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0.5 bar of boost is no fun

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Old 14 September 2009, 06:56 PM
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dbay
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Unhappy 0.5 bar of boost is no fun

hi ppl, im struggling to sort out my boost problems. the boost has been getting worse over some time and was running half a bar due to my ic hose was split. i have recently bought and fitted a new samco ic hose and new silicone vac hoses plus to top it all off a pp chip all fitted it was running over a bar and hit fuel cut . further inspection saw that actuator rod had been shortend to it max, so put the rod back to standard length and took the slack on the wastegate and a little more. took it out again and its at half a bar all the vac hoses seem to be correct with the (bodged up ) restrictor pill in the bottom hose (to filter). ive tried to up the boost to one bar using a bleed valve and it did it, but now its spluttering on full boost between .8 - 1.0 bar. i dont want to run the bleed valve to make it reach its target boost, it should do it with out it

help would be gratfull on this one please
car is a v2 sti ra usal mods full decat, apexi filter, ported turbo and headers, hks fcd, ssqv.
Old 15 September 2009, 02:17 PM
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Old 15 September 2009, 04:14 PM
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ive just swoped my coilpacks for a set i had spare and i found one to be cracked. i then took the car out and still no joy, its still holding back on full boost. i then did a cel check and it came up with a code 45, so i changed my pressure sensor and reset my ecu and still no joy. what can it be come on peeps in need some ideas
Old 15 September 2009, 11:21 PM
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Rob Day
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Speak to Brian or Andy at ScoobyTeknix:

Phone : 01253 871188
Mobiles : Andy (Spare Parts) 07788 128845
Mobiles : Brian (Garage Technical) 07949073355
Fax : 01253 878980

Email : sales@scoobyteknixuk.com
Website : Scoobyteknixuk Tuning Products Performance Parts Ecu Remap Pre-Used Parts Breakers Servicing
Old 16 September 2009, 10:40 AM
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swisstonihasher
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Where you say "further inspection saw that actuator rod had been shortend to it max, so put the rod back to standard length and took the slack on the wastegate and a little more. took it out again and its at half a bar", make sure you're not pulling on the waste gate, ie making it creep open or open already as this will drop your boost. It should be (as I understand it), not slack but also no pressure when rod attached, this should mean actuator is closed and will remain so until operated. It sounds like you have a few problems though, not just one.
Old 16 September 2009, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by UK300 PRODRIVE
Speak to Brian or Andy at ScoobyTeknix:

Phone : 01253 871188
Mobiles : Andy (Spare Parts) 07788 128845
Mobiles : Brian (Garage Technical) 07949073355
Fax : 01253 878980

Email : sales@scoobyteknixuk.com
Website : Scoobyteknixuk Tuning Products Performance Parts Ecu Remap Pre-Used Parts Breakers Servicing
thanks uk300 ill give them a try if i cant get it sorted
Old 16 September 2009, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by swisstonihasher
Where you say "further inspection saw that actuator rod had been shortend to it max, so put the rod back to standard length and took the slack on the wastegate and a little more. took it out again and its at half a bar", make sure you're not pulling on the waste gate, ie making it creep open or open already as this will drop your boost. It should be (as I understand it), not slack but also no pressure when rod attached, this should mean actuator is closed and will remain so until operated. It sounds like you have a few problems though, not just one.
i ment to say, i put the rod back to standard length and shortened it a little more so its holding the wastgate shut (good and propper). i disconnected the hks fuel cut defender and the factory fuel cut is cutting at .75 bar when it should be 1 bar or just a slight under. now scott t said the pp chip he provided will boost up to 1.15 bar on the new map, i dont know if the pp chip has a new fuel cut target . the car feels like its going some with it on full boost if i set the valve at .7 bar, just before it cuts. im just going of the boost gauge . im thinking the gauge is out but it an electric hks type with a pressure sensor off the inlet manifold then wired to the gauge so dont realy know how they work.

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Old 16 September 2009, 06:58 PM
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w13dle
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hi mate id try & get yourself a mechanical gauge as the electrical ones arn't the most accurate, i was told to set the actuator by aligning the hole on the rod half way across the pin so you have to pull it slightly to fit, i was going to sugest checking the speedo cable as sure ive read before these can put the car in limp mode but then again you say its ok with the fuel cut defender & dawes device, the fuel cut on the pp chip is about 18.2 psi
Old 16 September 2009, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by w13dle
hi mate id try & get yourself a mechanical gauge as the electrical ones arn't the most accurate, i was told to set the actuator by aligning the hole on the rod half way across the pin so you have to pull it slightly to fit, i was going to sugest checking the speedo cable as sure ive read before these can put the car in limp mode but then again you say its ok with the fuel cut defender & dawes device, the fuel cut on the pp chip is about 18.2 psi
yes thats how ive set the actuator, just had to pull it slightly to get it on. it will run no problem set at .7 bar on my gauge but if i turn the boost any higher it cuts, thats with out the hks fuel cut defender connected. its got to be the gauge, it got to be wrong, i hope it is, or is it
Old 16 September 2009, 08:04 PM
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You'd notice the feel of the car if she's not pulling the correct boost -does it feel bad? Gauge wrong, car will feel sluggish that's for sure.
Old 16 September 2009, 08:10 PM
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w13dle
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what is the actual ecu the car is running?
Old 16 September 2009, 08:47 PM
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What fuel are you running?

