Basically, i wana know if theres anything else i should really do before i purchase a simtek ecu & go for mapping - or anything youd advise or i could benefit from?

apexi power intake
harvey smith turbo + ceramic coated ex housing
hybrid fmic

3' turbo back pipe - no cats
gt spec headers + up pipe - ceramic coated

walbro 255
fuel labs FPR
scoobymania 740cc injectors

lightened pullys
5.4kg flywheel
uprated clutch

will be run on simtek + apexi AVCR

Things that iv thought i MAY benefit from are...

zerosports cool stat?
oil cooler (19 row+ front mount)?
silicon inlet hose perhaps?
parallel fuel rail mod?

cars a 99 uk turbo, goal is 350/350 ish im more interested in torque then bhp

 

first off dump the 740 injectors there way ott, 550's will do it (350) with ease.

im at 340bhp on 440's with no need for a fpr, so you can prob get rid of that as well.

dump the apexi if your running simtek, no point in two ecu systems.

personaly i'd go for a solaris over a simtek, its more expensive but a more capable ecu (not that the simtek isn't).

oil cooler yes, rest don't bother with at that power level. at 350 your gearbox is gonna be pushed pretty far and may go bang.

 

picked the injectors up cheap so assumed theyde be 'chilling out' running my bhp? and theres potential for more if i go for a forged rebuild later in life. same with FPR - was cheap so rather use that then the stock. are the injectors going to cause a problem, as i thought not? seen people running similar power. power goal its just guessimate, its probably gonna make more i think your stretching the legs of the 500's the furher you creep to the 400 mark

avcr gives me a user interface for controlling boost, i cant map cars so cant mess with boost without a laptop - and its one less thing to set up when mapping, and its only a boost controller

gearbox - considered. there is method behind my madness

 

[QUOTE=Tidgy;8727770]
personaly i'd go for a solaris over a simtek, its more expensive but a more capable ecu (not that the simtek isn't).

[QUOTE]

also, are you saying this as you are using one, and have ran simtek in the past so you are able to compare the two? if so, whats your experience on both ecu's?


or are you telling me what youve read on here?

ta
jon

 

the injectors might be too big, you'll have to get some advice on that, there is a point at which there too slow reacting as i understand it.

simtek will have boost control in it, i wouldn't bother dicking around with it once its mapped properly.

 

Swirl pot for the fuel system and a 044 pump

 

swirl pot is way ott for 350

 

ttt

 

Nonsense, It has nothing to do with power output

Now try driving fast with less than half a tank, If you did you would know you encounter fuel surge

 

Probably not needed, but before i started upping the power, i did all the 'safety' mods first, IE inlet insulators, header tank insulators, parallel fuel rail mod, fuel and oil pump etc. The inlet was much cooler after the insulators were fitted, keeping charge temps down, which can't be bad.
Would it be worth ditching the breather system, and go VTA'd? With the higher boost, chances are you'll draw more oil into the intake.
Also, what about PF7B plugs?
172, does the swirl pot help? I've never experienced fuel surge(yet!)

 

manifold insulators really a must though?

oil pump slipped my mind...not sure how big a job they are though.
breather system - as in oil catch? sorted.
plugs are HKS

 

i run 340 with none of those issues, so go figure

 

Yeah i was getting it bad at Cadwell, hopefully ill get one sorted soon.

It would seem the only real way to stop it is a swirl pot and additional pump. Its a shame Subaru didnt do more with the std tank.......

 

Do some research fella, that way you will realise its got nothing to do with how much power you have

 

I don't think you 'need' an oil cooler or swirl pot on a road car.

I agree with 172 that a swirl pot has little to do with power, but rather how hard it is driven out of bends.

If plans are to take onto track, then both are excellent/must mods (or you have money to burn and want to make the 'complete' car).

I also agree with Mit, and would be more tempted by the 'safety' mods like the parrallel mod for engine safety and doesn't cost much. Insulators all help although not a necessity. Zerosports thermostat would also be on my list. Absolute must would be modified oil pump by RCM or APi.

 

I would seriously think of doing the brakes first, the standard discs/pads suck, even with uprated discs and pads at 350bhp its going to struggle to slow you down.
My first MY00 had the brakes changed and she was only running 250bhp and that was too much for the standard items

Tony

 

ECU - the solaris will monitor for det and will pull the timing itself where as the simtec will flash the ECL and warn the driver (when you give it beans do you watch out for CEL light) i know quite a few people who have never looked at the light when in full race.

Solaris for me definitely, it is worth th extra pounds without a doubt. I have been in cars running all sorts of ECU's and for Value for money the solaris is hard to beat.


Oil - is a major deciding factor for our flat engines, and anything that can help assist the oil i.e. keep it cool and pressureised will be a bonus as a engine rebuild is only £2000 for a standard build (loadsa money).

Stopping power - oh yes you need to stop and looking at the power level your aiming for i would say a good 4 pot setup will suffice i would even go for brembo subaru 4 pot calipers will be upto the job as long as your pads and discs are carefully selected (speak to High Performance Brakes - Supplying AP and Brembo brake kits for road and motorsport use - Ian Godney) he will give you something decent.

Hmm did i miss anything else?

 

I've just fitted drilled/grooved front/rear discs and mintex extreme pads all round, i can't believe how rubbish the standard pads disc combo was in comparison on my 4 pots.

 

Using the subaru 4 pot calipers? oh and what brand discs?

 

Yep, standard 4 pots with evo sport discs, cheap, but does the job. Had them on my last scoob, after the ebc ones warped and cracked!

 

330mm K-sports all round do ?

 

il probably end up with solaris one day...just need to save for it.

 

I don't think you need the AVCR with either the Simtek or Solaris...I can't think of anything else at the mo but have a butchers at my project thread, I've tried to approach moding from a holistic perspective so there are breaking, chassis and power mods

 

Thing is though, iv bought it, and im not a mapper so it gives me a user interface to control my boost rather then fubaring a map trying to alter boost. thats the way i see it. il read your project

 

Wrighty you will not need to touch boost settings with either Ecu mate in my opinion, you could sell the AVCR and make some money back, there's a market out there for them so you aint bought anything which cannot be used or people don't want.

Unless you use a power fc ECU then the avcr's are a god send. Before making any further decisions speak to the mapper you want mapping your car as he/she will tell you what will work best as after all we could all be wrong and the mapper may just say good choice. After all it's what you want and your paying.

Good Luck with the mods.

 

what about an upgraded rad

 

possibly, looked at the japspeed ones but some are saying there are fitment issues?

i cant see temps been an issue with a zerosports stat, reverse scoop, max flow grill etc..everything should be staying pretty cool. if i get an oil cooler aswell, this will save the coolant some taxing...