major coolant leak
#1
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major coolant leak
I have a 96 wrx, i was driving home from work tonight and
noticed the temp guage rising , it was not safe to stop where i was
so i pulled over as soon as i could (150/200yds) and turned the engine straight off, the temp guage was at max
i popped the bonnet and there was a big pool of coolant behind the
passenger headlight, underneath the overflow. just in front of the battery.
the coolant was way over the max mark in the overflow (i think it is an overflow?)
i was p**sed off so just left it and walked home cos luckily was
only about 15 mins away. just been back to pick it up, filled it with coolant and drove home, just taken the battery out to see if i can
see any splits in the pipe but its just gone dark
so am i dreaming when i cling to the hope that it maybe a split hose or loose clamp? what else could cause this?
the most i could find out tonight is that it is wettest underneath the overflow where the pipe from the rad and another larger black hose meet
the yellowy plastic overflow thing (cracking description hey?)
i await any other suggestions that will no doubt involve my wages for the
forseeable future
noticed the temp guage rising , it was not safe to stop where i was
so i pulled over as soon as i could (150/200yds) and turned the engine straight off, the temp guage was at max
i popped the bonnet and there was a big pool of coolant behind the
passenger headlight, underneath the overflow. just in front of the battery.
the coolant was way over the max mark in the overflow (i think it is an overflow?)
i was p**sed off so just left it and walked home cos luckily was
only about 15 mins away. just been back to pick it up, filled it with coolant and drove home, just taken the battery out to see if i can
see any splits in the pipe but its just gone dark
so am i dreaming when i cling to the hope that it maybe a split hose or loose clamp? what else could cause this?
the most i could find out tonight is that it is wettest underneath the overflow where the pipe from the rad and another larger black hose meet
the yellowy plastic overflow thing (cracking description hey?)
i await any other suggestions that will no doubt involve my wages for the
forseeable future
#2
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Most people will bounce and shout HEAD GASKET. This is of course, worst case senario. You could have airlock, blocked or cracked rad.
Ideally you should get it to a subaru specialist to have a good look.
Mine turned out to be the rad - £60 for a new one and never got hot since. I was told 100% head gasket by a well known subaru specialist. New rad solved it... Don't take your engine out unless you get everything else checked out first.
Try filling it with coolant through the turbo hose with a funnel(from the highest point) Remove the small hose from the rad to header tank (from rad end) When the coolant flows from the rad, replace hoses and top up tank. This will eliminate any airlock.
HTH
Tucker
Ideally you should get it to a subaru specialist to have a good look.
Mine turned out to be the rad - £60 for a new one and never got hot since. I was told 100% head gasket by a well known subaru specialist. New rad solved it... Don't take your engine out unless you get everything else checked out first.
Try filling it with coolant through the turbo hose with a funnel(from the highest point) Remove the small hose from the rad to header tank (from rad end) When the coolant flows from the rad, replace hoses and top up tank. This will eliminate any airlock.
HTH
Tucker
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I had the same problem and it did turn out to be the headgasket. But i would follow the above advice first as it cheaper.
Or you could go to a garage and get them to put that probe they test emissions with into the water system to see if any reading come up. Cost my £5 to get it tested and that confirmed the headgasket.
Or you could go to a garage and get them to put that probe they test emissions with into the water system to see if any reading come up. Cost my £5 to get it tested and that confirmed the headgasket.
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CHEERS
CUBE320 - Thanks for advise on how to refill without getting airlock.
i have had my mechanic mate drain and refill the coolant this morning,
he said to keep an eye on it and if gets hot again will replace rad as first step.
drove it to work this morning, temp stayed normal, no leaking
thinking back, i had topped up the header tank before leaving work, i
am hoping this caused an airlock which has now gone.
fingers crossed it doesnt happen again, if it does and it turns out to be headgasket, how much am i looking at for a reconditioned enginer from api or the like? should i just get a standard build or is it worth getting uprated internals for piece of mind, i am assuming if i was to get a built motor with race bearings, forged etc. and run it on standard ish power then it would last longer than a standard build? its just for piece of mind really cos i
hate thinkin "is it gonna break" every time i drive it.
thanks for advice anyway will keep u updated.
i have had my mechanic mate drain and refill the coolant this morning,
he said to keep an eye on it and if gets hot again will replace rad as first step.
drove it to work this morning, temp stayed normal, no leaking
thinking back, i had topped up the header tank before leaving work, i
am hoping this caused an airlock which has now gone.
fingers crossed it doesnt happen again, if it does and it turns out to be headgasket, how much am i looking at for a reconditioned enginer from api or the like? should i just get a standard build or is it worth getting uprated internals for piece of mind, i am assuming if i was to get a built motor with race bearings, forged etc. and run it on standard ish power then it would last longer than a standard build? its just for piece of mind really cos i
hate thinkin "is it gonna break" every time i drive it.
thanks for advice anyway will keep u updated.
#6
Its worth changing the rad cap for a known good one. Very often they dont suck the water back into the header tank from the overflow when the car is switched off and left to cool. Then over time air locks can occur. Also check thermostat. These are cheap things to try before you fork out on gaskets.
The easiest way to check for a problem is to brim the header tank when cold. Then start the car with the header cap off. Let the air escape. When the water starts to overflow due to the heat put the cap on. Top up the overflow between the L and F line (by the battery) and poke the little pipe which gies to nothing into a coke can and cable tie the coke can in position. Then take the car for a blast and use plenty of boost.
Come back and see if there is any water in the can. If there is you defo have problems.
The easiest way to check for a problem is to brim the header tank when cold. Then start the car with the header cap off. Let the air escape. When the water starts to overflow due to the heat put the cap on. Top up the overflow between the L and F line (by the battery) and poke the little pipe which gies to nothing into a coke can and cable tie the coke can in position. Then take the car for a blast and use plenty of boost.
Come back and see if there is any water in the can. If there is you defo have problems.
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