Advice please!!!
#1
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Advice please!!!
Hello.
I have a my99 uk classic turbo with a few mod's, decat & stainless, k & n induction kit & forge dump valve. My question is that I have alway's been told/thought because it was a uk car it was built to run on standard unleaded, speaking to a guy yesterday & he said to use some octane booster or some 97 ron petrol, sorry if I am being stupid but what should I be doing???!!!
Thank's in advance.
I have a my99 uk classic turbo with a few mod's, decat & stainless, k & n induction kit & forge dump valve. My question is that I have alway's been told/thought because it was a uk car it was built to run on standard unleaded, speaking to a guy yesterday & he said to use some octane booster or some 97 ron petrol, sorry if I am being stupid but what should I be doing???!!!
Thank's in advance.
#2
Should run it on V-Power/etc to get the best performance and engine safety out of it. Although that's not the only issue you're dealing with.
Unless the car has been mapped around it, the induction kit is a bad idea, you'd be better off with the standard induction tract and a good panel filter. Dumpvalve won't be doing it any favours either.
Unless the car has been mapped around it, the induction kit is a bad idea, you'd be better off with the standard induction tract and a good panel filter. Dumpvalve won't be doing it any favours either.
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The car hasn't been mapped to my knowledge & the mod's were already done to it before I bought it, so the recommendation's are to get the oe fitted, take away the de-cat & fit the standard d/v, sound's expensive!!!
#4
The decat should be fine on the standard ECU, but you'd be better off fitting the standard airbox and induction tract with a good (K&N/Green etc) panel filter instead of the cone. Dumpvalve, again, the car runs better with the standard one, although it's a far more marginal issue than the induction.
Shouldn't be too expensive at all to replace these bits with OE spec ones - keep an eye on the for sale forum/eBay etc and you should be able to pick up what you need for not very much. May even end up in credit if you sell the aftermarket stuff afterwards.
Shouldn't be too expensive at all to replace these bits with OE spec ones - keep an eye on the for sale forum/eBay etc and you should be able to pick up what you need for not very much. May even end up in credit if you sell the aftermarket stuff afterwards.
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I will keep my eye's open for the part's or might look into saving for the remap, how serious is it do you think to be running it as it is with some higher octane, would that be ok?
#6
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I have the same model year car as yourself,and have run it on either shell vpower or tesco 99 - no need for octane booster. In the rare cases that i have had to use normal 97 unleaded have not had any problems at all.Regarding the dumpvalve,if its not giving you any running issues then keep it on,but no performance gains to be had by doing so.
Personally i have had 3 different dump/bov(baileys,forge,blitz) to date and have currently switched back to the standard recirculating valve , as i intend to run it like this for a couple of weeks to see what the overall good/bad points are ,and post my findings on here at a later date,but after 4 days car seems to be liking the recirc .
Personally i have had 3 different dump/bov(baileys,forge,blitz) to date and have currently switched back to the standard recirculating valve , as i intend to run it like this for a couple of weeks to see what the overall good/bad points are ,and post my findings on here at a later date,but after 4 days car seems to be liking the recirc .
#7
The big problem with induction kits on a 99-00 is that aside from changing the airflow meter's scaling, they can also increase (or accelerate) its susceptibility to vibration damage - with the result that the engine starts to run lean under boost.
While running higher octane fuel will give you a bit more insurance in those situations, it ultimately won't protect the engine from the consequences of a seriously failing sensor.
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#8
as above,ditch the induction kit as no good for my99 unless simtec(mafless) is used.i have a uk 99 turbo and even on the inside of the petrol flap it states "super unleaded only". u dont really need to run octane booster as long as you are on decent super unleaded.but there is no harm in it.
run it on super unleaded and save the money from the octane booster to pay for the oe airbox and filter.
run it on super unleaded and save the money from the octane booster to pay for the oe airbox and filter.
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the official subaru bumph you get with the uk cars state its to run on 95 ron fuel. super unleaded-97 ron is better as just helps with stopping detonation when hammering it.run mine on super unleaded all the time and making good,safe power with few mods.
#10
agreed,but as i stated above it does say "super unleaded only" on the inside of petrol flap.
#11
My 2000 Uk model Turbo says super unleaded on the filler flap but in the owners handbook it says it will run fine on 95 ron, and it does.
Surely the point of the knock sensor etc is to adjust the engine for what fuel it is running. If you have a knock sensor it will adjust for 95 or 99 ron. 99 ron should give you (slightly) more power and maybe economy (though maybe not both at the same time ) But 95 ron (normal unleaded) will have no detrimental affect on a standard UK spec car.
Surely the point of the knock sensor etc is to adjust the engine for what fuel it is running. If you have a knock sensor it will adjust for 95 or 99 ron. 99 ron should give you (slightly) more power and maybe economy (though maybe not both at the same time ) But 95 ron (normal unleaded) will have no detrimental affect on a standard UK spec car.
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... if the knock sensor is working as designed on a 10 year old car. I wouldn't want to trust it to pull enough timing to protect the engine. On most cars the knock sensor and ecu work together perfectly to protect themselves but on some there can be genuine det heard on det cans and yet nothing recorded or actioned by the ecu. It doesnt take a vast amount of det to cause big issues.
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Midnight keep me updated on the dump valve experiment, had half a tank of 95 ron but topped it up with some tesco 99ron so at least the mix should prevent some det.....hopefully if it is happening, will keep my eye out for the oe air filter, think that will be my first change to see how it goe's, d/v after that & then possibly the de-cat.
99greenmonster, how do I know if it is a simtek one, if it is mafless there will be nothing plugged into it? Excuse my ignorance I am just learning about my car!!!
Thank's for all the reply's chap's.
99greenmonster, how do I know if it is a simtek one, if it is mafless there will be nothing plugged into it? Excuse my ignorance I am just learning about my car!!!
Thank's for all the reply's chap's.
Last edited by gra2730; 20 February 2010 at 09:40 AM.
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