can anyone tell me how to bleed the coolant system on a 93 wrx ra?

any pics of the bleeding screws if there is any would be great thanks

 

surely some one must know?

 

Try and look on sidc.co.uk think there might be some guides on there.

 

Dont know if your 93 will be same as my 2000my but,there is 2 pipes that run from the header tank to the rad take off the bigger one at the rad end left hand one,and get some grips on the other pipe to clamp it shut,start the car and keep topping up the fluid level until you get a nice flow of water coming out the rad where you removed the pipe and no splutters.

 

there are no bleed screws on an early impreza coolant system

 

hmmmm now i'm confused, i have a header tank that sits on the left side of the engine bay but i also have a coolant filler funnel on the right side of the engine behind the headlight.

 

plenty of info here

Cooling System FAQ: Read if you want coolant information! - NASIOC

 

remove the coolant hose going from the header tank to the turbo from the header tank end, start filling the cooling system via the header tank until coolant flows out of the pipe you have removed, connect the back pipe back up - System should be air free

 

cheers mate

 

Wait for the engine to cool down & then remove the header tank cap (the tank is bolted to the inlet manifold on the air filter side of the engine) top up the header tank, turn the heater fan on to no:1 & the controls to hot, start the engine & twist the throttle linkage under the bonnet to run the engine at about 2000 rpm (you may want to use a cloth, as it can get a bit hot in that area)..

You now need to keep the header tank topped up so it doesn't run dry (don't fill it to the brim, about half way will do) & the rpm at 2000 whilst you wait for the engine to warm up and for the thermostat to open (steam will start comming out of the header tank when the thermostat opens & you will see coolant starts to circulate through it) At the point the stat has opened you will find that the water in the tank starts to rise and may overflow (this will be excentuated if you let the revs drop).

Run the engine for about another 30 secs, then raise the rpm to aprox 3000 and you should find that the water level drops slightly, at this point, top up the header tank to the brim & put the cap back on. Let go of the throttle linkage & allow the engine to idle.

You now need to go the the expansion bottle (which is located in front of the battery and has a yellow lid) and top this up to the point midway between low and high.

Job Done!

 

that sounds far too complicated for one pair of hands

 

One hand for the throttle & one for the water container... Not that complicated really...

There are many people on here who have had problems with bleeding the system I agree that the method of removing the pipe from the header tank is a bit easier, but this method still runs the risk of leaving air in the system as the thermostat leading to the radiator is shut & the water pump needs to be running to purge the system of trapped air... So if you have problems then the above procedure is 100% effective in fully bleeding the whole cooling system.