version 1 wrx import boost problem
#1
version 1 wrx import boost problem
hi all new to this so here goes i bought a wrx 1994 import
engine wise the car has a front mounted intercooler and a hks dump valve i think its a recirculating valve
when bought it had a miss fire so i thought the problem was the coil packs and plugs so i replaced them it seemed OK for a day or two and now it just does not boost properly?
done the obvious checked vacuum pipes for leaks all seemed good ive put the green plugs together under the dashboard the cooling fan went on and off and the boost control valve was ticking lots not sure how to know if its ok
last thing is what rpm is it supposed to boost at
any advice would be great
engine wise the car has a front mounted intercooler and a hks dump valve i think its a recirculating valve
when bought it had a miss fire so i thought the problem was the coil packs and plugs so i replaced them it seemed OK for a day or two and now it just does not boost properly?
done the obvious checked vacuum pipes for leaks all seemed good ive put the green plugs together under the dashboard the cooling fan went on and off and the boost control valve was ticking lots not sure how to know if its ok
last thing is what rpm is it supposed to boost at
any advice would be great
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
hi all new to this so here goes i bought a wrx 1994 import
engine wise the car has a front mounted intercooler and a hks dump valve i think its a recirculating valve
when bought it had a miss fire so i thought the problem was the coil packs and plugs so i replaced them it seemed OK for a day or two and now it just does not boost properly?
done the obvious checked vacuum pipes for leaks all seemed good ive put the green plugs together under the dashboard the cooling fan went on and off and the boost control valve was ticking lots not sure how to know if its ok
last thing is what rpm is it supposed to boost at
any advice would be great
engine wise the car has a front mounted intercooler and a hks dump valve i think its a recirculating valve
when bought it had a miss fire so i thought the problem was the coil packs and plugs so i replaced them it seemed OK for a day or two and now it just does not boost properly?
done the obvious checked vacuum pipes for leaks all seemed good ive put the green plugs together under the dashboard the cooling fan went on and off and the boost control valve was ticking lots not sure how to know if its ok
last thing is what rpm is it supposed to boost at
any advice would be great
Try connecting the black wires and see what fault codes it throws at you.
Secondly, what plugs do you fit and what did you gap them to?
What makes you 'think' the HKS is a recirc?
Turbo spool up and boost target times/rpm will depend on what supporting mods you have with the FMIC. I would expect a lot more work/mods to have been carried out either before or during the fitting of the FMIC. If it is not properly mapped/set up, then you will be suffering lag. So hard to say really.
Last edited by Glowplug; 07 November 2010 at 01:55 AM.
#3
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you need to connect the 2 black plugs mate, put key in ignition but dont turn ignition on, connect the 2 black plugs under the dash then turn the ignition on and count the flashes, it'll be a few quick flashes and a few slow flashes, this will be the code, then if you look on here the guide is somewhere that tells ya what the codes mean.
It would also be worth checking your maf as these are common to fail and will give the symptoms you've explained. They're approx £130 for a new one though.
It would also be worth checking your maf as these are common to fail and will give the symptoms you've explained. They're approx £130 for a new one though.
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well sometimes if you smell the inside of the maf you can smell whether they're burning out, failing that another way would be to get hold of another one thats the same just to borrow and see if it eliminates the problem, i'm sure someone on here is local and has a green label maf he could use for 10 mins. But obviously you probably already knew this.
Last edited by gazzawrx; 07 November 2010 at 02:51 PM.
#6
hi thanks for the replies my mistake the hks dump valve is not a recirculating valve!
the plugs are laser platinum and the gaps are 0.8.
i just tryed plug in the black plugs together and all that happened was the alarm went off! i all so noticed that the check engine light dose not come on i have had the clocks out to see if any one has messed about with them all looks good
the plugs are laser platinum and the gaps are 0.8.
i just tryed plug in the black plugs together and all that happened was the alarm went off! i all so noticed that the check engine light dose not come on i have had the clocks out to see if any one has messed about with them all looks good
#7
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the check engine light should illuminate every time you turn the ignition on, then after it self tests the system the light should go off, or if there's a problem it'll stay lit. Check that the bulb for the check engine light is still in the clocks and that it's not blown.
