raj18_432

Hi guys I’m a newbie and a complete novice to Scoobies.

I’ve brought an early import classic from a m8 of mine which needs a rebuild as the bottom ends gone. https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...about-car.html

As I know next to nothing about these cars, what are the essentials parts that should be replaced when getting the rebuild done and what should be upgraded? I want to get as much power out of the car as possible without spending an arm and a leg.

The guy that is carrying the work out is a specialist and has quoted about £1000 for labour and around £500 for parts. Is this about right?

So guys what are your top tips? In plain English please!

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

The most important thing is to use a BRAND NEW crankshaft - no reground nonsense - Scoob's hate 'em!

Obviously, all big end and main bearing shells too.

You'll soon get a load of advice - so be patient.

You can do a lot worse than to email/PM APIDavid - engine building is his thang!

Pavlo

£500 on parts is too cheap, and would mean corners beign cut, you should really budget about £1500 or more on parts to do a proper job.

Check the DIY engine rebuild project thread started by Silent_Running in the projects forum.

Neil..

iTrader: (35)

Depending on the skills of 'the specialist', it might be safer and more cost effective to buy a brand new bottom end from subaru, not that expensive surprisingly..

Then allow for new oil pump, water pump,cam belt, oil modine and genuine gasket set.

Another alternative would be to get a good quality used motor from a decent Subaru breaker, who also fits them. That way you will have some sort of guarantee with it when done, although it will never be as good as a new build.

Whereabouts are you based?

s20pe

I have just fitted a low millage motor bught it off ebay 6 month garrantee fitted it myself and a mate engine cost £1000 + new pump's cam belt's gasget's oil etc add another £300 took us 2.5 days have a look at my profile , motors sounds sweet If your on a buget this is the way to go just had a look hes got another up for £750 item no 280299767177 I would recomend good luck

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Its simple, the donts are the easiest, dont leave anything in the engine that was in there originally as the chances are one of those parts caused the problem.
Do replace everything! this includes the oil pump!

Tony

raj18_432

Im based in Worthing, West sussex

mje_wrx

iTrader: (6)

im rebuilding my self, its on the projects, wrx forged rebuild. ive spend £1800 so far and still need a few more bits costing about 300 to get running, but then i have the cost of mods such as headers, up pipe n turbo, as well as ecu, remaps and suspension mods and brakes to handle more power.

as iv gone forged my engine is good for over 400bhp if i wanted 2 add supporting mods. but gearbox would have 2 be changed and add support mods.

best bet is too get a figure bhp / ibf you want to run and boys on here will give u a nice spec sheet to work off. so u know where ur going.

raj18_432

i would like to be running about 300bhp, just a bit above that if possible.

so what would i be looking at in order to acheive that?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

-Walbo 255l/h fuel pump (old one might be tired - so this is a safety mod if nothing else, as well as having more than enough flow)
-Decent panel filter e,g, Green (or at least a brand new OEM paper job)
-OEM-fitment 440cc yellow injectors upgrade
-'One level' colder NGK PFR7B spark plugs (to help manage the cylinders' raised heat/pressures)
-Mappable ECU running about 1.3-1.4bar boost (if you have a pre-MY97 car you'll also need an uprated MAP sensor from the MY97/98 car)
-2.5" decat downpipe (can go to 3" but not necessary)
-2.5" full exhaust system (can go to 3" but not necessary)

Oh, and I'd stick a brand new OEM fuel filter on, to be doubly safe.

I think that's right, isn't it?

raj18_432

Ok my cars already got an custom exhaust so that’s not a problem.

I’ve found out prices about most of the stuff but could not find out about the ECU, how much is that likely to be? (including Remap)

One more question, (by the way I might sound like a complete novice) to get around 300 bhp, would i need to faugh the engine and up rate the cam, pistons etc?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Lots of ECU options - what year is your car? Answer this, then we can go from there.

For 300bhp, no engine internals need replacing/uprated.

raj18_432

its an 93 on a L (import)

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

-Cheapest is the ESL Live daughterboard @ 525 +VAT
-Next is Apexi Power FC @ 795 + VAT
-Next is Simtek @ 895 + VAT

All the above can be supplied, fitted and mapped by Jolly Green Monster aka Simon. He can travel to you to do the mapping (pay for his fuel on top).

There are a few other, more professional, options - with features that are prob a bit overkill for a road car (unless you go for a monster tune). But their prices reflect this.

raj18_432

Ok a quick question about the ECU.

Would an ECU chip upgrade be sufficient? Some1 told me about this guy;

Products

i think its called a scooby ECU daughter board or something.

So would this work, and what are the advantages and disadvantages?

Thanks Guys

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

yeah raj, the 2nd option down is what you need - where the heading is the Enduring Solutions logo (hence 'ESL'). It's the same thing as what I posted above i.e....

"...-Cheapest is the ESL Live daughterboard @ 525 +VAT..."

As the name suggests, it's a daughterboard bit of hardware that gets fitted into your existing ECU to magically turn it into a mappable ECU! Because it's all OEM-based, your ECU behaves exactly as the factory intended e.g. using all the OEM input/output sensors, etc... .

One excellent feature which it retains is the 'IAM' (Ignition Advance Multiplier). Basically the ECU can optimise the timing based on what the various sensors are telling it. So, it will also retard the timing if anything's awry, thus potentially saving your engine. A very worthwhile feature to keep hold of, IMHO.

KLR16V

iTrader: (2)

If he is only after about 300bhp and on a budget then 1st option is a lot cheaper option , he can retain standard fuel pump , standard injectors , standard clutch and gearbox .This also uses all the standard sensors and protects the engine in the same way eg check light ,limp home mode .
If he wants over 300bhp option two is required , but also requires possible fuel pump , larger injectors , larger intercooler , uprated clutch and poss gearbox depending how far he wants to go .

Depends on how deep his pockets are and what his target is .

Mark

raj18_432

Ok so if I’ve got an up rated fuel pump and injectors would I still be able to use the cheaper option and still get the best out of my engine?

I think my car also got an after mark clutch, will find out once the engine is out.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

if you choose the top option then that is an unmappable chip, which is fine if you don't wish to get add more mods later to get more power. BTW, with the usual bolt-on supporting mods, the PP chip is prob good for about 280bhp on average... 300bhp if you're lucky.

The 2nd ESL option is the fully mappable, so is the one-stop-shop future proof option...

KLR16V

iTrader: (2)

As above says just depends how far you wish to take car .

Mark

raj18_432

Ok i think i get it.

So at the moment to keep the rebuild cost down the cheaper option is probably the best one and i could change it at a later date if i wanted right?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Sure, and you'll prob get a decent price for it whEn you sell it on too - to help fund a mappbale ECU.

Polar Performance chipped replacement ECU for sale here:-

https://www.scoobynet.com/private-sa...-itself-2.html

You simply just swap over your existing ECU in the footwell for this one.

Thing is though, if you are able to extend to a fully mappable option, then I'd do so. Seems ideal to have a freshly built motor to be perfectly mapped etc - i.e. never subjected to potential det...