C h a z

I was told the other day that it's possible to run my MY97 Scoob at 1 bar, it currently runs a 0.75bar. The method described to up the boost was to locate the pipe off the waste gate with the restrictor in, and then reduce the size of the hole in it. Down to about 0.6mm
Has anybody tried this? Are there any bits of kit out there that do this in a better way? Your thoughts please.

Hoppy

It is very easy to increase power/torque on a turbo-charged engine. It is even easier to blow it up. The 'safe' tuning process is very complex. Unless you REALLY know what you are doing, leave it to an expert. Far cheaper in the long run...

Richard.

C h a z

Hoppy,
Just had a look at the threads on Boost. Chr15t on a bike! Building your own ECU thingmy bob for a tenner, chips, code. What are these guys on. Somebody better build John B an intercooler for his head before his brain gets too hot!! You could be right though, there seem to be alot of cost effective ways to kill your engine. 500bhp for 1sec at 10,000rpm!

AndyMan

Yes, I'd say go for it if you want to completely waste ya motor!

The APEXi boost controller would do the trick a lot more happily and with a fuel controller and uprated fuel pump as well - also the sparks will need to uprate (HKS irridium). That's the package RC Developments are doing. Although slightly more expensive, but not when you look at repair bills from the other route

SecretAgentMan

Lads lads....calm down...running 1 bar isn't going to blow up the engine...if it's done properly. This "Dawes" thingamajiggy seems to work really well keeping boost under check, I'd say get in contact with J Banks and sort it out.

As long as you keep the fuel cut it's nothing to worry about really.



/J - VF24 and link @ 1.2 bar

ScoobyJawa

I'm running 1.1 bar on a standard ECU MY99 with a Dawes fitted. Holds the boost nicely and for longer and fuelling etc is all spot on with no det/knock at all. I could up it to 1.15 or 1.2 bar and I suspect that would be fine too, but would get it checked at an RR rather than just do it.

The fuel cut on the 99+ cars is around 1.25 bar and the early cars is around 1.0 bar

Richard Curtis

As per scoobyjawa,

1 bar on a UK MY97 using Dawes with no problems at all (overshoot,detting, fuel cut etc).

Using standard ECU and downpipe but decatted centre and non-standard back box. Running on SUL.

Very cheap mod - but get a boost gauge, AFR meter to check everything is ok.

john banks

Intercooler for my head? As long as it is not a top mount - a front mount would be better

Seriously though, I only do things when I know what I am doing (or think I do) and am prepared to accept the consequences. I really do quite look after my engine. I have only ever hit fuel cut twice with my messing about, and I have never disabled it.

I don't think you are in serious danger if you take this approach, but any engine running higher boost is more likely to let go or have a shorter life.

I'm pretty conservative really and like to think things through hence my prolific posting.

I don't know about other models except MY99/00, but a Dawes is a good bet IMHO. You can also modify restrictors and use bleed valves etc.

At the end of the day, boost is boost and I am not really bothered how it is controlled as long as it is at a safe level, spools up quickly, doesn't have too many offsets and is repeatable and not TOO spiky, and you still have fuel cut. I also take the precaution of checking fuelling, timing and knock for any increases I do and would recommend you do the same unless it is just a little increase. Even then , no harm in doing a select monitor run during/after setup.

john banks

Another thing. There is a lot of crap spouted by lots of people about tuning me included. There are some tuners (it doesn't seem like any of the popular ones on here thankfully) that will sell you one thing and then another to sort out a problem you never had!

For example - if your fuelling is OK why do you need a fuel controller and an uprated fuel pump? The injectors on MY99/00 are nowhere near maxxed out for the sort of boost you would run below fuel cut on a TD04 on a PPP or normal ECU, and the ECU seems to happily give you 7-10% CO with fairly reasonable ignition advance.

I and others have shown for a minor increase in boost at least on MY99/00 that you do not need a custom mapped ECU. Now I have huge respect for things like the Link ECU and its UK mappers, as well as the Unichip, but IMHO they really come into their own with new turbos, FMICs etc. Although they are both quite good value form money even compared with most EBCs.

But a Dawes does seem a good if less subtle alternative. At the end of the day it works, and on mine and others cars seems to be OK from all the appropriate safety parameters.