Just had a good search on here and on google, but couldnt find the answer to my question.

I'm going to be removing the heater's / ac and the matrix from the car, now when i come to remove the matrix i will be changing the coolant anyway, but as im keeping it off the car, I take it i just join up the inlet and outlet pipes coming from the engine with a pipe?

Or do i cap them (im thinking not as this will stop the flow)

Cheers

James

 

i would just join the pipes,but will be a cold car in the winter lol, removing the matrix is a real pain of a job,having just had to do it

 

just remember too that with no heater if the screen ever mists up you will not be able to clear it.

 

keep the matrix and just remove the ac

 

It's a track car so won't be out in the winter at all. As for steaming windows they did that last time it was raining and the blowers didn't do anything. Put some mistx on the screen and it never came back so going down that route.

 

So just join the two pipes up then?

 

I have just bought a 97 2000 sportwagon as a winter project. Unfortunately when I got it home I noted the pipes from the heater matrix had been looped. OOOps!
I have plenty of time and I never rush mechanics.
I have started to remove all the trim from the dash. In fact I have just about removed everything to gain access. I have not removed the actual dash or instruments I dont think it needs it. Do I have to remove the heater control switch/panel?? Oh and as its got A/C is the blower connected in someway to that? In any event it need re gassing. Any advice appreciated from those that have had to burrow into the confines of the complicated bits behind yer radio.

 

have you started yet? let me know how you are doing Cheers

 

having done this I know how much of a ball ache it is. watch out for breaking plastic trims etc when removing. it aint hard it just takes a loooooonnnnggggg time to do.

 

Nope not just yet... going to be doing it over this winter (after this next week as I'll be at scooby shoot out)

 

Well, Let me tell you. Its a total pain as others have said on here.
I am a very mechanical person and very few jobs frighten me.
The other lads have given you a cursory run down but there are nasty little things to watch for.
1 the cover ends at either side of the dash have several cross heads screws. Make sure you find them or things get bent.
2 Dont for get to dismantle the bonnet release cable under the dash or it hinders pullung on the dash.
3 Behind the instrument cluster there are loads of cable plugs which are a bit short so its hard to get in there. Once you have them out redirect them so they are longer and easier to put back. Oh and watch for the little clips that are on the plastc lugs they fall off and you need them.
4. You must release the speedo cable on the top of your gear box and push it up a bit. Dont try and pull the cluster in the hope it will relase from there you might damage wires as it jerks out.
5 You have to release the brace bar which runs across behind the dash.
On the n/s remove it from the bracket and not the bulkhead. You will see the reason for this.
On the o/s there are 3 bolts and one nut onto a captive bolt fixed to the o/s bulkhead
You cant get to any of this until you remove the dash.
Check along brace bar for any crossheads retaining the odd bracket and earth wire.
The brace bar is fixed to the tunnel by 4 bolts to 2 brackets. Remove these. DONT think you can get the unit past the bracket cos you wont.
6. When happy the dash is free at the front and lifting up and down. Carefully with a very thin screwdriver lift the trim of you demister deffuser. As you lift you will see a silver clip. Carefully work along the edge and you will see 4 more. when lifted carefully pull it out and you will see two bolts. Undo these and the dash should be free. It may hang on to a thick bit of loom on the o/s but its easy enough to wiggle about.
7 You will need to undo the steering column bracket and gently lower it onto the seat'
8 If you dont have aircon you are better off. If you do you have to undo the pipes on the bulkhead in the engine bay two openenders, you will lose your fluid. There are only 3 nuts to remove on the blower and if I remember 2 for the a/c matrix. Watch for wires and unplug Watch for control cables. just press the clip and they pop of the plastic control. Wriggle it ( a/c blower) about and pull it down to the right. The a/c matrix comes off the left side of the heater housing.
You will see the matrix set on an angle in its housing. There are 2 nuts left top and bottom and one top right. Pull back on the brace bar to get a couple of inches space and pull the whole unit towards you.

I did about an hour on this in the week and from 10am to 5:30 today Sat 25th though not continuously. Several cups of coffee and **** along with moments of deliberation on weather to abandon the project. burn it or stick it back on ebay spares or repair. I went back for another look and thought nah!!! Its only nuts and bolts and whats the rush Ive got another one to run around in...Or a Skyline if I taxed it.
Good luck comrade

 

I dont know if you are allowed to post piccys on here. I have posted piccys of the whole mess on facebook.
Look For Mike Carroll basingstoke

 

Are you not that Lotto winning "ex" crim.?

 

Cheers for posting that Micky, I already have had the dash out a few times, so thats no bother at all, was just trying to figure out if i should join the two pipes together, or just cap each of them off

 

If you dont need the heater join them up. You must have a flow and return as if the heater was connected.
You can get proper joining tubes with raised ribs to stop the clips slipping but Ive always found a bit of copper does the job.

 

No relation to that piece of human waste whatsover. I certainly would have done better with the dosh than he did.

I need a new matrix now cant find one anywhere so far.

 

I am no relation to that retarded piece of human waste whatsover. Giving him £9.4 million was like putting a diamond tiara on a sow.

 

lol although on the face of it he was 'undeserving' of it..... it IS a lottery after all.

We have to live with the 'injustices' of the Lotto's indiscrimanation.

 

Hi, Lads hope you have had better fun than me.
Well, I got it all back together last weekend Went to start it.. Nuffink!! all the lights and engine turning and nuffink. No power from coil to leads. Its got two imobilizers so I guessed one had spiked and was preventing power to ignition. Nah! not that. I was contemplating burning it by this time.
I remembered I had sprayed truck clean over the engine to soften the crap, So I thought it must be that. Blew everything out with the airline and still nowt. Then you start to get that element of doubt. Have I connected everey plug under the dash? Not actuall having touched the ignition stuff on the column I new it wasnt that.
I tried to get the missus to hold a spark plug on a disconnected lead be she told me to get serviced.
Anyway I eventually traced it to the feed to the coil, Disconnected the plug and flooded it with WD40 and blew it out again, reconnected and she started on the button.
I sprayed the engine with gunk today and hit the whole lot with the pressure washer. S**t or bust I hate a crappy engine bay..It looks lush. Said a small prayer turned the ignition and the cow started on the button!!!
Anyway, This thing has two cooling fans on the rad. I left it running to get the air out of the heater system and during this time only one fan came on. Is this a sender unit gone or does the fan cut in independently of the other at some stage?? I would be interested to know.

 

one fan is for the ac mate if you have removed it then it might not come one

 

Still need one? Fairly sure I have one in the shed.

 

Matrix is in mate read above. I have since found out that one of the fans on the rad cuts in at a higher temperature to thats all ok.