I've got a 95 WRX with a slanted intercooler on an EJ20G. Looking to upgrade it to a newer wrx classic model. Anyone have the tutorial to do this where you don't have to cut and weld part of the intercooler? Thanks.

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...-my95-wrx.html

I also have one for sale with the brackets and pipework, just removed from my 95 RA if your interested? See pic:

 

I appreciate it but I'm actually stationed in Japan right now.

oh and the pictures aren't available on that link.

 

to fit the sti6 intercooler you will have to blank of the o.e dumpvalve (ally weld)
and cut the lip off the i.c and throttle body
heres mine
intercooler conversion DIY :-)

old intercooler (crap1)


Ally weldin on the STI6 intercooler


Cutting down the throttle body (did not enjoy that bit)


The finished artical

 

Thanks for the info. I saw your post M@T, but I'm trying to find a modification where I don't need to weld anything. I'm pretty limited to welding where I'm at and can't locate anyone to aluminum weld anyways.

 

Thats not an sti 6 tmic M@T! Compare it to mine, which is!

 

what is it then 4/5???

 

Yep!

 

A lot of work for not a lot of gain.
Di it right and do it once. Fit an efficient FMIC.

 

I don't want to fit a fmic. I'm not doing any turbo/big engine upgrades to warrant a mod like that. I just wanted to upgrade the smaller slanty to a slightly larger model with out much mucking about.

 

Too much lag with front mount and mapping which then requires a new ecu etc etc and alot more £££ if not much bhp is gained,i did mine for better cooling rather than bhp gains.

 

in that case you`ll struggle to fit one properly,unless you use blanking plates/bolts rather than alloy welding,you dont need to trim the throttle body etc but it helps and reduces knocking of the TMIC on the bulkhead.

 

Not noticed any extra lag with my fmic really, but it's been mapped properly for it. Also, if you don't fit a facelift bonnet, and mod the undertray for the bigger tmic, then it's pointless doing it at all.

 

as you say,your FMIC was mapped etc so no lag as such.

you dont need a facelift bonnet, i managed to adjust a 2004 undertray to fit my pre-facelift bonnet no probs

 

 

I fitted one like the rig which is a my99 itercooler whish is basically a sti 4/5 they have the same cooling . Lets just say its a tight squeeze and a lot of hassel if you are not going to do any other mods and you might as well stick with the slanty one , if i had to do it again i would probably buy a front mount off Havey and be done with it , you either need to pick up a modded intercooler with all the samco hoses and fixing brackets ready for you or buy every thing individually which will add up and mod eg cutting down the intercooler outlet and cutting down your throttle body ect would spend £365 ish quid and buy the front mount or stick with the original , i sold my old one complete with every thing so you can use the original dump valve and brackets for £95 just to give you a guide , and then you require the later undertray for the scoop to intercooler .

Mark

 

Also, a new intake as well going fmic, mine was £140 for the apexi. So your looking at well over £500 for the fmic,intake and map, over £1000 with new ecu!
The only reason i say face lift bonnet, is it has a bigger opening.

 

my intercooler and pipe work set me back a whole £60 :-) result

 

Just to add a little bit of information. I fitted an STi 8 TMIC because everybody was raving about how good they were. That was not my experience and it was only after I fitted the undertray and STi 8 scoop that the performance was semi acceptable. A couple of days before I fitted the replacement front mount I did a rolling road run and got 392 bhp. ACT was 42 deg.C. A few days after fitting the front mount I did a rolling road run and got 401 bhp and the car was then mapped to give 410 bhp so 9 bhp from the colder air and another 9 bhp from the mapping. ACTs were 23 or 24 C from memory and that was on a day when the ambient temperature was much higher so there is no doubt in my mind that fitting a Hybrid FMIC and remapping will add more power but that was not why I added the front mount. I wanted stable ACTs compared to what I was getting from the STi 8 top mount.

 

Dont get me wrong, i dont doubt the front mount is the way to go,as your findings prove,its the relation of cost to power fo rme, the upgrade from slanty to my 2003 TMIC cost £100 and is probably 60% better than the slanty,wheras the front mount route which is 100% better than slanty is about £900 worth with new ecu/remap time etc

all depends on ya pocket i guess