Slight jerking and loss of power when cold????
30 May 2008, 09:18 AM
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Slight jerking and loss of power when cold????
Could anyone help?
I am having a slight loss of power when pulling away when it's cold. Just driving along normally, going up through the gears and the car jerks ever so slightly. Has anyone else had this problem?
I am having a slight loss of power when pulling away when it's cold. Just driving along normally, going up through the gears and the car jerks ever so slightly. Has anyone else had this problem?
30 May 2008, 09:35 AM
#2
hi ive been having same sort of problem only seems to be when its been raining though fine when its warmed up think theres a few people having issues so wouldnt worry about it
30 May 2008, 09:38 AM
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Yeah seems to be fine when it's warm, it's just really annoying, seems like something needs cleaning but i'm not sure what! Mines not always when it's been raining though???
30 May 2008, 12:06 PM
#6
If your problem is ONLY when it is cold then I would suspect that your coolant temp sensor is faulty.
It is a 3 wire sensor, located just under the inlet manifold, behind the alternator, screwed into the ally water transfer pipe.
Part no: 22630AA161 Dealer Retail £38.41
When these start to fail, they give an incorrect signal to the ecu, which causes the engine to run weak during the warm up cycle.
Phil
It is a 3 wire sensor, located just under the inlet manifold, behind the alternator, screwed into the ally water transfer pipe.
Part no: 22630AA161 Dealer Retail £38.41
When these start to fail, they give an incorrect signal to the ecu, which causes the engine to run weak during the warm up cycle.
Phil
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30 May 2008, 01:20 PM
#10
If your problem is ONLY when it is cold then I would suspect that your coolant temp sensor is faulty.
It is a 3 wire sensor, located just under the inlet manifold, behind the alternator, screwed into the ally water transfer pipe.
Part no: 22630AA161 Dealer Retail £38.41
When these start to fail, they give an incorrect signal to the ecu, which causes the engine to run weak during the warm up cycle.
Phil
It is a 3 wire sensor, located just under the inlet manifold, behind the alternator, screwed into the ally water transfer pipe.
Part no: 22630AA161 Dealer Retail £38.41
When these start to fail, they give an incorrect signal to the ecu, which causes the engine to run weak during the warm up cycle.
Phil
30 May 2008, 02:09 PM
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30 May 2008, 02:10 PM
#12
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Yeah it's like a pulse forward and backward type motion, ever so slight, when i put my foot down harder it either gets worse or the power sort of pushes through the movement, hard to explain.
30 May 2008, 02:11 PM
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30 May 2008, 02:57 PM
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30 May 2008, 03:33 PM
#16
On vehicles up to 99my the engine has 2x temp sensors. 1 for the Ecu (2 wire) & 1 for the temp gauge (1 wire) so, no the gauge would not be affected.
On later vehicles there is only 1 sensor (3 wire), this has 2 wires linked to the Ecu for fueling purposes & the 3rd wire goes directly to the gauge. If the sensor was completely broken then yes both the Ecu & the gauge would be affected, but if the sensor is having small irregularities when it is in a cold/part warm condition then the gauge would appear to work normally as it moves up towards the normal temp position. Where as the signal to the Ecu is very small, and it has to be dead accurate. Otherwise the Ecu will not fuel the engine correctly during the cold start / warm up period.
nev69 - If you only have a problem when its wet, then you are unlikely to have a temp sensor fault. Your problem sounds more like the Ign system suffering from water ingress which then causes a partial misfire which is most unusual on a scooby.
If any of you are suffering from surging when the engine is in a hot condition, the most likely cause of this is either the Lambda Sensor not working correctly or you have an Airflow Meter which is not reading correctly. This condition will, unfortunately not put the check engine lamp on as it is still producing some sort of signal. (it’s just not the right one)
Phil
30 May 2008, 03:45 PM
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nev69 - If you only have a problem when its wet, then you are unlikely to have a temp sensor fault. Your problem sounds more like the Ign system suffering from water ingress which then causes a partial misfire which is most unusual on a scooby.
Cheers Phil,
Any idea on what i can do to sort it ?
Cheers Phil,
Any idea on what i can do to sort it ?
30 May 2008, 04:19 PM
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It all depends on the model year & how knackered your sensor is.
On vehicles up to 99my the engine has 2x temp sensors. 1 for the Ecu (2 wire) & 1 for the temp gauge (1 wire) so, no the gauge would not be affected.