Tony
Old 16 September 2009, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by swisstonihasher
You'd notice the feel of the car if she's not pulling the correct boost -does it feel bad? Gauge wrong, car will feel sluggish that's for sure.
the car doesent feel to bad under the fuel cut target, slightly lacking maybe. im more consantrating on the gauge than the feel. i should have done all the pipes first then do the chip after
Old 16 September 2009, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by w13dle
what is the actual ecu the car is running?
its running the 7k ecu, all i had to do was plug the pp chip in and cut a resistor job done
Old 16 September 2009, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
What fuel are you running?

Tony
hi tony, im running v power and always have done. ive owned the car for over 2 years now and had no problems in the past
Old 16 September 2009, 09:16 PM
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Do you have anything like a knocklink/KS3 knock sensor fitted?
Thing is, it could be more than one problem and that could lead to other issues sometimes it does help to bite the bullet and go to a dealer/speciallist

Tony
Old 16 September 2009, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
Do you have anything like a knocklink/KS3 knock sensor fitted?
Thing is, it could be more than one problem and that could lead to other issues sometimes it does help to bite the bullet and go to a dealer/speciallist

Tony
i had a cel code 22 a month ago, a local subaru specialist put it down to the lambda sensor, so i replaced it with a bosch ls02 and that did not cure it, i then changed the knock sensor for a cheap one off ebay for only £35 and i brought the light straight back on, so on the bank holiday weekend i had to bite the bullet and get a genuine one. subaru did not have one so i made a 160 mile round trip to roger clark and bought a genuine one for £125 . i got home fitted it as well as some new ngk7s and it was working perfectly so i decided to replace the ic hose and vac pipes plus purchase a pp chip just to revitalise the old girl and here i am today
Old 17 September 2009, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dbay
i got home fitted it as well as some new ngk7s and it was working perfectly so i decided to replace the ic hose and vac pipes plus purchase a pp chip just to revitalise the old girl and here i am today
As TonyBurns says you may have a deeper problem.

IC hose, the only way you can go wrong is by not securing properly, this would lose you boost.

Vac pipes, not securing properly or connecting up wrongly, again will lose you boost. Have you used silicon replacements and are they of the same i/d??

PP chip, the only way you can get this wrong is by inserting it the wrong way around, ie the dimple at the wrong end.(don't even know if it would run at all in this case)

But as you are hitting cut (which has been raised by the PP chip) i can't see it being any of these things. So as TB says me thinks
Old 17 September 2009, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by b13bat
As TonyBurns says you may have a deeper problem.

IC hose, the only way you can go wrong is by not securing properly, this would lose you boost.

Vac pipes, not securing properly or connecting up wrongly, again will lose you boost. Have you used silicon replacements and are they of the same i/d??

PP chip, the only way you can get this wrong is by inserting it the wrong way around, ie the dimple at the wrong end.(don't even know if it would run at all in this case)

But as you are hitting cut (which has been raised by the PP chip) i can't see it being any of these things. So as TB says me thinks
hi b13bat, the ic pipe is sucured with micalar clamps and fit snug as a bug, and the vac pipes came off the same 2 meter roll so there the same id and sucured with cabel ties. so hopfully that part of the system is ok. i went to halfords today and bought a cheap boost gauge, i piped it in to a vac pipe nearest to the throttle boddie and just put it under the windscreen wiper blade with the hks one running at the same time. on the way home from work my hks gauge reads .7 bar and the halfords special reads 16psi so im thinking its the gauge. the only way to make sure is try another gauge to see if im getting the same reading as the halfords special.
Old 18 September 2009, 08:31 AM
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Sounds good to me, 1.1 bar

Bloody gauges

Last edited by Glowplug; 18 September 2009 at 08:34 AM.
Old 18 September 2009, 06:53 PM
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1.1 bar thats with the bleed valve tho , im thinking on a new restrictor pill as mine hasnt got a 2mm hole and just nipping the actuator a little more to try and stabelise it out at that
Old 18 September 2009, 07:24 PM
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Nowt wrong with a Dawes mate, i run one with my PP chip

Glad your sorted
Old 18 September 2009, 07:43 PM
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no your right as long as its used correctly. scott t said the pp target is 1.15 bar so going to try and do it with out the device. i know the fuel is correct so there is no harm. im on the quest for some new gauges now, im thinking boost, oil pressure, oil temp, afr, egt or do you think im going over the top
Old 18 September 2009, 08:09 PM
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Not OTT at all, i have AFR (narrowband) Oil temp and boost
Old 18 September 2009, 08:31 PM
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i just thought it may be a little chav, with all them gauges lit up at night it will be like blackpool iluminations
Old 18 September 2009, 10:13 PM
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On second thoughts, the EGT my not be needed only really useful if you have a cat fitted, which iirc you do not
Old 18 September 2009, 10:23 PM
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i was just filling space 3 on the pillar and 2 on my din above the wirless
Old 18 September 2009, 11:04 PM
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That just leave volt, amp or water temp then. I would rather see the holes filled You could go for a simple clock
Old 19 September 2009, 01:08 AM
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oil pressure, fuel pressure perhaps?
Old 19 September 2009, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dbay
...so i decided to replace the ic hose and vac pipes plus purchase a pp chip just to revitalise the old girl and here i am today
I'm sure you must've heard the phrase, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."?

Last edited by joz8968; 19 September 2009 at 11:30 AM.


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