stroker kits..
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From: East Barnet/southgate on the borders of North London and Hertfordshire
Normally involve a longer throw crank, pistons and rods to match the crank.
Generaly the cylinders need some machineing too
Generaly the cylinders need some machineing too
If using an old type block (centre thrust bearing) you would have to have this block machined to accept the newer 79MM crank from a 2.5 Litre engine as the newer crank is a rear thrust bearing.
But as mentioned above the stroker kit consists of a Larger Crank and Rods (these are what make the actual kit a stroker) the pistons, rings, and Gudgeon pins are just part of the overall package.
Hope that helps....
But as mentioned above the stroker kit consists of a Larger Crank and Rods (these are what make the actual kit a stroker) the pistons, rings, and Gudgeon pins are just part of the overall package.
Hope that helps....
Last edited by STI_Baly; Dec 28, 2008 at 10:49 AM.
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From: 10.68 QT mile in 2007 2.33 Type R ** Current 2002 Spec C 2.33 Track prepped.
Stoking an engine simply means increasing the cranks throw/stroke thus allowing the piston to travel further down the bore resulting in an increased displacement. The use of longer rods in Subaru stroker kits generally 1mm are also designed to reduce the side loading on the piston resulting in a lower frictional loss. Standard rod lengths in some instances are used depending on the piston choice and set up, rings will always be supplied with pistons unless specified will remain the same.
Not all phase 1 blocks have to be machined, some other options to house the end thrust cranks which can result in dual, end or centre thrust bearings being fitted however all options would require machining of some sort.
The 2.1 is a cost effective option for people considering a cheaper engine that can cope with high power figures in comparison to the 2.33 and 2.5.
Not all phase 1 blocks have to be machined, some other options to house the end thrust cranks which can result in dual, end or centre thrust bearings being fitted however all options would require machining of some sort.
The 2.1 is a cost effective option for people considering a cheaper engine that can cope with high power figures in comparison to the 2.33 and 2.5.
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