Trending Topics
#10
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
well sometimes if you smell the inside of the maf you can smell whether they're burning out, failing that another way would be to get hold of another one thats the same just to borrow and see if it eliminates the problem, i'm sure someone on here is local and has a green label maf he could use for 10 mins. But obviously you probably already knew this.
Indeed the only sure way is to replace with a known servicable item.
NGK PFR7B's would be the ideal replacments, gapped to 0.65 or 0.70mm.
You need to get it replaced, swap it with some less importent bulb, handbrake perhaps. But defo not the oil light.
Then try the black wires again.
#11
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm always interested as to how people think you can 'check' the servicability of a MAF unit. Smelling it is a new one on me :
Indeed the only sure way is to replace with a known servicable item.
ok so you clearly dont know as much as you make out then.
So the CEL does not come on even under usual conditions? ie when the key is turned to acc.??
You need to get it replaced, swap it with some less importent bulb, handbrake perhaps. But defo not the oil light.
Then try the black wires again.
Indeed the only sure way is to replace with a known servicable item.
ok so you clearly dont know as much as you make out then.
So the CEL does not come on even under usual conditions? ie when the key is turned to acc.??
You need to get it replaced, swap it with some less importent bulb, handbrake perhaps. But defo not the oil light.
Then try the black wires again.
either way my aim here was to help the OP, regardless of whether you wanted a p1ssing contest. Instead of posting a helpful reply to the question i can't understand why you felt the need to try and have a dig at me, if you knew how to test the maf why didn't you reply, don't scorn me for helping out.
Last edited by gazzawrx; 07 November 2010 at 03:38 PM.
#13
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
At which point in my posts did you assume i claimed to know everything.
I mearly said, i am always interested in how people claim they can confirm the serviability of the MAF. There is really only one way to 'test' it, that being with an oscilloscope. Other than that, replacment with a known good unit is the best way.
I advised against removing the oil light bulb as it is a 'crucial' (albeit usually too late) warning light, and dependent on how long the OP takes to replace it, would mean he is running without that crucial indicator. As he seems to be now in respect to the CEL.
As you will be aware, there are many causes for low oil pressure, these are usually not predictable and can occure at any time. I would rather run with no handbrake light as i can tell when my handbrake is on with my left hand.
My aim is also to help the OP and anyone else, also to learn a little myself to continue the circle.
If i want a 'p1ssing contest' mate, i'll hop over to NSR
At what point did i have a dig at you.
As i said earlier, i am always interested to learn new ways of testing, so mearly asked you how you would do that.
Scorn you, again where did i do that?
I think you are being a little over sensitive my friend. Just because some one has a different view/take on a situation, that is no reason to throw your toys out of the pram. If i had scorned you, you would of known about it.
The Subaru and it's associated Boxer engine can be a very fickle beast. There is always more to learn about them, as i have realised over the last 4 years.
I mearly said, i am always interested in how people claim they can confirm the serviability of the MAF. There is really only one way to 'test' it, that being with an oscilloscope. Other than that, replacment with a known good unit is the best way.
by disconnecting the oil pressure bulb, the engines not exactly gonna loose oil pressure and sieze in the space of 2 minutes if the engine runs well any other time, but then again i'm talking to someone who clearly knows everything!!! or maybe you just think you do perhaps
As you will be aware, there are many causes for low oil pressure, these are usually not predictable and can occure at any time. I would rather run with no handbrake light as i can tell when my handbrake is on with my left hand.
My aim is also to help the OP and anyone else, also to learn a little myself to continue the circle.
If i want a 'p1ssing contest' mate, i'll hop over to NSR
As i said earlier, i am always interested to learn new ways of testing, so mearly asked you how you would do that.
Scorn you, again where did i do that?
