Sorry for not posting this in 'Wheels and Brakes' but need a quick response..

Tried to do a f-r swap this afternoon and rear n/s alloy (super legg) appears to have welded itself to the hub, arrghhh ****..!

Tried all the tricks I know of, rubber mallet, dropping the car down on the jack with 'loose' nuts, rolling it forward a bit even tried a little 'freeway' oil (careful not to contaminate brake surfaces..) and nothing, bloody nothing..!

Now the only other thing I'm sure I've heard someone do before is drive it around with 'loose' nuts, but TBH I don't fancy that..!

For now the f-r swap can wait, but the rear pads are getting very close to min, so it's going to have to come off soon. Then there's the problem of a possible puncture situation at the road side..!

I'll be using some copper grease from now on BTW..!

HELP..

 

I had this battle just last month - not much fun!

 

When this happened to mine i had to resort to booting the tyre at the top (inwards),wiggling it left and right,then kicking it again (kick it with the sole of your shoe).

 

I would have thought that anything invloving loose nuts and a lot of moving weight was not a good idea, it could result in broken wheel studs. Maybe take the car to a tyre fitter and explain the problem, they may know trick of the trade.

 

Me too, get it jacked up real sturdy and kick it in turn at 12 o clock then 3, 6, 9 give it a wiggle, keep doing it, it'll come off but might take you a short while!

 

Swearing usually helps too

 

Had the same problem a few months back (too much powder coat on spigot area of rim) Tried all of the above with no luck. Managed to shift mine by using a piece of 2x2 wood and a scissor jack between the two back wheels. Used small planks of wood to protect the rims/tyres. As you open the jack the load is transferred between the two wheels moving the one with slack nuts. This worked for me.

 

Did a very similar thing. Just make sure the car is well supported. I went across the underneath of the car and slowly wound the jack until the wheel gave. Then rotated the wheel and repeated again. It's worth getting someone to give you a hand to keep everything in line. Good luck mate !

 

Put the boot in and don't be shy about it. Just make sure the car is well supported. Also be sparing with the copper grease, I put a little too much on mine once and it marked the inside rim of the alloys.

 

not trying hard enough? lol

 

How about a bit of heat. Use a gas torch to warm wheel carefully around the spigot area to make it expand a bit. Take plastic centre cap out first. You could also spray a bit of WD40 on the spigot through the centre hole.

 

Failing that, Driving around with slightly loose nuts will probably do the trick without too much risk to nuts/hub.

Find a nice open space, loosen all then nuts slightly and put it on full left lock, drive round in cicles a few times. We had to do that at work the other day as one was stuck firm.

peter

 

Right after trying various techniques involving pieces of wood and deadblow hammers etc all to no avail some sagely advice from API David I sorted it in about 3 seconds..!

Basically and for future reference, sit on your bottom facing the wheel }=0 about a leg length away and with the soles of your feet kick the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock until it just falls off. I never thought for one second that it would work (having failed with so many other methods) yet within three kicks it just fell off..

Thanks David..

 

Yup have to do the 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock alternate bangs on every e39 BMW 5 series I have to take the wheels off.

But I use a VERY large rubber mallet with the ramp set at waist height. Once I did this with all the wheelnuts removed and the wheel came off, bounced off the ramp and rolled out the workshop, me chasing after it So best advised to do this with at least one wheelnut kept on loosely.

 

I did say to put the boot in. As they say, no guts no glory. Sometimes it can go wrong though