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Classic WRX Import - Power loss/fluctuations

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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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Default Classic WRX Import - Power loss/fluctuations

EDIT: This thread is in regards to a 1996 impreza (I don't think I made this clear in the title or thread below)

I am in need of some help….. I have an N reg Japanese import Impreza WRX Wagon(I think… – I bought it advertised as an STi but I don’t think it is one) which is currently having throttle/power problems. Basically after the engine has warmed up for about 10 mins I keep losing power frequently whether I am putting my foot on the gas or whether the car is just cruising. It usually does this for a little while before an engine check light comes on and if I keep going the engine eventually just cuts out altogether and if left for a minute or so will restart first time but still have the engine check light and power loss problems. I’ve had to do this a couple of time (stupid I know) when I would otherwise have been stranded in the middle of nowhere if I didn’t try and coax her home.

This has been going on for a few weeks but maybe longer as I only drive 8 miles to work so usually this isn’t long/far enough for the problem to start and it was suggested by my local garage that it could be that I need some new spark plugs. These were fitted, but the problem still remains. What has now happened (and I don’t know whether they are related in any way) is that now the car battery in the space of 1 day has died – which also caused on the final journey home the speedo and rev counter to go bananas. It got a battery warning light for the first time yesterday and this morning the battery was completely flat. I am hoping to get a new battery fitted this evening but was hoping anyone on here might have a clue as to what the problem with the throttle response is.

Thanks in advance to any posters and any help is greatly appreciated.

Last edited by greektony; Apr 30, 2010 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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connect the two black wires under the sterring wheel area of the dash and check what fauklt codes you get.

do a search on here for the "fault code reading" and im sure itll be more precise with pics

might point you in right direction
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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Thanks, I’ll give that a go tonight. Whereabouts would this code appear on the dash as I have never noticed any digital display, only the lights for oil, temp, engine check etc
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 03:11 PM
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the engine check light flashes in a sequence that then relates to a diagnostic code,

long flashes are 10, short flashes are 1,

so 2 long and 3 short flashes = 23, ect
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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thanks again. I'll post on here what the results are if I get time tonight to get a new battery in her
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 04:02 PM
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see

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...gECUCodes#toc3
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 05:04 PM
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wish I had found out about the ECU codes and how to get them years ago!!! Thanks boys
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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Thanks Jef and Mark, my baby had enough juice left in her battery to give me some diagnostic results........ and they are 22 and 23 which according to the trouble codes provided by Mark means the 'Knock Sensor' and the 'Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit'. So this is a start but the most important question is does anyone have any ideas about whether these sound like likely causes for the power loss problems I've been experiencing and how much I will be looking at to get this put right.

Again, thanks alot boys.
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Old May 1, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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Anyone know how much this is likely to cost me? Just a ballpark figure is more than ok
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Old May 3, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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??????????????
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Old May 3, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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both would cause dodgy running m8 as for prices you could put a post in wanted or pm madhammer off here , he has helped me out shed loads with parts
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Old May 3, 2010 | 01:52 PM
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thanks saloonwoody, i'll give your suggestions a go
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Old May 3, 2010 | 04:57 PM
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would get your battery sorted first so that you get all the correct voltages to all sensors because low voltages to sensors will bring on lights and give poor running try fitting new battery , check alternator and charging circuit ,clear codes then go for drive if engine light comes back on check those codes out
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Old May 4, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion chris575. As I am getting this sorted, is there anything else I should look to replace as I am getting this work done. The air filter is getting on for over 2 1/2 years old so maybe this should be replaced. Anyone have any other ideas?
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Old May 5, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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What colour label do you have on the MAF?

The early ones can be pricey. I have a purple label MAF and was quote £350 from the dealers but you can get them for £290 here http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=1143

In the end I got a second hand one from a guy off here.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 02:37 PM
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Luckily I managed to get a MAF for 45 pounds including postage. I had the green labelled one. Now just trying to find a suitable knock sensor and air filter so if anyone has any suggestions, please fire away

Last edited by greektony; May 5, 2010 at 03:03 PM.
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