cutting out after 4000 revs. help please?
#1
cutting out after 4000 revs. help please?
hi everyone i am new to this site it seems like there is a lot of you guys that know what they are talking about so i hope some one can help me and thanks very much in advance
i have a subaru impreza wrx saloon 2000 turbo awd 1996 jap import
few weeks a go i had a brand new engine rebuild cus one of the pistons had melted but before the piston melt the car was a rocket and very reliable and none known faults.
now i got the car back from the company that rebuilt the engine and the check engine light is on and the car throws you forward and cuts out after 4000 revs and they are saying that they dont have the correct pin for there diognostic machine to plug it in and see what the problem is!
i was wondering if any of you guys would know what the problem could be?
ohh and i have brand new turbo aswell
thanks very much for all your help
i have a subaru impreza wrx saloon 2000 turbo awd 1996 jap import
few weeks a go i had a brand new engine rebuild cus one of the pistons had melted but before the piston melt the car was a rocket and very reliable and none known faults.
now i got the car back from the company that rebuilt the engine and the check engine light is on and the car throws you forward and cuts out after 4000 revs and they are saying that they dont have the correct pin for there diognostic machine to plug it in and see what the problem is!
i was wondering if any of you guys would know what the problem could be?
ohh and i have brand new turbo aswell
thanks very much for all your help
#3
one of the mechanics in there said it was wrong and he reckons he corrected the pipework but i wouldnt know if he actually done the rite pipework ?
thanks
Last edited by lamboscooby; 02 December 2009 at 12:33 AM.
#5
Does sound like overboosting / boost cut. If the check engine light is on then you should be able to get the fault codes yourself and see what the issue is - have a look here (JGM's site - very helpful), might give you an idea where to start looking. Strange that a garage would undertake a build without having the expertise / equipment to verify it was working correctly.
Also, you say you have a new turbo as well - if that is a different spec / type than the one that came off, it may be causing issues
Welcome to SN by the way, hope you get it sorted soon
Also, you say you have a new turbo as well - if that is a different spec / type than the one that came off, it may be causing issues
Welcome to SN by the way, hope you get it sorted soon
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Being slightly pedantic which one is it?
classic wrx = import
Turbo 2000 = UK model
Being a classic you can check the error codes yourself.
There is a 'How to' section here Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / ECU
classic wrx = import
Turbo 2000 = UK model
Being a classic you can check the error codes yourself.
There is a 'How to' section here Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / ECU
Last edited by myblackwrx; 02 December 2009 at 10:38 AM.
#7
Does sound like overboosting / boost cut. If the check engine light is on then you should be able to get the fault codes yourself and see what the issue is - have a look here (JGM's site - very helpful), might give you an idea where to start looking. Strange that a garage would undertake a build without having the expertise / equipment to verify it was working correctly.
Also, you say you have a new turbo as well - if that is a different spec / type than the one that came off, it may be causing issues
Welcome to SN by the way, hope you get it sorted soon
Also, you say you have a new turbo as well - if that is a different spec / type than the one that came off, it may be causing issues
Welcome to SN by the way, hope you get it sorted soon
thanks for your welcome
i like the site a lot of useful information and peaople like you guys keep up the good work
Last edited by lamboscooby; 03 December 2009 at 11:58 AM.
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#8
Being slightly pedantic which one is it?
classic wrx = import
Turbo 2000 = UK model
Being a classic you can check the error codes yourself.
There is a 'How to' section here Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / ECU
classic wrx = import
Turbo 2000 = UK model
Being a classic you can check the error codes yourself.
There is a 'How to' section here Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / ECU
classic wrx import
i had a look at the link and its very helpful
thanks very much
#9
After driving it for a while it cuts out now and again does that mean the map sensor is on its way out?
Thanks very much
#10
By rights lamboscooby, it should be the firm who rebuilt/refitted your engine sorting this problem out, not us!
Error 45 can be caused by the MAP sensor or the pressure source change solenoid (the little solenoid that switches the pressure input between MAP and atmospheric). The error can be caused simply by forgetting to plug one or both in so check yourself that there aren't any loose plugs around the sensor bracket.
If all the connections are good, you can use the ECUs test mode (connect the green plugs under the dash and turn the ignition on) to force the pressure source change solenoid to cycle on and off. If you can hear/feel it clicking, then the implication is that the error is caused by the MAP sensor itself.
Make sure too that neither of the pipes leading from the inlet manifold to the PSCS, and from PSCS to sensor, are blocked up with oily crap.
Also bear in mind that if the check engine light is on now, and 45 is one of the errors being reported, your ECU cannot measure any pressures. It will probably be in limp mode, but if it isn't, don't drive it under boost until this is fixed.
Error 45 can be caused by the MAP sensor or the pressure source change solenoid (the little solenoid that switches the pressure input between MAP and atmospheric). The error can be caused simply by forgetting to plug one or both in so check yourself that there aren't any loose plugs around the sensor bracket.
If all the connections are good, you can use the ECUs test mode (connect the green plugs under the dash and turn the ignition on) to force the pressure source change solenoid to cycle on and off. If you can hear/feel it clicking, then the implication is that the error is caused by the MAP sensor itself.
Make sure too that neither of the pipes leading from the inlet manifold to the PSCS, and from PSCS to sensor, are blocked up with oily crap.
Also bear in mind that if the check engine light is on now, and 45 is one of the errors being reported, your ECU cannot measure any pressures. It will probably be in limp mode, but if it isn't, don't drive it under boost until this is fixed.
#11
some times you got to do what you got do you know they are taking there time so what ever
do you know any scooby specialist around london area or just outside of london?
no connection problems, for the test do i just connect the green connectors or the blacks as well?
do i connect the blacks and the greens to reset the ecu once i sort out the problem?
another question what is a limp mode? its probably like a safety mode rite?
there is only 1 error code which is 45!
i saw a map sensor with the solonied for £25 on ebay do u think thats a good buy?
thanks very much for your help
do you know any scooby specialist around london area or just outside of london?
no connection problems, for the test do i just connect the green connectors or the blacks as well?
do i connect the blacks and the greens to reset the ecu once i sort out the problem?
another question what is a limp mode? its probably like a safety mode rite?
there is only 1 error code which is 45!
i saw a map sensor with the solonied for £25 on ebay do u think thats a good buy?
thanks very much for your help
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