I think you are being a little over sensitive my friend. Just because some one has a different view/take on a situation, that is no reason to throw your toys out of the pram. If i had scorned you, you would of known about it.
The Subaru and it's associated Boxer engine can be a very fickle beast. There is always more to learn about them, as i have realised over the last 4 years.
#14
swapped bulbs now working re done the test and came back with
22 knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction
24 idle air control valve circuit malfunction
32 heated oxygen sensor 1 circuit malfunction
33 vehicle speed sensor signal malfunction
not sore what to do next as cant a ford to replace all these parts and the alarm is a toad thanks
22 knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction
24 idle air control valve circuit malfunction
32 heated oxygen sensor 1 circuit malfunction
33 vehicle speed sensor signal malfunction
not sore what to do next as cant a ford to replace all these parts and the alarm is a toad thanks
#15
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
swapped bulbs now working re done the test and came back with
22 knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction
24 idle air control valve circuit malfunction
32 heated oxygen sensor 1 circuit malfunction
33 vehicle speed sensor signal malfunction
not sore what to do next as cant a ford to replace all these parts and the alarm is a toad thanks
22 knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction
24 idle air control valve circuit malfunction
32 heated oxygen sensor 1 circuit malfunction
33 vehicle speed sensor signal malfunction
not sore what to do next as cant a ford to replace all these parts and the alarm is a toad thanks
How to here.
#18
nice one mate
Nice one, now you've sorted that, do a full ECU reset mate. Some of these codes may be historical/stored. So resetting will clear the old codes and give you an upto date reading.
How to here.
How to here.
#19
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
reset the codes now just 22 knock sensor code went for a spine and it went like s**t off a shovel then the light came back on and stopped boosting again then went back off and was good for a min so i think im going to replace the knock sensor thanks for the help
Hopefully thats you sorted.
Don't you just love it when a plan comes together.
#20
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
At which point in my posts did you assume i claimed to know everything.
I mearly said, i am always interested in how people claim they can confirm the serviability of the MAF. There is really only one way to 'test' it, that being with an oscilloscope. Other than that, replacment with a known good unit is the best way.
No not at all, i've diagnosed quite a few faulty mafs now using the same tricks and it's always worked for me
I advised against removing the oil light bulb as it is a 'crucial' (albeit usually too late) warning light, and dependent on how long the OP takes to replace it, would mean he is running without that crucial indicator. As he seems to be now in respect to the CEL.
I understand if he was going to drive the car for a while without it, but i suggested it as a quick check option nothing more, which in the grand scheme of things worked out in the end as the bulb was faulty, so my info was helpful.
As you will be aware, there are many causes for low oil pressure, these are usually not predictable and can occure at any time. I would rather run with no handbrake light as i can tell when my handbrake is on with my left hand.
My aim is also to help the OP and anyone else, also to learn a little myself to continue the circle.
If i want a 'p1ssing contest' mate, i'll hop over to NSR
At what point did i have a dig at you.
I'm not an ****, we both know your post was attempting to have a dig, i've used forums for a long time, i can tell when a question is a genuine one and when someone's replying sarcastically just to be a ********.
As i said earlier, i am always interested to learn new ways of testing, so mearly asked you how you would do that.
Too which i replied with my tried and tested ways which have worked for me the last 12 years i've been in the trade, you still tried to laugh it off like i was talking ****e and you clearly haven't even tried it yourself to confirm whether it's plausible info or not.
Scorn you, again where did i do that?
In reference to the above comments i said dont scorn me for helping
I think you are being a little over sensitive my friend. Just because some one has a different view/take on a situation, that is no reason to throw your toys out of the pram.
No, i'm all for people having views and opinions, i just can't stand people who try and belittle others for their own views, which is clearly what you was attempting to do.
If i had scorned you, you would of known about it.
The Subaru and it's associated Boxer engine can be a very fickle beast. There is always more to learn about them, as i have realised over the last 4 years.
