britishbulldog

iTrader: (1)

i'm looking to obtain all the necessary parts for a forged
ej20 for my 96 wrx.

i'm looking to get a second engine built whilst keepin my
car on the road then do an engine swap.

not looking for silly power genuine 300/300 for now to make a reliable daily driver.

So any suggestions on brands to go for?

also apart from the rods, pistons, crank and bearings, what else is required for a short engine?

which are the best heads to go for?
cheers in advance

bigsinky

you can make 300/300 on standard internals pretty easily. why go the forged route when you don't have to.

britishbulldog

iTrader: (1)

because if i want more power later on i want the engine
to be able to handle it without having to rebuild it again.

so any recomendations for parts for a forged ej20, any point in
making it a 2.1?

britishbulldog

iTrader: (1)

bttt

petedotuk

As Sinky says 300/300+ is completly safe. No point in going forged untill you want to run a fair chunk more.

If going to hassle to built a forged short motor I would say go at least 2.1 no point in doing it and keeping the same cc. EngineTuner have exellent rates for their 2.1 builds including supppling CDB's.

Or if you want to buy the stroker kit and get the block machined http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Subaru-Competi...d=p3286.c0.m14

mr_D

iTrader: (12)

do it. at least you will be safe in the knowledge your engine can handle it. and there is nothing wrong with being prepared for the future.

i say go 2.1 stroker. or why not concider 2.5?

bluerigster

iTrader: (9)

Depends on your budget and what sort of power?. Many lower end priced forged items are made in the same factory and labelled with different brand names, such as Eagle H beam rods & Manely H beam rods are both made in a factory in China out of the same materials but Manley rods are sold at a higher price. Manley I beam rods however are made in America with a better material specification and are well known as being one of the strongest rods available, but come with a hefty price tag. So don't be sold by brand names only.
I'd look towards parts which support better bearing oiling such as a version 9 Spec C nitrided cross drilled crank and a larger newage 12mm rotor oil pump.
Lateral performance sell H beam conrods with a modified small end oiling hole to provide better lubrication to small end bearings. JE, Mahle and Wiseco pistons are good and not overly expensive compared to some.

As for displacement I'd stay with a 2 litre over a 2.1 or 2.5 as both become costly builds and do not rev as nicely as the 2 litre. But everyone likes their engine to perform differently, I prefer a longer rev range with a bigger power band over a torquey 2.5 litre with a smaller power band and very diesel like.

bigsinky

my 2.33 revs very nicely sir

britishbulldog

iTrader: (1)

that sounds like good advice to me, the key for me is to have a reliable
engine, rather than an engine pushed to its limits, so if a mapper could get 400 bhp out of the engine i would rather run a map with 370bhp, surely this would make for a more reliable motor, rather than trying to ring every last horse out of it? the better oiling definitely sounds like a good way to look at it

bigsinky

BB that's what costs the money. reliabilty. thats the key. glad to see you have a sensible head on. any fool can bolt bits on and make big hp claims. get it to run reliably week in week out, that truly takes skill and a lot of knowledge.

britishbulldog

iTrader: (1)

i would much rather run a reliable setup than wringing the neck of the engine and all the components as well. my aim is to get a well setup and
reliable daily driver, not interested in bragging rights down the pub.

no point in having a 500bhp car that needs a rebuild every 6 months.
i just dont see the point of running injectors and turbo etc at 100% of their capacity, surely thats just asking for trouble.

andy97

iTrader: (1)

I would not describe my 2.5 engine as diesel like. Yes there is loads more torque lower down, but it revs very nicely thankyou, even with standard uk heads