sti cam sprocket removal
#1
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sti cam sprocket removal
I can't get the cam sprockets bolts ( allen key type) on my V5 sti loosened.
I've had a 4 foot breaker bar on them, not moving!
engine is out of car
Is there anything else I can try before I get the welder out?
I've had a 4 foot breaker bar on them, not moving!
engine is out of car
Is there anything else I can try before I get the welder out?
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They are done extremly tight, is the engine moving when your trying to undo them? Took me quite a few try's first time round that was with a 3 ft bar!! Just sprayed some wd 40 all around, made sure the cam was locked off properly so there was no movement and no movement in the engine.
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Very tight.
The cam is locked under the valve cover via the hex section formed on the cam between the 1st two bearings with a large spanner.
The allen key type hex bit (10mm) I used twisted like a corkscrew!!
The cam is locked under the valve cover via the hex section formed on the cam between the 1st two bearings with a large spanner.
The allen key type hex bit (10mm) I used twisted like a corkscrew!!
#4
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Give the bolt a few cracks with a hammer and try again, if not, apply pressure and strike the end of the breaker bar where the hex is, that should free it off.
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It's not uncommon if you've tried the logical things, then you might not have much choice.
We occasionally have the same trouble. If they really are that tight you may end up having to break the bakolite sprocket. The bolt and retained metal plate in the bakolite will then most likely screw out by hand.
Just the way it goes sometimes.
We occasionally have the same trouble. If they really are that tight you may end up having to break the bakolite sprocket. The bolt and retained metal plate in the bakolite will then most likely screw out by hand.
Just the way it goes sometimes.
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Giving the bolt a few cracks with a hammer is a neat trick on stubborn bolts but I would avoid doing it on the cam bolt. As you can damage the head.
On my old engine head the larger diameter (thrust bearing) just behind the cam seal snapped off a small chunk off the head when using a hammer.
I had to apply heat to the bolt & then used an air gun/socket. The bolt came off but the cam wheel was scrap.
On my old engine head the larger diameter (thrust bearing) just behind the cam seal snapped off a small chunk off the head when using a hammer.
I had to apply heat to the bolt & then used an air gun/socket. The bolt came off but the cam wheel was scrap.
#7
I did my sti 2 ones last night. Struggled like anything with a breaker bar, ended up taking the engine over to a friends where we used a windy gun. Came off nice and easy.
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#8
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2 of the bolt heads are getting a bit shagged now with all the trying ( i have twisted 2 hex bits trying to free them)
The crank bolt in comparison was a piece of cake
I think it either break the back cover, and remove cams as a pair complete with sprockets still attached
or
release the bearing cap nearest each spocket
spot weld a hex bit the bolt head, and hope the heat doesn't do too much damage to the cam or sprocket
The crank bolt in comparison was a piece of cake
I think it either break the back cover, and remove cams as a pair complete with sprockets still attached
or
release the bearing cap nearest each spocket
spot weld a hex bit the bolt head, and hope the heat doesn't do too much damage to the cam or sprocket
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what i had to do with mine was to drill the head of the bolt off, once that was done, the sprocket came off as expected and the rest of the bolt just unscrewed by hand, which was nice!
Just get a drill bit that is as big as the bolt shaft and only go as far as the head depth, it will practically fall off then?
Just get a drill bit that is as big as the bolt shaft and only go as far as the head depth, it will practically fall off then?
#11
when you take off rocker cover the cam has a bit near front where you can put big adjustable spanner on it need two peeps get him or her to hold it and undo nut on cam sprocket thats how i got mine off good luck
cheers dan
cheers dan
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Got two off last night...the RH bank
drilled the centre of the hex bolts past the bolt flange by a few mm, first a 6mm bit, then a 10mm.
This left the hex section intact, retried undoing as before after drilling, and out they came.
The bolts are complete, but have now been weakened.
I hope I can buy replacements.
I thought this a better option than damaging the cam, sprocket with heat, or smashing the back cover
2 more to go ...........
drilled the centre of the hex bolts past the bolt flange by a few mm, first a 6mm bit, then a 10mm.
This left the hex section intact, retried undoing as before after drilling, and out they came.
The bolts are complete, but have now been weakened.
I hope I can buy replacements.
I thought this a better option than damaging the cam, sprocket with heat, or smashing the back cover
2 more to go ...........
Last edited by danc; 17 August 2007 at 11:02 AM.
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All four off now
Drilled into the bolts centre just past the flange/colar of the bolt, using a 10mm drill bit to finish leaves the hex part of the bolt intact, so it can be undone. No need to drill the entire head of the bolt off.
I found once i had drilled this far, although still tight, they all came off
Drilled into the bolts centre just past the flange/colar of the bolt, using a 10mm drill bit to finish leaves the hex part of the bolt intact, so it can be undone. No need to drill the entire head of the bolt off.
I found once i had drilled this far, although still tight, they all came off