What grade oil ....
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Millers is ok, motul is better 
You can use 10w40 semi or a 5w40 fully synth (though not recommended if the car is a high mileage example thats been run of semi synth all its life), dont go above a 50 grade, its not recommended by subaru (and i doubt the oil pump will like 10w60 in there) and dont use a 30 grade either (like 5w30).
Tony
You can use 10w40 semi or a 5w40 fully synth (though not recommended if the car is a high mileage example thats been run of semi synth all its life), dont go above a 50 grade, its not recommended by subaru (and i doubt the oil pump will like 10w60 in there) and dont use a 30 grade either (like 5w30).
Tony
Last edited by TonyBurns; May 13, 2009 at 06:33 AM.
how come you think the oil pump will not like 10w 60 fully synth as i ve been using this for a year now since i had a real build and it does not burn a drop, i have a roger Clarke oil pump to and i was recommend to use this buy the guys who rebuilt my scooby
I've just ordered some silkolene pro s 10W 50 for my 94 WRX. I have been using 10W 40 for a while though.
I was recommended to use either, as long as they were a good quality.
I was recommended to use either, as long as they were a good quality.
10W-40 and 10W-50 are perfect for the Classic. Good move to go to 10W-50 in this up-coming decent summer (finger's crossed 
).
See here for a scientific 'white paper' on engine oils. It also explains why a modern '60' weight isn't required, and it's potential detrimental effects, etc.-
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...-answered.html
).See here for a scientific 'white paper' on engine oils. It also explains why a modern '60' weight isn't required, and it's potential detrimental effects, etc.-
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...-answered.html
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
(and yes 10w60 is about 60% thicker than a 50 rated oil at the same temp)
Tony
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Can't see anything in that article about why 10w/60 is so bad? All it says is:
"The whole point of these Winter ratings is to assist cold starts, to get the oil circulating quickly, and to avoid power and fuel wasting drag as the engine warms up. Once it is warmed up, the 100C ratings count. There are 5 of these, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 although why anybody bothers with 60 in the 21st Century is a mystery to me! "
Not very informative.
Subaru don't advise 10w/60, but then they don't have engines outputting some of the levels seen on here. It gets through my pump ok
All I'd say is choose your oil depending on engine size, level of mods and whether it gets a lot of track/motorway use. Even consider an oil cooler to help control temperatures without going thicker.
nick
"The whole point of these Winter ratings is to assist cold starts, to get the oil circulating quickly, and to avoid power and fuel wasting drag as the engine warms up. Once it is warmed up, the 100C ratings count. There are 5 of these, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 although why anybody bothers with 60 in the 21st Century is a mystery to me! "
Not very informative.
Subaru don't advise 10w/60, but then they don't have engines outputting some of the levels seen on here. It gets through my pump ok
All I'd say is choose your oil depending on engine size, level of mods and whether it gets a lot of track/motorway use. Even consider an oil cooler to help control temperatures without going thicker.
nick
Can't see anything in that article about why 10w/60 is so bad? All it says is:
"The whole point of these Winter ratings is to assist cold starts, to get the oil circulating quickly, and to avoid power and fuel wasting drag as the engine warms up. Once it is warmed up, the 100C ratings count. There are 5 of these, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 although why anybody bothers with 60 in the 21st Century is a mystery to me! "
Not very informative.
Subaru don't advise 10w/60, but then they don't have engines outputting some of the levels seen on here. It gets through my pump ok
All I'd say is choose your oil depending on engine size, level of mods and whether it gets a lot of track/motorway use. Even consider an oil cooler to help control temperatures without going thicker.
nick
"The whole point of these Winter ratings is to assist cold starts, to get the oil circulating quickly, and to avoid power and fuel wasting drag as the engine warms up. Once it is warmed up, the 100C ratings count. There are 5 of these, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 although why anybody bothers with 60 in the 21st Century is a mystery to me! "
Not very informative.
Subaru don't advise 10w/60, but then they don't have engines outputting some of the levels seen on here. It gets through my pump ok
All I'd say is choose your oil depending on engine size, level of mods and whether it gets a lot of track/motorway use. Even consider an oil cooler to help control temperatures without going thicker.
nick
PM/email Oilman. He'll give you the lowdown.
Amongst other things, a '60' can cause cavitation at high rpms - bad news for big ends.
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
One of the best examples of the differences in oil (abiet cold) was at a vauxhall garage, they had 3 tubes with 3 different grades of oil in (a 5, 10 and 15 w). As we all know these are the cold ratings so the 40/50/60 won't apply here, but the principle is the same if measured at 100 deg C.
Each tube was full and contained a ball bearing, each tube was identical and those bearings were all of the same weight.
So starting at the 15w oil, you turned the tube over, then the 10, then the 5.
Of course the 5 hit the bottom first, then the 10, then the 15, and there was quite some delay between the 3.
Imagine the same between a 40, 50 and 60 rated oil....
Tony
Each tube was full and contained a ball bearing, each tube was identical and those bearings were all of the same weight.
So starting at the 15w oil, you turned the tube over, then the 10, then the 5.
Of course the 5 hit the bottom first, then the 10, then the 15, and there was quite some delay between the 3.
Imagine the same between a 40, 50 and 60 rated oil....
Tony
If it stated what the bearing temps are SPECIFICALLY on a Subaru boxer for a range of power outputs, then I would pay attention to it if good SAE 60 (particularly Millers
) was shown to result in a problem.Nick
nothing happend to my engine i done the head gaskest so i though i might as well put some nice internal in, seen as it was out so i could run bigger power as mine is a 97 wrx 352.bhp 342ft . should be getting more with some headers and injectors, have a look at my spec in my garage, so your all saying i should go for 10w 50 fully snyth
man oil is the mother of all question which will rage on for ever i now people who put 15w 50 in but have spun bearings and doen damge and people who put 10w 40 in which blow the bottom end and evo,s with there 10w 50 and 10 w 40 with stilll the same issue
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