loss of boost
#1
loss of boost
iv recently changed my BOV to a forge one and ever since it seems that the car hasnt been as responsive, plus iv noticed recently that if i put my foot down in second it seems to accelerate and then suddenly lose boost before it used to do.
its a wrx 93 import, no mods that i know of
matt
its a wrx 93 import, no mods that i know of
matt
#2
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I have the same car with the same dv and have had zero problems. Check all the related pipework and make vsure you have no splits or that you didnt dislodge something when fitting dv. Give the BCS a clean out with brake cleaner. Make sure you have the correct spring fitted in the dv. If that is all ok then refit the oe dv and see if it solves the problem, if you suspect the forge after this then contact Forge
, they are very helpful people
, they are very helpful people
Last edited by Glowplug; 03 December 2008 at 02:29 PM.
#4
what boost are you running?? you can find out the spring colour rating on the forge web site.
Ive just striped and cleaned my DV because of a very very simular problem, it had a yellow sping and have gone 1 up to a blue spring. im running 1.3 bar and the car has never run better.
Ive just striped and cleaned my DV because of a very very simular problem, it had a yellow sping and have gone 1 up to a blue spring. im running 1.3 bar and the car has never run better.
#5
im not sure what boost its on at the mo.as far as i know its standard...any1 know what standard boost should be?
any1 reccomend a good boost gauge?dont want a flash one, just one that works well
any1 reccomend a good boost gauge?dont want a flash one, just one that works well
#7
If you loosing boost, I have to agree with b13bat, it sounds like you venting to atmosphere through a bad connection or damaged pipe. If you took your intercooler tubes off (y-pipe or single) then you’ll need a new gasket, or a liquid gasket.
I only say this because ANY forge dv will blow at a pre-determined pressure exceeding your cars capabilities (0.79 of a bar), and if your car is having difficulty at the start of the boost phase, then it’s related to a weakness in the system rather than a problem with a “top of the line” dv. You can try changing the spring, but I fear this would only be for waiting time.
Importantly, when you get a boost gauge, and if you’re venting to atmos, your ECU or boost controller will have a hard time keeping the boost constant (look for the wobble in the dial).
Hope this helps.
I only say this because ANY forge dv will blow at a pre-determined pressure exceeding your cars capabilities (0.79 of a bar), and if your car is having difficulty at the start of the boost phase, then it’s related to a weakness in the system rather than a problem with a “top of the line” dv. You can try changing the spring, but I fear this would only be for waiting time.
Importantly, when you get a boost gauge, and if you’re venting to atmos, your ECU or boost controller will have a hard time keeping the boost constant (look for the wobble in the dial).
Hope this helps.
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#9
checked leaks, couldnt find anything at all..just spoke to forge and they are sending me out a kit with some different springs in and some shims to see if that helps..must admit their customer service is top notch
matt
matt
#12
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If you loosing boost, I have to agree with b13bat, it sounds like you venting to atmosphere through a bad connection or damaged pipe. If you took your intercooler tubes off (y-pipe or single) then you’ll need a new gasket, or a liquid gasket.
I only say this because ANY forge dv will blow at a pre-determined pressure exceeding your cars capabilities (0.79 of a bar), and if your car is having difficulty at the start of the boost phase, then it’s related to a weakness in the system rather than a problem with a “top of the line” dv. You can try changing the spring, but I fear this would only be for waiting time.
Importantly, when you get a boost gauge, and if you’re venting to atmos, your ECU or boost controller will have a hard time keeping the boost constant (look for the wobble in the dial).
Hope this helps.
I only say this because ANY forge dv will blow at a pre-determined pressure exceeding your cars capabilities (0.79 of a bar), and if your car is having difficulty at the start of the boost phase, then it’s related to a weakness in the system rather than a problem with a “top of the line” dv. You can try changing the spring, but I fear this would only be for waiting time.
Importantly, when you get a boost gauge, and if you’re venting to atmos, your ECU or boost controller will have a hard time keeping the boost constant (look for the wobble in the dial).
Hope this helps.
I have that problem with the boost gauge dial wobbling,it was doing it before i fitted an atmos bov.
Why is that??
#14
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#15
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You can get replacement T-pieces/straight couplers that have tiny bores, and this stops the needle from fluttering about (some have miniature air filters in that do the same job)... This could be the problem
I too have a Motor Meter electro-mechanical gauge and fitted the NoBuzz black plastic T-piece tee'd into the existing vac hose that goes from the IM to the OEM Lamco boost gauge, and the needle is smooth-as...
I too have a Motor Meter electro-mechanical gauge and fitted the NoBuzz black plastic T-piece tee'd into the existing vac hose that goes from the IM to the OEM Lamco boost gauge, and the needle is smooth-as...
Last edited by joz8968; 12 December 2008 at 09:40 PM.
#17
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Got it off eBay from this vendor: eBay UK Shop - Autodials: SAGA racing gauges, Gauge pods and A-pillars, Oil temperature gauges
Typically, he's not got any listed at the moment
Try messaging the guy to see if he still does 'em, etc...
Typically, he's not got any listed at the moment
Try messaging the guy to see if he still does 'em, etc...
Last edited by joz8968; 14 December 2008 at 07:00 PM.
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