JordanTypeR

Hi, just wondering if someone could shed a bit of light?

I'm not having much luck with my new 98 Type R. First the brake master cylinder went, the result is new disks and pads, now this

It's been a week since I last took it out. I drove it out onto my drive earlier and cleaned it. As I was taking it back in I noticed a small(ish) puddle of oil on the garage floor. I turned it off straight away and checked the oil and it was empty The last bit was on the the drive after cleaning.

I can only assume that the leak started last time I took the car out as there was no oil on the floor before.

Hpoefully it shouldn't be too serious as it's just had a full rebuild about 3000 miles ago.

Is there something that commonly goes on them? I'm not very hands on with a tool kit so it's gonna have to have a trip to Scooby Clinc.

Obviously I'd lke to drive it there if it isn't leaking too fast (it's only about 30 miles away). One of my mates said that when changing the oil there's something you have to do with disconnecting the battery and turning the starter motor to get oil to the turbo or something? Would I need to do this before I start it again? And what oil should I stick in it?

Any information would be very much appreciated please.

Jordan

Skooby53

iTrader: (1)

You could check the crank seal, it would show oil leaking down the front of the block behind the radiator. Check the filter has not come loose, if you can get under, safely, then have a good look and see if you can see anything obvious. When changing the oil I always pre-fill the filter before fitting then just start up, there has been a debate on this recently, I seems 'most' people agree with this. Top your oil up and run it and see if it is pouring out or leaking under load etc. If you doubt it at all don't risk the drive its not worth it. Good luck

JordanTypeR

Right, just checked and it seems to be leaking from the front of the block to the left hand side of where the engine number is (EJ20).

Does it still sound like the crank seal?

I'm being thick again (it's my first scooby so you'll have to excuse me), but when checking the engine oil, do you do it with the ar turned off or with it running? I'll post this question in a fresh post to I think.

Skooby53

iTrader: (1)

Check your oil with the engine off and preferably in the morning when most of the oil will be drained down. Wipe the dip stick a couple of times before you dip it, anywhere between the lower hole and top hole is normal. The notches are for a warm reading. If it is the crank seal it will be in the middle of the block and will be dripping on the exhaust and on a small pipe that runs along below. If it is then you will have blue smoke coming through the front grill when warm. Good news the crank seal is about a fiver, the bad is that the cam belt has to come off to replace it. If it is this you will need a new cam belt as well. Any oil on the belt will shorten its life and you don't want that to go!

JordanTypeR

Why does that sound like it's gonna be a big job?

What sort of a bill should I expect for it?

And if it's not long had a rebuild (whilst the previous owner had it), should this be covered under warrenty if it's a reputable company or are they likely to say it's tough luck?

Skooby53

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm maybe under warranty as long as owned by the same owner, not all warranties are transferable. Its gonna cost around £60 for the cam belt about £5 for the crank seal. I paid a local Jap specialist £110 inc to do mine. This included removing radiator (gives more room to work, but not always necessary) new anti freeze etc. So really you should be able to get it done for around £200-£250 but prices do vary. Good luck mate.

JordanTypeR

Few, thats a relief, I thought you were gonna say somewhere around £500. Thats cheered me up a bit anyway

It's not worth faffin about tryin to see if they transfer warrenties (it's too far away to want to anyway, it'd cost that much in fuel )

Well thank you very much for all your help, it's been very much apprecated