to 1.1 bar.
The guy who sold it said he had taken the MBC off it and it was running from compressor to actuator, because he didnt 'believe' it was supposed to be running 1.1 bar. To be fair, though, he is a tool, i have corrected far far too many simple mistakes he has made whilst trying to 'fix' the car, the really worrying part of that is that he owns and runs a garage specialising in performance cars, like lotus esprit v8 twin turbos.
Dunno about you, makes me shudder at the thought!!
Old 10 November 2010, 12:12 AM
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Nothing wrong with the piccies e.g

Z4 (plastic socket not standard)



U8



As you can see quite difficult to tell the difference

Seems to mke he's tried to fix it on the cheap.
Old 10 November 2010, 10:57 AM
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hes deffo tried to fix it on the cheap, for example....
i got the car, no problems, left it over night and battery was flat, checked the drain, 1.5 amps with everything off!!! turns out the lambda heater had gone short and was killing the power to the idle air valve etc, killed that whole curcuit, so instead of trying to find the problem he took a feed direct from the battery and jacked it into the engine loom so the sensors worked!!!!
ended up killing the main relay.
thats the kinda thing i am dealing with, thats why i dont trust the ecu.


Its definately not the Z4, the pic you have put up has 3 capacitors (i think, the upright cyclinders) on the left of the pic, mine has 4. i noticed the numbers on the chip on the right are different, i need to see more ecus to see if thats a way of ID'ing them.

Last edited by mikey2; 10 November 2010 at 11:10 AM.
Old 10 November 2010, 12:18 PM
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ok, i have the ecu in my hand, i have the black box off the chip, the numbers on the chip which appear to be different between ecus, could be the key for an ID, if anyone does have a genuine 1C ecu from their wagon, could they please have a look or post a pic of the chips on the board.
My numbers are A19-257 025, 413102, thats on the chip on the far right.

I have googled as much as i can and cannot find ANY info on it at all!!! ta
Old 10 November 2010, 12:23 PM
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Here's a U8. Different chip numbers.

Name:  photo.jpg
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Size:  125.6 KB[/COLOR][/I][/B]

And this is an SC. With factory chip.

Name:  V2555STiWagon.jpg
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Size:  99.4 KB

Edit: Just done a quick search, and it seems this ECU (D18) may be a Z5 with the STi chip, which is basically a Z4 map. Not a SC as i previously thought. But with the chip fitted it makes no difference.


Z5
UNISIA JECS CORPORATION
22611 AC131
A18-000-D18 5470

Last edited by Glowplug; 10 November 2010 at 03:00 PM.
Old 10 November 2010, 01:28 PM
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oh great. ta
Old 10 November 2010, 01:36 PM
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Sprint Chief
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While people sometimes swap ECU lids and end up with the wrong lid on the ECU, they very rarely change the little blue sticker that sits on the yellow 4-plug connector.

The blue sticker should tie in with the number on the front of the ECU. For example, the U8 b13bat shows has the number "000 RJ2" on the blue label.

On the front of the ECU, just under the ECU identifier, is a part number. This will be of the form A18-xxx-xxx. This part number corresponds to the blue label on the connector. In this example, the U8 ECU will have part number A18-000-RJ2.

If the blue label matches the part number on the 1C lid, then you probably have a 1C ECU.
Old 10 November 2010, 02:11 PM
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ok, i have a blue sticker 000 RY6

And the cover number is a18-000 ry6.

Its a wagon ecu!!! thank you very much, great info.

Luckily, i have a TD04 coming, a nice shiney up pipe, gonna be busy!!!!
Whats the standard power on the wagon?
i got a decat, front mount, K+N filter, exhaust, and EBC, so can set boost at whatever.

thanks

Last edited by mikey2; 10 November 2010 at 02:17 PM.
Old 10 November 2010, 02:19 PM
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Or, or, if i sell the td04, and get a z4 or z5 ecu, will the lag be sufficiently low that it will be comparable to running the td04 at 1bar??
Old 10 November 2010, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Sprint Chief
While people sometimes swap ECU lids and end up with the wrong lid on the ECU, they very rarely change the little blue sticker that sits on the yellow 4-plug connector.

