Hello, I've decided to change my timing belt because I have no idea when it was done last, So today I have taken the rad out for more room, taken the steering and ac belts off and now i'm stuck

The problem is removing the steering pulley nut, is there a special tool or a way of doing it. I dont want to go whacking it with a hammer or anything in a certain direction because i'm not sure which way they run. Clockwise or anti-clockwise as I''ve been told it runs the same way as the engine?

Then there is the other pulley on the bottom? How does this come off?

All this hassle and I haven't got the timing cover off yet

Thanks claire

 

not being cheeky but do you no what your doing as you need to set the timing belt exact or you will bounce all the valves of the pistons when you try to start again.not a job to get wrong to save money as the damage can leed to a new engine at worst. the belt has a tendancy to jump a tooth when you linig back up the marks can be a bit of a pain if you not got the right tools.not being cheeky just dont want you to blow up your engine.

 

The main pulley at the bottom, you need a 3ft breaker bar and 22mm (I think ) socket put the car in 5th with the handbrake on or preferably someone pressing the brakes on. it undoes the normal way, when you put it back the torque setting is stupidly high. but I cant remember the exact figure.

 

Powersteering pulley doesnt need to be removed, only have to remove crank pulley AFAIK.

 

I want to paint the pulleys to freshen them up thats all.

 

Oh dont worry I wont be touching the belt myself just taking the parts off ready of the guy to come. I want to take the pulleys off to give them a lick of paint to freshen them up. Cant afford to buy new shiny ones at the moment

 

Its 170lb/ft but i did mine up with an impact socket and impact gun.

 

Impact wrench, 3ft breaker bar with gearbox in 4th (too much backlash in 5th) and someone standing on the brakes. Handbrake won't be enough for a tight nut, unless you chock the front wheels.

or

Soak the bolt with wd40 or penetrating oil. Use a 1ft breaker bar with a 6-point impact socket, wedge it on the right hand chassis rail next to the battery, with a rag folded underneath it to protect the paint. Disconnect the crank sensor (located under the alternator). Put gearbox in neutral. Then give the starter a half-second "blip". Half a second, no more. Repeat if needed.

This more often than not gets it loosened. Although I do only reccomend it only as a last resort. It "may" break your breaker bar or knacker your socket if its a cheapy or not a proper impact socket, if you don't use a 6-point socket, you will risk rounding off the bolt head.