RedmanR30

Does anyone know without having to fit an induction kit if it's possible to drill the airbox and feed a lenght of cold air ducting with out the the car gaining problems. Reason is I'm sure after the car has warmed up properly then had a few blasts from 2nd to 4th the car is suffereing from heat soak and doesn't want to perform, I heard doing this might help as Ive just slipped in a new cosworth performance air filter element.. Any ideas?.

Billet

iTrader: (60)

That would not really help as there is a intake already at the front of the engine bay. heatsoak is when hot air is sucked in via the intercooler at the top of the engine, what you are proposing to do would not really help, and if it did it would be a very slight difference, the only way around heatsoak is to fit a front mount intercooler, but that then requires a remap and then your turbo being too small etc, basically a lot of hassle.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Definitely do not drill the airbox !

The airbox works really well as standard - you could put a feed from the bumper area to the bottom of the airbox instead of the air coming in through the snorkel. This does bring in more cold air but can upset air flow so may not have any actual benefit - in fact quite the opposite.

What makes you think it is heat soak ?

fastboyslim

iTrader: (2)

Easy fix would be for you to reach down with your right hand and poke your intercooler water spray button.

RedmanR30

Alright Duncan.. The car has 27k on clock when I got it 4 mnths ago, now it's just over 28k since having the car as I said earlier after it's warmed up it feels like the car has only got 200 bhp if that!!, i've had it twice at subaru who have OBD'D the car and absolutley nothing comes up every time. I've changed the plugs to the reccomended NGK pfr6 or prf6, changed all oils twice to be exact, replaced air filter element, £25 of V-Power everyday sometimes twice aday. It's always really hot when 85% of the time driving the car at no higher than 3000 rpm's. To me Duncan i persumed heat soak was within the air inlet system meaning airfilter element and like I said I heard from someone that cold feeding may solve. But now I understand heat soak is to do with the intercooler, I'm really lost as the coolant level is always at full or the usuall just over, Duncan how's your experience with myo5 sti type Uk with such or exact acceleration problems, as I'm at a deadend and could really do with some starting points or knowledge.. Thanks meantime

Also to the retard fastfaggot boy slim, I know what the fuking I/c button is and when to use do so all the time, I need real professional scooby knowledge, not from some jumped up little fuking retarded degenerate like u pick very closley nxt time who to insult idiot. Sorry Duncan thanks again hope to hear from you soon mate.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

It could well be that the way that the PPP map is using the boost and wastegate compensation tables when intake temps are high is reducing boost to a very low level.

So many different solutions but none of them involve getting subarru to plug their very limited OBD monitor in. They can access very little and unless something is broken they wont see it. Needs datalogging to see what it is doing during this to be fully sure - get your chosen mapper to do it or better still get it remapped - by the time you chase a theoretical problem around the car through subaru by replacing sensors etc it will be cheaper and will get the problem solved straight away (and give way better performance)

fastboyslim

iTrader: (2)

Also to the retard fastfaggot boy slim, I know what the fuking I/c button is and when to use do so all the time, I need real professional scooby knowledge, not from some jumped up little fuking retarded degenerate like u pick very closley nxt time who to insult idiot. [/quote]


Hahahhahaha, easy fella it was really meant as a joke.

Pink_Floyd

That's what I suggested the other week when I bumped into Redman. I've seen it done a lot on Audi's and it normally gets to the bottom of things sharpish.

Splitpin

The short answer is no, and in any case your entire line of logic has a big error inherent in it.

Whatever's causing that, it won't be "heat soak". Your chosen remedy won't "help" at all. The changes you're proposing (especially if you're talking about removing the resonator and replacing it with a pipe) are more likely to make things worse than the reverse. Don't forget that the standard uptake arrangement already pulls in air right from the front of the engine bay, so you're not going to make it significantly "colder" by piping it in from somewhere else.

The Select Monitor (especially the latest one) is capable of displaying all the information necessary to diagnose most faults, albeit in a format that is considerably less good than the best third party equipment. The problem is that it seems most garage technicians (even senior Subaru main dealer techs) don't have the experience to look at the live data and know what's right or wrong, the only thing they seem to go on is whether there are any fault codes, either active or stored.

Do you recall (or can you check) whether the dealer monitored what the ECU thought the coolant and intake air temperatures were, as a matter of interest?

PFR7Gs would probably be a better bet, and I think may be the recommended choice for the STi Type UK anyway. Did you check the plug gapping before you fitted the current set, by the way? 0.65mm is about optimal.

Does this mean you're doing a fair bit of mileage, or does it mean your fuel economy is unexpectedly bad?

Again, can you clarify what exactly you mean by this? Are you saying the temp needle on the dash is going really high when you keep the engine speed down, or...? In general coolant temps will go up a few degrees if you drive around consistently at very low engine speeds (especially labouring up hills in high gears)), as the slower the engine rotates, the slower the pump rotates and therefore the slower the coolant circulation around the engine. However, you wouldn't normally notice a big change in the dash temp gauge under these circumstances.

As you now know heatsoak is a phenomenon that affects the intercooler (to varying degrees) when the car is left standing for some time. As above, the design of the standard new age air intake tract is pretty good, you won't "solve" anything by changing it. You're also saying that your problem presents after you've given it some stick. If this was a heat soak/underbonnet temp related issue, you would be more likely to notice it after the car has been parked at a standstill for a few minutes (and probably see it becoming less of an issue as you continue driving) than find it getting worse through an extended workout.

The likeliest explanation for this state of affairs is the ECU responding in some way to a sensor input and reducing the power output whether directly or indirectly. As above your dealer does have the capability to do this out on the road, but probably doesn't have the knowledge. You could take the car to a good local specialist/mapper, or provided you have a laptop you could get yourself a diagnostic cable and something like RomRaider/Evoscan/ECUExplorer and have a look at the data yourself. If the power drops are as marked as you're describing, you will probably be able to spot any numbers that are out of the ballpark with a little instruction on what to look for, and from there identify the cause/fix.

Hmmm, charming. Seems you have a choice. You can continue with your barely literate homophobia, and end up either being banned, or simply ignored (and therefore stuck with a problem nobody is willing to help you solve). Or you can chill out and grow up. Take your pick.

wrx sti ppp

Totally agree...spot on.

Pink_Floyd

Did you ever resolve this?