The blue sticker should tie in with the number on the front of the ECU. For example, the U8 b13bat shows has the number "000 RJ2" on the blue label.

On the front of the ECU, just under the ECU identifier, is a part number. This will be of the form A18-xxx-xxx. This part number corresponds to the blue label on the connector. In this example, the U8 ECU will have part number A18-000-RJ2.

If the blue label matches the part number on the 1C lid, then you probably have a 1C ECU.
How very interesting

Mikey2
Standard power is 220ps the only way to to tell the power with your mods is to put it on a rolling road.

Last edited by myblackwrx; 10 November 2010 at 03:55 PM.
Old 10 November 2010, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by myblackwrx
How very interesting

Mikey2
Standard power is 220ps the only way to to tell the power with your mods is to put it on a rolling road.
Yeah i know, i will do that, i was just after a rough idea for now, just so i know.
i am gonna change the turbo now anyway, it just arrived, i am letting the car cool a little before i crack on, hopefully it wont take too long, not much light left!!!
Old 10 November 2010, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey2
Or, or, if i sell the td04, and get a z4 or z5 ecu, will the lag be sufficiently low that it will be comparable to running the td04 at 1bar??
A TD05 with a Z4, Z5, 6K or 7K is not that laggy at all.

And, if as you say. it's just a low cost run-about, then the cheaper/easier option is to leave the turbo in place and just match up the ECU.
Old 10 November 2010, 06:50 PM
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yeah, its kinda off now. I really really really hope it goes on easier!!

i know in theory it would be cheaper, but i already had a td04, and i have run out of pennies now, so unfortunately, i only really have the one choice!!
Old 10 November 2010, 07:44 PM
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be wary of the z5 it has a higher rev limit, its ok as long as you can keep the revs below7k
Old 10 November 2010, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by my94wrx
be wary of the z5 it has a higher rev limit, its ok as long as you can keep the revs below7k
As do the 6 and 7K iirc.
Old 10 November 2010, 08:41 PM
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Thats cool, the td04 is no now, just an intercooler pipe left, then prime and start!!
thankfully was a lot easier to get back on, all the extra time is taken with making sure i hadnt missed anything!!
Old 10 November 2010, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey2
Thats cool, the td04 is no now, just an intercooler pipe left, then prime and start!!
thankfully was a lot easier to get back on, all the extra time is taken with making sure i hadnt missed anything!!
Well done chap.
Old 10 November 2010, 11:16 PM
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cheers mate, its all good, huge huge difference!!! i can feel there is a lot less power, but its more useable. i was a bit worried earlier, i drove down the road, stopped to be met with a cloud, and i mean a proper cloud of smoke out the bonnet, it was coming out of the ventS, and the front, and underneath and out of the wing join at the door!!!! i opened up and it was billowing out, took me a couple of seconds to realise it was steam, not smoke, which was a releif, turned out i had managed to undo the coolant res cap, its everywhere!!! lol
Old 10 November 2010, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey2
cheers mate, its all good, huge huge difference!!! i can feel there is a lot less power, but its more useable. i was a bit worried earlier, i drove down the road, stopped to be met with a cloud, and i mean a proper cloud of smoke out the bonnet, it was coming out of the ventS, and the front, and underneath and out of the wing join at the door!!!! i opened up and it was billowing out, took me a couple of seconds to realise it was steam, not smoke, which was a releif, turned out i had managed to undo the coolant res cap, its everywhere!!! lol
She's getting old mate. Probably a bit of bladder weakness.

Tenna Lady is her friend.
Old 11 November 2010, 10:38 AM
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lol, i hope its sorted now, took it for a quick spin, bit of steam to start with, but i was a little mean and there wasnt anything like last night, so i think thats got it.
just need to do the rocker gasket, again. its still leaking.
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