400bhp project parts. What am I missing?
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What with trying to sort this all via email and doing it inbetween working 16hour days on the other side of the world just wanted a fresh perspective on this to see if theres anything I might have missed out let me know if you can think of something from the small to the big I might have forgotten about. Aiming for 400bhp for starters the car is a V4 MY98 TypeR (Not worried about suspension, brakes or gearbox at present)
Sorted out so far:
Sorted out so far:
- 2.1 Stroker on CDB (Wiseco pistons, K1 rods, 2.5 crank, Cosworth engine bearings, Cosworth head gaskets and sump baffle plate, RCM oil pump and ARP head stud kit: built by Alan Jeffery)
- RCM Headers & Up pipe (Heat wrapped)
- Andy Forrest TD05-20G
- Simtek ECU
- Fuellab FPR
- 3" Cat back system
- 740 Injectors
- HDI GT2 FMIC
- Walbro 255 pump
Last edited by Scoobdogg; Aug 8, 2010 at 11:26 PM.
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and what intercooler you running as well mate?
Last edited by prodriverules; Aug 8, 2010 at 11:15 PM.
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i'd pretty much say get the things you've already mentioned you need plus an uprated fuel pump if you havent already and a good mapper and your there mate good luck with it,but plan to uprate the brakes and box at some point as it will take abit of stopping with that much go
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From: Now with added 2.1 jun/cosworth power
Paralell fuel rail set up maybe mate, an oil cooler, sytec fuel filter or similar, new timing belt poss a cosworth one + new tensioner if needed.
Oils, running in etc.
Probably not all necesitys mate but deff some things to think about, im planning my build at mo so in same sort of boat as you.
Oils, running in etc.
Probably not all necesitys mate but deff some things to think about, im planning my build at mo so in same sort of boat as you.
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Paralell fuel rail set up maybe mate, an oil cooler, sytec fuel filter or similar, new timing belt poss a cosworth one + new tensioner if needed.
Oils, running in etc.
Probably not all necesitys mate but deff some things to think about, im planning my build at mo so in same sort of boat as you.
Oils, running in etc.
Probably not all necesitys mate but deff some things to think about, im planning my build at mo so in same sort of boat as you.
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Gearbox will be chewed up, you have the ty452 and its the weakest box in the line up, maybe running 320lbs of torque it "may" be ok, running 380lbs and it wont last long, so personally I would look at upgrading to either a PPG (expensive and it still uses a duff subaru 5th gear) or a new age STI box (stronger than the PPG).
Have you upgraded the brakes? no mention there, I would look at a good AP type setup, 330mm minimum or if you have the wheels for it, the Brembo's off an STI with upgraded pads and discs, look at the suspension, new springs and dampeners, classic suspension isnt that good on an uprated car, arb's etc also.
There is probably more to add, the biggest fact is that it costs a fortune to modify a classic and they are not any quicker than a big heavy new age, p2w doesnt count as the cd factor is different, and if you put the money your going to spend on that car into one thats 5-6 years newer, you would still have cash left over and one very quick (JDM) newage twinscroll model
Tony
Have you upgraded the brakes? no mention there, I would look at a good AP type setup, 330mm minimum or if you have the wheels for it, the Brembo's off an STI with upgraded pads and discs, look at the suspension, new springs and dampeners, classic suspension isnt that good on an uprated car, arb's etc also.
There is probably more to add, the biggest fact is that it costs a fortune to modify a classic and they are not any quicker than a big heavy new age, p2w doesnt count as the cd factor is different, and if you put the money your going to spend on that car into one thats 5-6 years newer, you would still have cash left over and one very quick (JDM) newage twinscroll model

