anyone know what would cause a scooby to not idle propley when its cold it fires up for about 5 seconds to 1500 revs then it dies i have checked the idle control valve and it seems to be working ok the only way to get the revs up is by tapping the pedal to keep it running but once its warm it keep the revs its self but will sometimes stall when coming to lights or when coming upto a juntion or slowing down i am also getting slight popping noise when idel aswell like tiny miss fires

 

Was originally pulling your leg gently 5lider, but the underlying point is a serious one. If your posts are written in a way that makes them almost impossible for anyone else to understand, how much chance are you giving us to help you?

ps - Mods - were my original post and the subsequent reply(ies) really delete material? Has nobody round here got a sense of humour, and/or can you tell what he's asking?

 

i have updated the post for you splitpin

 

That`s your problem then

Why not put a picture up of the pipe you bought and how it`s fitted, including the connection to the Idle Control Valve.

 

no its not the pipe cos i assume even with the pipe it would die cos its getting air now just not through the fillter but i will be getting the right hose asap

 

Model/year?
Though it does sound like a thermostat problem.

Tony

 

hi tony its a 97 wrx import

 

Thanks for the edit 5lider. A couple of questions:

Firstly how does the engine behave if you unplug the connector to the idle speed control valve?

Secondly, you point out that the the engine is getting idle air, but "not through the filter". If the ISCV is sucking air straight in from the engine bay, then by definition it won't be going through the airflow sensor. This will cause the ECU all sorts of problems trying to set the mixture and could in itself explain what you're experiencing.

If I were in your shoes I'd get the ISCV reconnected properly as soon as you can and then see if that solves the problem. If it doesn't, let us know and we can go from there.

 

Recon engines in Essex who repaired my engine changed the air flow pipe and fitted the wrong one.

The pipe from the IAC has nowhere to go, and they sealed it off with layers of electrical tape. If I remove the tape the engine stalls.

If I disconnect the throttle sensor or the MAF sensor (as a test only) the engine speed hunts which would imply that both sensors are working.

Removing the IACV connector does nothing.

The pipe from IAC is sucking air all the time, which is probably why they sealed it off.
I thought that the idle air control valve should be closed when you put your foot on the pedal.

The valve should only open when the butterfly is closed. ie at idle to allow air into the engine.

Mine seems to be open all the time.

 

bump

this is the hose i dont have the correct pipe for and second picture is a pipe coming off the one with the jubalee clip on its the seocnd blue pipe from the top it goes to the white cover on which goes nowhere any idea if the pipes needs to go somewhere?

 

5lider, here's the silicone hose part that goes between your MAF and turbo intake hose. It's the cheapest I could find on eBay:-

SAMCO SILICONE AIRBOX HOSE SUBARU IMPREZA / LEGACY 80mm on eBay (end time 01-Sep-09 11:42:37 BST)



Another here:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Subaru-Imreza-...d=p3286.c0.m14



Or full kit, inc. intake pipe, here:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Subaru-WRX-GC8...d=p3286.c0.m14

 

Disconnecting the MAF sensor should cause it to stall, if the sensor is working.

 

Sounds like this should be down to them to source the correct pipework. Either way you need to plumb the ISCV intake back into the inlet pipe so that the air it gets has gone via the MAF sensor. That seems to be the root cause of your problem.

Yes, if you remove the tape the engine will ingest unmetered air from the engine bay. The resulting mixture imbalance stalls it.

No, that assumption is incorrect. The ECU won't shut the ISCV off when you open the throttle - so it will/should suck some air under all circumstances.

Sounds normal. It will close down a little bit as the throttle opens but won't shut.

Wrong. Wish folk would stop blindly repeating this well-intentioned but unhelpful b*llsh*t. Disconnecting the MAF will probably cause the engine to stall even if the sensor is broken, so this "test" proves nothing.

 

Splitpin, on the early MY93-96 cars, I think the ISCV return (if that's what it is? ) goes to the resonator box, which is upstream to the MAF i.e. therefore the air is unmetered.

Is the MY97/98's before the MAF, then?

 

No - just double-checked for certainty, 97-98 ISCV takes its air after the MAF. It's the inlet, btw, not a "return" - no need for a return on an idle valve.

With this pipe blocked, the engine wouldn't have been getting any idle air, which explains 5lider's original problem of the car dying unless the throttle was held open.

As soon as he unblocks the pipe it's then getting unmetered idle air so won't run properly due to the wrong mixture. Plumbing the idle valve back properly should sort it - and really it should be this Recon Engines mob taking care of things as it appears to be them who caused the problem in the first place.

 

No argument on that front.

 

thanks for replys guys.

i bought the correct pipe today and tried to fit into the turbo but i am having trouble removing manifold. i think the bolts are 12mm but some dont work they just jump the socket like the bolt is rounded off if i am right do i remove the 2 bolts each side of the 4 inlets?? then lift off and it should be easy to replace this pipe?