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Old 22 November 2009, 09:07 PM
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mj0n3s
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just found out some bad news today, took my car to my mecanic last week because i was getting hessation from about 2-4k rpm so he put her on the rollers n found out she was running really lean, made 285, then he took the air filter out and i gained 20 extra bhp and it richened up a bit but still dangerously lean, he has come to the conclusion that its the maf which aint cheap by itsself. but he has done a compression test and its runnning 130 - 140 psi on all cylinders exept number 1 cylinder which is 35psi. she doesnt smoke o anything so he thinks its somthing in the head that needs replacing. is it a hard job take the head off and replace , also he says he cant test the maf to be 100% sure it is falty anyone else shed any light on the situation

thanks in advance guys

mike
Old 22 November 2009, 09:27 PM
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STI_Baly
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TBH i would deal with compression issue first, this is the major issue here.

I would honestly take the whole engine out and take it from there. Sorry to hear this mate.....i hope he installed the adapter correctly into the plug hole.
Old 22 November 2009, 09:40 PM
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mj0n3s
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big job then? a bit off topic but does anyone no how much the internals of a 1997 type r sti can take, because i might aswell forge the engine if its coming out. im looking for about 400 -450?

Mike
Old 22 November 2009, 09:49 PM
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It will more than likely be an open deck block EJ20K, these have been known to take 450BHP.

Big Job - Yes.

Best deal for Rods and Pistons i would say is >>> CDF Racing Suppliers of Whiteline bailey manley wiseco samco powerflex performance fricton
Old 22 November 2009, 10:00 PM
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Cheers mate that does sound like a really good deal for both pistons and rods, is there any thing else i should upgrade like head bolts valves etc

so does anyone have any information on the maff problem i want to no if it is before i spend 300+ on a new maf

cheers
Mike
Old 22 November 2009, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mj0n3s
Cheers mate that does sound like a really good deal for both pistons and rods, is there any thing else i should upgrade like head bolts valves etc

so does anyone have any information on the maff problem i want to no if it is before i spend 300+ on a new maf

cheers
Mike
you can test the voltage of the maf while running the car and driving, i did this by wiring a voltmeter to the maf signal at the ecu end, and comparing the readings to see if they were in spec.
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