Tony
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Gearbox will be chewed up, you have the ty452 and its the weakest box in the line up, maybe running 320lbs of torque it "may" be ok, running 380lbs and it wont last long, so personally I would look at upgrading to either a PPG (expensive and it still uses a duff subaru 5th gear) or a new age STI box (stronger than the PPG).
Have you upgraded the brakes? no mention there, I would look at a good AP type setup, 330mm minimum or if you have the wheels for it, the Brembo's off an STI with upgraded pads and discs, look at the suspension, new springs and dampeners, classic suspension isnt that good on an uprated car, arb's etc also.
There is probably more to add, the biggest fact is that it costs a fortune to modify a classic and they are not any quicker than a big heavy new age, p2w doesnt count as the cd factor is different, and if you put the money your going to spend on that car into one thats 5-6 years newer, you would still have cash left over and one very quick (JDM) newage twinscroll model
Tony
Have you upgraded the brakes? no mention there, I would look at a good AP type setup, 330mm minimum or if you have the wheels for it, the Brembo's off an STI with upgraded pads and discs, look at the suspension, new springs and dampeners, classic suspension isnt that good on an uprated car, arb's etc also.
There is probably more to add, the biggest fact is that it costs a fortune to modify a classic and they are not any quicker than a big heavy new age, p2w doesnt count as the cd factor is different, and if you put the money your going to spend on that car into one thats 5-6 years newer, you would still have cash left over and one very quick (JDM) newage twinscroll model

Tony

Brakes are on the plan already an will be purchased soon.
But as stated in the original post neither of these items are my main concern at present I just want to confirm I have all I need engine wise.
Cheers for blasting my hopes of a fast classic and the costs involved! haha
The main factor in the project was the cost of the car initially though I paid pennies for a non running TypeR and I think that for the price of a decent newage alone I've got a car and a good chunk of the parts required already. The Type R is also in my eyes is a damn sight nicer on the eye than the majority of Imprezas, a little less common and something I've had my eye on ever since I had a WRX around 5 years ago.
Thanks as always for the advice though I will bare it in mind when the box upgrade is on the agenda an I think the 6 speed will be on the cards.
Ally
You're nuts! Newage will need more power to offset 250kg of lardiness 
TX.

TX.
There is probably more to add, the biggest fact is that it costs a fortune to modify a classic and they are not any quicker than a big heavy new age, p2w doesnt count as the cd factor is different, and if you put the money your going to spend on that car into one thats 5-6 years newer, you would still have cash left over and one very quick (JDM) newage twinscroll model 