On later vehicles there is only 1 sensor (3 wire), this has 2 wires linked to the Ecu for fueling purposes & the 3rd wire goes directly to the gauge. If the sensor was completely broken then yes both the Ecu & the gauge would be affected, but if the sensor is having small irregularities when it is in a cold/part warm condition then the gauge would appear to work normally as it moves up towards the normal temp position. Where as the signal to the Ecu is very small, and it has to be dead accurate. Otherwise the Ecu will not fuel the engine correctly during the cold start / warm up period.
nev69 - If you only have a problem when its wet, then you are unlikely to have a temp sensor fault. Your problem sounds more like the Ign system suffering from water ingress which then causes a partial misfire which is most unusual on a scooby.
If any of you are suffering from surging when the engine is in a hot condition, the most likely cause of this is either the Lambda Sensor not working correctly or you have an Airflow Meter which is not reading correctly. This condition will, unfortunately not put the check engine lamp on as it is still producing some sort of signal. (it’s just not the right one)
Phil
On vehicles up to 99my the engine has 2x temp sensors. 1 for the Ecu (2 wire) & 1 for the temp gauge (1 wire) so, no the gauge would not be affected.
On later vehicles there is only 1 sensor (3 wire), this has 2 wires linked to the Ecu for fueling purposes & the 3rd wire goes directly to the gauge. If the sensor was completely broken then yes both the Ecu & the gauge would be affected, but if the sensor is having small irregularities when it is in a cold/part warm condition then the gauge would appear to work normally as it moves up towards the normal temp position. Where as the signal to the Ecu is very small, and it has to be dead accurate. Otherwise the Ecu will not fuel the engine correctly during the cold start / warm up period.
nev69 - If you only have a problem when its wet, then you are unlikely to have a temp sensor fault. Your problem sounds more like the Ign system suffering from water ingress which then causes a partial misfire which is most unusual on a scooby.
If any of you are suffering from surging when the engine is in a hot condition, the most likely cause of this is either the Lambda Sensor not working correctly or you have an Airflow Meter which is not reading correctly. This condition will, unfortunately not put the check engine lamp on as it is still producing some sort of signal. (it’s just not the right one)
Phil
I've ordered a new sensor so hopefully the problem will be sorted soon, will keep you informed!
Thanks for your helpful advice Phil!
30 May 2008, 06:00 PM
#19
I have exactly this on a 2000 model turbo myself. Very slight pulsing when keeping the car at steady revs, keep it at 2.5k rpm and it just pulses slightly of it's own accord. Also don't think it does it when it's warmed up at all.
Let me know how you get on.
Oh and hello Phil, haven't seen you on here for a while (been down to you a few times a few years ago) Are you still down there?
30 May 2008, 07:27 PM
#20
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yeah i had this pulsing on the way home tonight??
30 May 2008, 08:03 PM
#21
I had the same problem on my MY99, its a strange feeling almost a flutter. Within 2 min's of setting off it goes completely. I spoke to Bob Rawle about this as he did my remap and he said "This relates to the ECU starting the closed loop process for control of the fueling when the car is cold and due to the temperature the car feels awkward and a little hesitant". This is one of those things that comes and goes so we just got to live with it. He also recommend I change the plugs to 7's as I'm running 280bhp and gap them to 0.65. I will be doing this next week. Interestingly the 'fluttering' disappeared last week and as of yet hasn't returned!
02 June 2008, 10:08 AM
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It all depends on the model year & how knackered your sensor is.
On vehicles up to 99my the engine has 2x temp sensors. 1 for the Ecu (2 wire) & 1 for the temp gauge (1 wire) so, no the gauge would not be affected.
On later vehicles there is only 1 sensor (3 wire), this has 2 wires linked to the Ecu for fueling purposes & the 3rd wire goes directly to the gauge. If the sensor was completely broken then yes both the Ecu & the gauge would be affected, but if the sensor is having small irregularities when it is in a cold/part warm condition then the gauge would appear to work normally as it moves up towards the normal temp position. Where as the signal to the Ecu is very small, and it has to be dead accurate. Otherwise the Ecu will not fuel the engine correctly during the cold start / warm up period.
nev69 - If you only have a problem when its wet, then you are unlikely to have a temp sensor fault. Your problem sounds more like the Ign system suffering from water ingress which then causes a partial misfire which is most unusual on a scooby.
If any of you are suffering from surging when the engine is in a hot condition, the most likely cause of this is either the Lambda Sensor not working correctly or you have an Airflow Meter which is not reading correctly. This condition will, unfortunately not put the check engine lamp on as it is still producing some sort of signal. (it’s just not the right one)
Phil
On vehicles up to 99my the engine has 2x temp sensors. 1 for the Ecu (2 wire) & 1 for the temp gauge (1 wire) so, no the gauge would not be affected.
