version 1 wrx import boost problem
 

hi all new to this so here goes i bought a wrx 1994 import :thumb:
engine wise the car has a front mounted intercooler and a hks dump valve i think its a recirculating valve
when bought it had a miss fire so i thought the problem was the coil packs and plugs so i replaced them it seemed OK for a day or two and now it just does not boost properly? :mad:
done the obvious checked vacuum pipes for leaks all seemed good ive put the green plugs together under the dashboard the cooling fan went on and off and the boost control valve was ticking lots not sure how to know if its ok
last thing is what rpm is it supposed to boost at

any advice would be great

you need to connect the 2 black plugs mate, put key in ignition but dont turn ignition on, connect the 2 black plugs under the dash then turn the ignition on and count the flashes, it'll be a few quick flashes and a few slow flashes, this will be the code, then if you look on here the guide is somewhere that tells ya what the codes mean.:)

It would also be worth checking your maf as these are common to fail and will give the symptoms you've explained. They're approx £130 for a new one though.

How would you advise the OP does this??

well sometimes if you smell the inside of the maf you can smell whether they're burning out, failing that another way would be to get hold of another one thats the same just to borrow and see if it eliminates the problem, i'm sure someone on here is local and has a green label maf he could use for 10 mins. But obviously you probably already knew this.:brickwall

hi thanks for the replies my mistake the hks dump valve is not a recirculating valve!
the plugs are laser platinum and the gaps are 0.8.
i just tryed plug in the black plugs together and all that happened was the alarm went off! i all so noticed that the check engine light dose not come on i have had the clocks out to see if any one has messed about with them all looks good

the check engine light should illuminate every time you turn the ignition on, then after it self tests the system the light should go off, or if there's a problem it'll stay lit. Check that the bulb for the check engine light is still in the clocks and that it's not blown.

i checked the bulb its still there it doesn't come on at all its not looking good then

try swapping the bulb for a few seconds with another one that you know works i.e oil pressure bulb and see if that does anything.

I'm always interested as to how people think you can 'check' the servicability of a MAF unit. Smelling it is a new one on me ::lol1:
Indeed the only sure way is to replace with a known servicable item.:thumb:

The DV could be the cause or a contributing factor to your problems, again the only way to rule it out is to replace with a known good unit, preferably a OE item.


NGK PFR7B's would be the ideal replacments, gapped to 0.65 or 0.70mm.

Never heard that one before. You did just turn on the ignition and not try to start the car.:wonder:


So the CEL does not come on even under usual conditions? ie when the key is turned to acc.??

You need to get it replaced, swap it with some less importent bulb, handbrake perhaps. But defo not the oil light.

Then try the black wires again.:thumb:

by disconnecting the oil pressure bulb, the engines not exactly gonna loose oil pressure and sieze in the space of 2 minutes if the engine runs well any other time, but then again i'm talking to someone who clearly knows everything!!! or maybe you just think you do perhaps:lol:

either way my aim here was to help the OP, regardless of whether you wanted a p1ssing contest. Instead of posting a helpful reply to the question i can't understand why you felt the need to try and have a dig at me, if you knew how to test the maf why didn't you reply, don't scorn me for helping out.

has you'rs got an alarm fitted as iirc the wrx imports never got one as standard?

At which point in my posts did you assume i claimed to know everything.

I mearly said, i am always interested in how people claim they can confirm the serviability of the MAF. There is really only one way to 'test' it, that being with an oscilloscope. Other than that, replacment with a known good unit is the best way.

I advised against removing the oil light bulb as it is a 'crucial' (albeit usually too late) warning light, and dependent on how long the OP takes to replace it, would mean he is running without that crucial indicator. As he seems to be now in respect to the CEL.

As you will be aware, there are many causes for low oil pressure, these are usually not predictable and can occure at any time. I would rather run with no handbrake light as i can tell when my handbrake is on with my left hand.

:lol1:My aim is also to help the OP and anyone else, also to learn a little myself to continue the circle.

If i want a 'p1ssing contest' mate, i'll hop over to NSR

At what point did i have a dig at you.

As i said earlier, i am always interested to learn new ways of testing, so mearly asked you how you would do that.



Scorn you:lol1:, again where did i do that?

I think you are being a little over sensitive my friend. Just because some one has a different view/take on a situation, that is no reason to throw your toys out of the pram. If i had scorned you, you would of known about it.

The Subaru and it's associated Boxer engine can be a very fickle beast. There is always more to learn about them, as i have realised over the last 4 years.

swapped bulbs now working re done the test and came back with
22 knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction
24 idle air control valve circuit malfunction
32 heated oxygen sensor 1 circuit malfunction
33 vehicle speed sensor signal malfunction
not sore what to do next as cant a ford to replace all these parts and the alarm is a toad thanks

Sorry to jump in on someone elses thread... but can you read the fault codes on a newage in the same way?

Jim

nice one mate
 

:luxhello::thumb: reset the codes now just 22 knock sensor code went for a spine and it went like s**t off a shovel then the light came back on and stopped boosting again then went back off and was good for a min so i think im going to replace the knock sensor thanks for the help:thumb:

kthxbye

glad you got it sort of sorted mate.:)

just a thought the knock sensor could be faulty or you could have knock , hope you aint running her on 95ron if you are that will be the cause of knock , or the previous owner not clamping the passenger side pulleys when chainging cambelt as they slip 1/2 a tooth when you let the tensioner go if not clamped

That's fine by me. You stick to sniffing um. I'll stick to


But you haven't a clue when the OP was going to be able to replace the oil light bulb. Hours, days,weeks? So, safer to assume later rather than sooner.
In the 'grand scheme of things' it takes the same amount of time which ever bulb you change, only my suggestion imo was safer.
As for your information being helpful. Imho, suggesting the MAF is at fault so early in the diagnostic process and with the symptoms provided was not at all helpful. As the final results show.


I never said you was. You obviously have some self confidence/paranoia issues to say some thing like that.

Again, incorrect. The statement says more about you than it does me.


Just how do you manage that? With your magic nose perhaps. (thats sarcasm btw, just incase you can't smell it. Ooops, there i go again)

Correct, i have never sniffed a MAF to assertain it's servicability, further more, i don't know anyone else that has either.

And at that time, i hadn't scorned you for anything.


I think you are all for people having views and opinions. But you 'just can't stand people' airring them along side and against your own.

For some one that says they use a lot of forums, you seem very single minded and uptight. Almost like you are not willing to accept anyone elses point of view, which to be part of any forum, you really need to be able to do.

As for 'me' being a dickhead, well...:lol1:

half a tooth? NOT A WHOLE TOOTH LOL, how can it have half a tooth:D

thats a new one? apon putting the belt on these pulleys the correct way the tension between the pulleys keeps it in place? :wonder:

Either way mate, i know my willy's bigger than yours, i dont need to try and show this on an open forum. If you wanna discuss it more take the adult approach now and take it to pm.


To the op i'm sorry the threads gone like this mate, there's always a knob who turn out to be nothing more than a key board warrior.:o