scoobyd00999

iTrader: (1)

I will be changing my spark plugs over the weekend and really just after some hints and tips on how to do it.I found clubwrx that do a walkthrough so i will follow that.
But what should the gaps be set to(I got PFR6B 3500 and i think the pre set gap is .80,also the cars standard)
Also the thread goes on about resetting the ecu when its done,do i need to do this ?and if so how ?
Also it goes on about
"Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.

Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).

The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....

First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.

Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower

In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!

Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful! "

do i have to do this or will the car just sort itself out?

I never thought just changing the spark plugs was so involed or maybe I am just reading too much !!!!!!
Thanks Jason

PS I am also changing the fuel filter aswell,I take it you just take the pipes off the old one and connect up the new one????

martin850

iTrader: (51)

I have changed them on two of my previous imprezas and it's not too bad a job. You need to remove the airbox if you still have one on or the induction kit and also the windscreen washer bottle Nd battery to gain access. I used a socket set and it took the spark plug socket, short extension, long extension, knuckle joint and ratchet to remove them. Trick is to take your time and don't over tighten the new plugs when you fit them.

As for gapping I think they come pre done but need to check them before fitting a search on here will tell you what it should be.

Hope this helps mate

scoobyd00999

iTrader: (1)

any other replys

Fleetwood

The revving the car thing to accelerate the resetting of the IAM to maximum is utter utter b******t and could lead to damage.

Your car will constantly appraise the knock characteristics of the car through IAM, Fine Learning + feedback knock correction.

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...ategyExplained

It does this to protect the engine against bad batches of fuel for instance.

If your want to reset the ECU then yes disconnecting the power will do it. Just drive the car around as you normally would afterwards and the ECU will calibrate pretty quickly.

Here is one of the original threads for the revving thing:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302047

See how people come to realise its rubbish in the later pages.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, your reading way too much.

As said above, airbox or IK and screenwash bottle off. A decent socket set and patiece. Gap plugs to 0.7mm (always check them as i have had over half a mil difference out of the box) using a gapping tool and feelers, you can get the all in one tool from Halfrauds.

Yes fuel filter as simple as you say.

If you discinnect the battery when you start, then the ECU will be reset by the time you have finished. Don't bother with the 'accelorated methord', it is as said, a waste of time. Just drive as normal.