just an idea mate,
my scoob is for sale 500bhp and its prob worth just playing with the idea of swapping all my running gear into your car,
if your intersted its in the for sale page, plus its got gearbox brakes etc etc and only been run in so virtually brand new
(just a thought)
my scoob is for sale 500bhp and its prob worth just playing with the idea of swapping all my running gear into your car,
if your intersted its in the for sale page, plus its got gearbox brakes etc etc and only been run in so virtually brand new
(just a thought)
2.1 Stroker on CDB (Wiseco pistons, K1 rods, 2.5 crank, Cosworth engine bearings, Cosworth head gaskets and sump baffle plate, RCM oil pump and ARP head stud kit: built by Alan Jeffery)
RCM Headers & Up pipe (Heat wrapped)
Andy Forrest TD05-20G
Simtek ECU
Fuellab FPR
3" Cat back system
740 Injectors
HDI GT2 FMIC
Walbro 255 pump
+
braided fuel lines.
all gaskets ( inlet, exhaust. throttle)
vacum lines.
turbo intake pipe. (probably custom job.
inlet spacers, because you may as well do them while its off.
3 port boost solinoid
lightweight flywheel.
selection of new bolts. m6,m8, various lengths.
all fluids.
engine mounts?
timing belt.
pulleys?
tensioners
etc
etc
how about a newage powersteering pump with resivour relocation (contact me if interested)
RCM Headers & Up pipe (Heat wrapped)
Andy Forrest TD05-20G
Simtek ECU
Fuellab FPR
3" Cat back system
740 Injectors
HDI GT2 FMIC
Walbro 255 pump
+
braided fuel lines.
all gaskets ( inlet, exhaust. throttle)
vacum lines.
turbo intake pipe. (probably custom job.
inlet spacers, because you may as well do them while its off.
3 port boost solinoid
lightweight flywheel.
selection of new bolts. m6,m8, various lengths.
all fluids.
engine mounts?
timing belt.
pulleys?
tensioners
etc
etc
how about a newage powersteering pump with resivour relocation (contact me if interested)
If you can then get a uprated clutch & i think your gearbox will be fine. I was running over 400ft lbs on a whining V4 sti box which took alot of abuse & its still going strong with the new owner.
If you are doing this on a budget and clearly you are then you don't need parallel fuel rails. There is nothing wrong with the OE fuel filter and aftermarket horizontal fuel filters can lead to problems.
Classics generally run less oil temperature than the 2.5s so fit an oil temperature guage or better still an oil temperature and pressure combined guage which will help you make a decision as to the need for an oil cooler.
Classics generally run less oil temperature than the 2.5s so fit an oil temperature guage or better still an oil temperature and pressure combined guage which will help you make a decision as to the need for an oil cooler.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
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From: United Kingdom
2.1 Stroker on CDB (Wiseco pistons, K1 rods, 2.5 crank, Cosworth engine bearings, Cosworth head gaskets and sump baffle plate, RCM oil pump and ARP head stud kit: built by Alan Jeffery)
RCM Headers & Up pipe (Heat wrapped)
Andy Forrest TD05-20G
Simtek ECU
Fuellab FPR
3" Cat back system
740 Injectors
HDI GT2 FMIC
Walbro 255 pump
+
braided fuel lines.
all gaskets ( inlet, exhaust. throttle)
vacum lines.
turbo intake pipe. (probably custom job.
inlet spacers, because you may as well do them while its off.
3 port boost solinoid
lightweight flywheel.
selection of new bolts. m6,m8, various lengths.
all fluids.
engine mounts?
timing belt.
pulleys?
tensioners
etc
etc
how about a newage powersteering pump with resivour relocation (contact me if interested)
RCM Headers & Up pipe (Heat wrapped)
Andy Forrest TD05-20G
Simtek ECU
Fuellab FPR
3" Cat back system
740 Injectors
HDI GT2 FMIC
Walbro 255 pump
+
braided fuel lines.
all gaskets ( inlet, exhaust. throttle)
vacum lines.
turbo intake pipe. (probably custom job.
inlet spacers, because you may as well do them while its off.
3 port boost solinoid
lightweight flywheel.
selection of new bolts. m6,m8, various lengths.
all fluids.
engine mounts?
timing belt.
pulleys?
tensioners
etc
etc
how about a newage powersteering pump with resivour relocation (contact me if interested)
just an idea mate,
my scoob is for sale 500bhp and its prob worth just playing with the idea of swapping all my running gear into your car,
if your intersted its in the for sale page, plus its got gearbox brakes etc etc and only been run in so virtually brand new
(just a thought)
my scoob is for sale 500bhp and its prob worth just playing with the idea of swapping all my running gear into your car,
if your intersted its in the for sale page, plus its got gearbox brakes etc etc and only been run in so virtually brand new
(just a thought)
See above
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
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Posts: 384
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From: United Kingdom
If you are doing this on a budget and clearly you are then you don't need parallel fuel rails. There is nothing wrong with the OE fuel filter and aftermarket horizontal fuel filters can lead to problems.
Classics generally run less oil temperature than the 2.5s so fit an oil temperature guage or better still an oil temperature and pressure combined guage which will help you make a decision as to the need for an oil cooler.
Classics generally run less oil temperature than the 2.5s so fit an oil temperature guage or better still an oil temperature and pressure combined guage which will help you make a decision as to the need for an oil cooler.
Aladdin I've heard this from a few people who are running them like that and have done for some time so I'm pretty confident it'll last as long as I need it to seems alot of people talk about things they have no previous experience in and heard off a mate. I'll maybe be proved wrong we'll see when it goes together, going to invest in a modified Exedy which should be more than capable for the figures i'll hit just now.
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
But some of us have been through it, and seen it these last 13 years of Scooby ownership... 
My std. clutch cried enough at 360 ft.lb.s, and several WRX owners I know have eaten a gearbox at only 300 bhp.
Good luck !
dunx
P.S. Parallel mod can be as simple as two 8mm brass t-pieces... and an fpr adaptor.