I mearly said, i am always interested in how people claim they can confirm the serviability of the MAF. There is really only one way to 'test' it, that being with an oscilloscope. Other than that, replacment with a known good unit is the best way.
No not at all, i've diagnosed quite a few faulty mafs now using the same tricks and it's always worked for me
I advised against removing the oil light bulb as it is a 'crucial' (albeit usually too late) warning light, and dependent on how long the OP takes to replace it, would mean he is running without that crucial indicator. As he seems to be now in respect to the CEL.
I understand if he was going to drive the car for a while without it, but i suggested it as a quick check option nothing more, which in the grand scheme of things worked out in the end as the bulb was faulty, so my info was helpful.
As you will be aware, there are many causes for low oil pressure, these are usually not predictable and can occure at any time. I would rather run with no handbrake light as i can tell when my handbrake is on with my left hand.
My aim is also to help the OP and anyone else, also to learn a little myself to continue the circle.
If i want a 'p1ssing contest' mate, i'll hop over to NSR
At what point did i have a dig at you.
I'm not an ****, we both know your post was attempting to have a dig, i've used forums for a long time, i can tell when a question is a genuine one and when someone's replying sarcastically just to be a ********.
As i said earlier, i am always interested to learn new ways of testing, so mearly asked you how you would do that.
Too which i replied with my tried and tested ways which have worked for me the last 12 years i've been in the trade, you still tried to laugh it off like i was talking ****e and you clearly haven't even tried it yourself to confirm whether it's plausible info or not.
Scorn you, again where did i do that?
In reference to the above comments i said dont scorn me for helping
I think you are being a little over sensitive my friend. Just because some one has a different view/take on a situation, that is no reason to throw your toys out of the pram.
No, i'm all for people having views and opinions, i just can't stand people who try and belittle others for their own views, which is clearly what you was attempting to do.
If i had scorned you, you would of known about it.
The Subaru and it's associated Boxer engine can be a very fickle beast. There is always more to learn about them, as i have realised over the last 4 years.
#21
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
reset the codes now just 22 knock sensor code went for a spine and it went like s**t off a shovel then the light came back on and stopped boosting again then went back off and was good for a min so i think im going to replace the knock sensor thanks for the help
#22
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
reset the codes now just 22 knock sensor code went for a spine and it went like s**t off a shovel then the light came back on and stopped boosting again then went back off and was good for a min so i think im going to replace the knock sensor thanks for the help
#23
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
In the 'grand scheme of things' it takes the same amount of time which ever bulb you change, only my suggestion imo was safer.
As for your information being helpful. Imho, suggesting the MAF is at fault so early in the diagnostic process and with the symptoms provided was not at all helpful. As the final results show.
I never said you was. You obviously have some self confidence/paranoia issues to say some thing like that.
Again, incorrect. The statement says more about you than it does me.
And at that time, i hadn't scorned you for anything.
For some one that says they use a lot of forums, you seem very single minded and uptight. Almost like you are not willing to accept anyone elses point of view, which to be part of any forum, you really need to be able to do.
As for 'me' being a ********, well...
#24
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2004
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats a new one? apon putting the belt on these pulleys the correct way the tension between the pulleys keeps it in place?
#25
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
just a thought the knock sensor could be faulty or you could have knock , hope you aint running her on 95ron if you are that will be the cause of knock , or the previous owner not clamping the passenger side pulleys when chainging cambelt as they slip 1/2 a tooth when you let the tensioner go if not clamped
There is no error code for 'actual knock', hence the use of det cans etc. The code 22 is saying that the Knock 'Sensor' is operating outside of the pre-set parameters and needs to be replaced. Not that Knock/Det is occuring. Once replaced, if the OP is suffering knock/det then the sensor will instruct the ECU to pull the timing as far as nessisary to try and prevent damage. As the KS if fudged at the moment, it could well be miss reading and telling the ECU to pull the timing which could/will cause the cr@p running.
Last edited by Glowplug; 07 November 2010 at 07:38 PM.