On later vehicles there is only 1 sensor (3 wire), this has 2 wires linked to the Ecu for fueling purposes & the 3rd wire goes directly to the gauge. If the sensor was completely broken then yes both the Ecu & the gauge would be affected, but if the sensor is having small irregularities when it is in a cold/part warm condition then the gauge would appear to work normally as it moves up towards the normal temp position. Where as the signal to the Ecu is very small, and it has to be dead accurate. Otherwise the Ecu will not fuel the engine correctly during the cold start / warm up period.
nev69 - If you only have a problem when its wet, then you are unlikely to have a temp sensor fault. Your problem sounds more like the Ign system suffering from water ingress which then causes a partial misfire which is most unusual on a scooby.
If any of you are suffering from surging when the engine is in a hot condition, the most likely cause of this is either the Lambda Sensor not working correctly or you have an Airflow Meter which is not reading correctly. This condition will, unfortunately not put the check engine lamp on as it is still producing some sort of signal. (it’s just not the right one)
Phil
Tested it out over the weekend and it's still doing it but also sometimes does it when warm, could it still be the same sensor?
Is it worth changing the spark plugs, they were new in Jan?
Lou
02 June 2008, 02:27 PM
#23
If you are having problems when it is hot, then no, it's unlikely to be the temp sensor.
Has your car been de-catted & got an aftermarket air filter? If so this can cause a small amount of surging.
If it's std, then as I said last wk, either the Airflow meter or The Lambda Sensor can cause it (amongst other things), but finding the fault is either a case of guessing or running the car with the diagnostic machine plugged in.
Yea I remember you, it's good to see your still in Scooby's!!
I'm still at Barretts, although the Motorsport Dept has now been amalgamated into the main workshops on the same site.
Phil
02 June 2008, 04:38 PM
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Lou,
If you are having problems when it is hot, then no, it's unlikely to be the temp sensor.
Has your car been de-catted & got an aftermarket air filter? If so this can cause a small amount of surging.
If it's std, then as I said last wk, either the Airflow meter or The Lambda Sensor can cause it (amongst other things), but finding the fault is either a case of guessing or running the car with the diagnostic machine plugged in.
Phil
If you are having problems when it is hot, then no, it's unlikely to be the temp sensor.
Has your car been de-catted & got an aftermarket air filter? If so this can cause a small amount of surging.
If it's std, then as I said last wk, either the Airflow meter or The Lambda Sensor can cause it (amongst other things), but finding the fault is either a case of guessing or running the car with the diagnostic machine plugged in.
Phil
Hi Phil
Yeah going to plug it into a machine on Thursday, other people have suggested it could be the airflow meter as well, so i will see what it comes up with. You don't have an idea how much a new airflow meter costs do you?
Lou
02 June 2008, 04:59 PM
#25
Lou,
Your car has the following fitted:
Part No: 22794AA010
Dealer Retail £94.74
These meters are not particularly robust & have a habit of going wrong. If there is any doubt about the readings you get then you should renew it. A faulty airflow meter can cause big end failure!
Phil
Your car has the following fitted:
Part No: 22794AA010
Dealer Retail £94.74
These meters are not particularly robust & have a habit of going wrong. If there is any doubt about the readings you get then you should renew it. A faulty airflow meter can cause big end failure!
Phil
16 June 2008, 10:24 AM
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Anyone got anywhere with these problems? My 98 turbo has started doing this since the last service, i'm going to re-gap the plugs to check it but would be keen to know if anyone has resolved yet....
Cheers
Cheers
18 June 2008, 12:02 PM
#29
I have an MY99 and it does the same thing everytime for about 1 minute after starting, only on low load lasting for about a minute before it clears up. I *think* it is due to a slow/poor oxygen sensor (or possibly the heater in it). The engine management switches to closed loop too soon and the mixture goes rich/lean/rich/lean too slowly and drastically before the car has properly warmed up.
On mine this did also seem to trigger my knock sensor. After attempting to clean my O2 sensor it has been better and no knock sensor codes have come up yet. I have new O2 sensor in the post and will let you know the findings.
Matt
On mine this did also seem to trigger my knock sensor. After attempting to clean my O2 sensor it has been better and no knock sensor codes have come up yet. I have new O2 sensor in the post and will let you know the findings.
Matt
19 June 2008, 03:55 PM
#30
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Lou,
Your car has the following fitted:
Part No: 22794AA010
Dealer Retail £94.74
These meters are not particularly robust & have a habit of going wrong. If there is any doubt about the readings you get then you should renew it. A faulty airflow meter can cause big end failure!
Phil
Your car has the following fitted:
Part No: 22794AA010
Dealer Retail £94.74
These meters are not particularly robust & have a habit of going wrong. If there is any doubt about the readings you get then you should renew it. A faulty airflow meter can cause big end failure!
Phil
I have replaced the MAF sensor and it still is doing the same thing. Anymore ideas, not managed to plug it in to the machine yet.
Lou
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