exvaux

iTrader: (1)

hi im looking for a difinitive list of parts needed for an engine rebuild after a conrod/piston decided to leave the party
will be using a full new short engine with my heads of my old engine what else is needed tho gaskets etc and whats best to replace while the engines out,thanks in advance.

SSCJAY

This really depends on the condition of your old seals etc,

When I changed my bottom end (bearing in mine the old one had only done 40K) I managed to re-use everything as they all looked like new, including cam cover gaskets.

But if you are not sure and don't want the hassle if anything starts leaking:

O ring, oil pump to block
O ring, sump to block
Main front crank seal (goes in oil pump)
Cam shaft Seals
Cam cover gaskets
Inlet / Exhaust gaskets
Water pump gasket

And the obvious
Head gaskets
Oil filter x 2
New cam belt
5 Ltr running in oil
5 ltr Fully synthetic

Also have cam belt idlers and tensioner checked.

Thats all I can remember for the minute.

exvaux

iTrader: (1)

what about new oil and water pumps?Last engine decided to disintegrate so am i better with a new sump or can the old one be reused?what about the bolts to hold the heads on the block?Dont want to waste time/money and find out in 100 miles that its dead again because ive missed something

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

Fit a new oil pump ( or a modified one ) and a new Modine oil cooler because you will never get all the debris out of the cooler.
Check the water pump for signs of leakage and bearing noise.
Head bolts can be reused,just clean them and use graphite based moly grease on the threads,under the bolt head and under the washer.
Sump can be reused provided all traces of debris are removed.
If you want to push the boat out,then fit the 11mm ARP Head Stud kit for better clamping pressure of the head/head gasket.
The cylinder heads have oil restrictor jets in them(one per head) and these should be removed to clear out the oil gallerys.
Depending on mileage,you might want to overhaul the heads also - de-coke,valve seats cut and heads faced.
Spend 70% of your time cleaning/ prepping your engine parts and the other 30% building - Cleanliness is essential.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Having done this a few times and one being fairly recent here's my list.

Ignore the first bit if you're not putting in Rods and pistons.

ACL main bearings.
ACL big end bearings
block half - block off o-rings
cranshaft oil seal (Rear)

RCMS Modified all pump ( dont reuse old Pump)
Block to oil pump o-ring
New Oil Modine (oil cooler)
2x water crosspipe o-rings (orange)
Head gaskets. (1.6mm triple steal)
ARP 11 mm Head studs (tightening first 20ft.lbs then 40, 60 and finally 80)
New rocker gaskets
camshaft seals x 4
oil pump crank seal
waterpump gasket.
Exhaust gaskets
sump o ring
3 bond jointing compound.
New cambelt
New tensioner.

For running in use something like castrol GTX 10w40 (mineral) for around 1500miles
no boost and not over 4K rpm for those 1500 miles.

I always take the restictor out of the turbo to boost control solenoid whilst running is as this restricts the boost to 0.5bar max.

After running in is complete drain oil, swap filter and use nothing but 15w50.(mobile 1).

Replace restrictor and get it mapped. (Andy F up there)

As Merlin says cleanliness is next to godliness when engine building.

Clean everything two or three times I use halfords engine cleaner degreaser its aweome stuff.

Finally make sure you have a good clean work space and lots of space.

My project thread goes into quite alot of detail and others have said its been a big help to them.
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...ssic-2-0l.html

If you need a PDF manual I can put one on my server for you to download.

Its the full one and goes into very very good detail. Give me a shout if you need it mate and I'll give you the link to download it.

If you get stuck give me a shout as I have loads of pics and stuff of my builds.

Good luck

Daz