My std. clutch cried enough at 360 ft.lb.s, and several WRX owners I know have eaten a gearbox at only 300 bhp.
Good luck !
dunx
P.S. Parallel mod can be as simple as two 8mm brass t-pieces... and an fpr adaptor.
OK in answer to your question, not at 400 bhp. Either that or I have been very lucky several dozen times or this is another Scooby myth. You can decide which. Nice to have but far from essential and not required at 400 odd bhp. Would certainly want it in Duncan's position on a Time Attack or big power track car. On one of my own engines we were running well over 500 bhp and had a set of headers with a lambda sensor boss in each branch. There were differences cylinder to cylinder but not to do with the fuel rails/system.
Dunx has pointed out how cheaply it can be done but there are dozens of cars out there with parallel fuel rails and fuel systems in general that have cost hundreds of hard earned pounds that are totally unnecessary at that level of tune. If the build is on a budget as most are, then leading someone to believe they need things that are not necessary may mean they do not proceed on cost grounds.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
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From: United Kingdom
But some of us have been through it, and seen it these last 13 years of Scooby ownership... 
My std. clutch cried enough at 360 ft.lb.s, and several WRX owners I know have eaten a gearbox at only 300 bhp.
Good luck !
dunx
P.S. Parallel mod can be as simple as two 8mm brass t-pieces... and an fpr adaptor.

My std. clutch cried enough at 360 ft.lb.s, and several WRX owners I know have eaten a gearbox at only 300 bhp.
Good luck !
dunx
P.S. Parallel mod can be as simple as two 8mm brass t-pieces... and an fpr adaptor.
The clutch is getting replaced as previously mentioned above.
Is the WRX box not different from the V4 TypeR?
Cheers for your advice anyway.
I'll be interested to see just how long my box lasts after the reviews I have i'm 50/50 on it but for the amount of time I spend away I'm sure it'll do the job for long enough before I uprate.
Last edited by Scoobdogg; Aug 10, 2010 at 06:11 PM.
ive got alan jeffry building me a 2.2 lol ive got the tdo5 20g m8 700cc cosworth oil pump and all that and ive got a black box blitz thing on there dont know wat it is im getting andrew carr to map it him and scooby teknix say will we£ 400+ 2wk befor i get it of alan do your brakes m8 i got brembos put on cost me 400 fitted and ive just got a
wr1 6 speed gear box £ 2000
wr1 6 speed gear box £ 2000
Last edited by stef28-2008; Aug 10, 2010 at 06:32 PM.
OK in answer to your question, not at 400 bhp. Either that or I have been very lucky several dozen times or this is another Scooby myth. You can decide which. Nice to have but far from essential and not required at 400 odd bhp. Would certainly want it in Duncan's position on a Time Attack or big power track car. On one of my own engines we were running well over 500 bhp and had a set of headers with a lambda sensor boss in each branch. There were differences cylinder to cylinder but not to do with the fuel rails/system.
Dunx has pointed out how cheaply it can be done but there are dozens of cars out there with parallel fuel rails and fuel systems in general that have cost hundreds of hard earned pounds that are totally unnecessary at that level of tune. If the build is on a budget as most are, then leading someone to believe they need things that are not necessary may mean they do not proceed on cost grounds.
Dunx has pointed out how cheaply it can be done but there are dozens of cars out there with parallel fuel rails and fuel systems in general that have cost hundreds of hard earned pounds that are totally unnecessary at that level of tune. If the build is on a budget as most are, then leading someone to believe they need things that are not necessary may mean they do not proceed on cost grounds.
not saying its a big thing that is 100% needed. but lets be honest when doing a big you want to do things right first time and any type of precausion you can take to stop anything bad happening then you would want to take it. even if you yourself have been lucky. we all know people who have been unlucky.
Sorry I have only been lucky a few dozen times like I said above. I do agree when you are doing a big build it is worth investing in parallel fuel rails but 400 bhp is not a big build by the stretch of anyone's imagination.
On another topic I think it is a falacy or another Scooby myth that number 3 piston usually goes. It is not my experience and others with far more engine building experience on Subarus because they build engines day in/day out have confirmed this too.
On another topic I think it is a falacy or another Scooby myth that number 3 piston usually goes. It is not my experience and others with far more engine building experience on Subarus because they build engines day in/day out have confirmed this too.
My old Type R made this on a 2.1 stroker with an 18g + 10%meth, with stock fuel rails parallel fed, your setup should easily make the same if not a touch more, as above i doubt the parallel feed to rails would have affected the power / tourque output
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