#26
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's fine by me. You stick to sniffing um. I'll stick to being a **** yeah
But you haven't a clue when the OP was going to be able to replace the oil light bulb. Hours, days,weeks? So, safer to assume later rather than sooner.
In the 'grand scheme of things' it takes the same amount of time which ever bulb you change, only my suggestion imo was safer.
As for your information being helpful. Imho, suggesting the MAF is at fault so early in the diagnostic process and with the symptoms provided was not at all helpful. As the final results show.
are you for real, it would take less than 5 minutes to swap them over and back, he's probably spent more time than that testing other things
I never said you was. You obviously have some self confidence/paranoia issues to say some thing like that.
No i just have issues with people like you
Again, incorrect. The statement says more about you than it does me.
wake up you dozy ****, we can go round in circles all day, you know what you was getting at.
Just how do you manage that? With your magic nose perhaps. (thats sarcasm btw, just incase you can't smell it. Ooops, there i go again)
Well so far my pointers as it were has been more help to the op than your bullsh1t replies so maybe my magic nose probably knows more than you. Admit it, you'll feel better
Correct, i have never sniffed a MAF to assertain it's servicability, further more, i don't know anyone else that has either.
I bet you've sniffed plenty of your own arsehole though so maybe you nose will be more trained than you think.
And at that time, i hadn't scorned you for anything.
I think you are all for people having views and opinions. But you 'just can't stand people' airring them along side and against your own. Thats why you replied to me first isn't it , maybe you dont like having a newbie put you in your place.
For some one that says they use a lot of forums, you seem very single minded and uptight. Almost like you are not willing to accept anyone elses point of view, which to be part of any forum, you really need to be able to do.
Stop! read it back and think about what you've just said, you replied to my post first, questioning my ability, i didn't approach your opinion at all. however much bullsh1t it turned out to be. Read back the whole thread and see exactly whos posts have been of help.
As for 'me' being a ********, well...Its true
But you haven't a clue when the OP was going to be able to replace the oil light bulb. Hours, days,weeks? So, safer to assume later rather than sooner.
In the 'grand scheme of things' it takes the same amount of time which ever bulb you change, only my suggestion imo was safer.
As for your information being helpful. Imho, suggesting the MAF is at fault so early in the diagnostic process and with the symptoms provided was not at all helpful. As the final results show.
are you for real, it would take less than 5 minutes to swap them over and back, he's probably spent more time than that testing other things
I never said you was. You obviously have some self confidence/paranoia issues to say some thing like that.
No i just have issues with people like you
Again, incorrect. The statement says more about you than it does me.
wake up you dozy ****, we can go round in circles all day, you know what you was getting at.
Just how do you manage that? With your magic nose perhaps. (thats sarcasm btw, just incase you can't smell it. Ooops, there i go again)
Well so far my pointers as it were has been more help to the op than your bullsh1t replies so maybe my magic nose probably knows more than you. Admit it, you'll feel better
Correct, i have never sniffed a MAF to assertain it's servicability, further more, i don't know anyone else that has either.
I bet you've sniffed plenty of your own arsehole though so maybe you nose will be more trained than you think.
And at that time, i hadn't scorned you for anything.
I think you are all for people having views and opinions. But you 'just can't stand people' airring them along side and against your own. Thats why you replied to me first isn't it , maybe you dont like having a newbie put you in your place.
For some one that says they use a lot of forums, you seem very single minded and uptight. Almost like you are not willing to accept anyone elses point of view, which to be part of any forum, you really need to be able to do.
Stop! read it back and think about what you've just said, you replied to my post first, questioning my ability, i didn't approach your opinion at all. however much bullsh1t it turned out to be. Read back the whole thread and see exactly whos posts have been of help.
As for 'me' being a ********, well...Its true
To the op i'm sorry the threads gone like this mate, there's always a **** who turn out to be nothing more than a key board warrior.
Last edited by gazzawrx; 08 November 2010 at 08:00 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
20
22 October 2015 06:12 AM