Cambelt Cover Rattle?
#1
Cambelt Cover Rattle?
Been driving me mad...cant work out what it is.
Get a rubbing/rattle noise from the left hand cambelt cover at the top. Loud when engine bay cold, goes away when warm.
Took the cover off today, checked the clearance on the belt guide, all fine.
Started the car with the cover off, still get the noise, so its not the pulleys/belt rubbing on the housing.
odd thing is, if you apply a little pressure downwards on the housing, it goes away.
Any ideas? Or am i missing something very obvious?
Get a rubbing/rattle noise from the left hand cambelt cover at the top. Loud when engine bay cold, goes away when warm.
Took the cover off today, checked the clearance on the belt guide, all fine.
Started the car with the cover off, still get the noise, so its not the pulleys/belt rubbing on the housing.
odd thing is, if you apply a little pressure downwards on the housing, it goes away.
Any ideas? Or am i missing something very obvious?
#2
Is there any way the moulding has been cracked, or that one of the bolts behind the cam wheels that holds it to the head have come loose?
Also when you say "left", do you mean looking from the front or from the steering wheel? If you mean the 2/4 bank. might be the rubber seal on the cam position sensor squeaking.
Also when you say "left", do you mean looking from the front or from the steering wheel? If you mean the 2/4 bank. might be the rubber seal on the cam position sensor squeaking.
#4
Been driving me mad...cant work out what it is.
Get a rubbing/rattle noise from the left hand cambelt cover at the top. Loud when engine bay cold, goes away when warm.
Took the cover off today, checked the clearance on the belt guide, all fine.
Started the car with the cover off, still get the noise, so its not the pulleys/belt rubbing on the housing.
odd thing is, if you apply a little pressure downwards on the housing, it goes away.
Any ideas? Or am i missing something very obvious?
Get a rubbing/rattle noise from the left hand cambelt cover at the top. Loud when engine bay cold, goes away when warm.
Took the cover off today, checked the clearance on the belt guide, all fine.
Started the car with the cover off, still get the noise, so its not the pulleys/belt rubbing on the housing.
odd thing is, if you apply a little pressure downwards on the housing, it goes away.
Any ideas? Or am i missing something very obvious?
#5
The only things that could possibly touch or rub against the belt (apart from the pulleys and idler wheels) are the guides fitted next to the crank, 2/4 exhaust and both 1/3 cam pulleys designed to stop the it jumping teeth. These guides should be adjusted to give 1mm of clearance. If one is too close you'll see marking on the half of the belt nearest the back of the car.
#6
No that shouldn't explain it. The belt is located by fences on opposite sides of the cam pulleys and has some built-in leeway to float a couple of mil. If it's rubbing on something, then that means the "something", whatever it is, shouldn't be there.
The only things that could possibly touch or rub against the belt (apart from the pulleys and idler wheels) are the guides fitted next to the crank, 2/4 exhaust and both 1/3 cam pulleys designed to stop the it jumping teeth. These guides should be adjusted to give 1mm of clearance. If one is too close you'll see marking on the half of the belt nearest the back of the car.
The only things that could possibly touch or rub against the belt (apart from the pulleys and idler wheels) are the guides fitted next to the crank, 2/4 exhaust and both 1/3 cam pulleys designed to stop the it jumping teeth. These guides should be adjusted to give 1mm of clearance. If one is too close you'll see marking on the half of the belt nearest the back of the car.
#7
No sweat. Those fecking things are one of the reasons why it's worth taking the radiator off before changing the timing belt.
Also, whether the rad comes off or not, it's worth investing in a pair of 1mm drills, bits of 1mm piano wire, or similar, and use these to space out the guides when tightening them back up. Stick them in between the guide and belt, tighten the bolts, pull out the drills, you should have perfectly spaced guides. Next to impossible to get them right by any other method when the engine is in the car.
Also, whether the rad comes off or not, it's worth investing in a pair of 1mm drills, bits of 1mm piano wire, or similar, and use these to space out the guides when tightening them back up. Stick them in between the guide and belt, tighten the bolts, pull out the drills, you should have perfectly spaced guides. Next to impossible to get them right by any other method when the engine is in the car.
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#8
No sweat. Those fecking things are one of the reasons why it's worth taking the radiator off before changing the timing belt.
Also, whether the rad comes off or not, it's worth investing in a pair of 1mm drills, bits of 1mm piano wire, or similar, and use these to space out the guides when tightening them back up. Stick them in between the guide and belt, tighten the bolts, pull out the drills, you should have perfectly spaced guides. Next to impossible to get them right by any other method when the engine is in the car.
Also, whether the rad comes off or not, it's worth investing in a pair of 1mm drills, bits of 1mm piano wire, or similar, and use these to space out the guides when tightening them back up. Stick them in between the guide and belt, tighten the bolts, pull out the drills, you should have perfectly spaced guides. Next to impossible to get them right by any other method when the engine is in the car.
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