karllap

I have a problem with my boost solenoid, basicall there seems to be an electrical problem somewhere as the voltage drops at the plug as if theres a short when I connect it but is ok disconnected (I've tried another solenoid and it did the same)

no one seems to know the route that the voltage comes from to the solenoid, whether its direct from the ECU or via relay so I was wondering if I could bypass the issue with a dawes?

its a standard 2001 bugeye (apart from a bailys DV)

If it will how easy are they to install and is there anything else I would need to install with it.

dan83590

You could bypass it with a Dawes as i have done, its does exactly what it says on the tin. However, by doing this the ECU loses its ability to alter boost, for example if the engine check light is lit.

I have since found and retified the fault so I will be removing the Dawes all together.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Sort the problem rather then bypassing it imo.

When you say no one knows who've you asked?

karllap

I've posted a coupe of posts on here but not had any feedback as yet (I know its not been long but I'm wanting to feel that scooby power asap!

I'd love to sort the problem out but if I can't find where the actual voltage comes from its going to be impossible for me to find where the problem is. I'm also a bit reluctant to take it to an auto electrician cos I've found from past experience that if they don't know they just start hacking at things to find the fault.

Everything else seems ok apart from this problem.

Also does anyone know if I can straight swap the ECU with any programming or anything I think its a V3 or something and if so is there any comaptible ECU's I can put in or does it have to be a V3? Tjis will isolate if it an ECU fault or not

The rookie

iTrader: (1)

So to be clear, you don't ACTUALLY know if you have a problem or if its normal, I've never tried to read the voltage at the connector, its modulated by the ECU to control position so (as with most sensors and actuators) it will have a 12V supply and a ground through the ECU, that ground could cause the voltage to drop and be normal, but I'm not sure.

Have you got a boost guage so you can see what boost your running?

Simon

karllap

The boost solenoid is definately not working, there is no clicking from it at all even in diag mode. I've measured the voltage going to the molex plug and thats fine but when I plug it into the solenoid the voltage drops straight away.
If I apply voltage straight to the solenoid via a wire from the battery it actuates ok. Also I've put a different boost solenoid on and its still the same.

I'm far from an expert but from that I was thinking that there must be a problem with whatever is feeding the power to the solenoid

The rookie

iTrader: (1)

Mine doesn't click (audibly), but is working fine, the acid test is the boost level your getting surely.

Its possible there is an internal failure in the BCS so that the voltage is being earthed without going through the solenoid windings, in which case see if you can borrow one as a quick check.

Simon

karllap

When I put the volatge straight to the solenoid it activates and I can both here it and feel it.
I thought that it would have been the BCS that was causing the voltage to drop but as I say I have tried a different one and it is the same.

Thanks for the help though.

This is really doing my head. I want ity to work!!!

silent running

Simon's last post seems the most likely explanation - an internal electrical fault in the solenoid. Hmmm, perhaps though, is the plug on the boost solenoid end shorting internally when you connect it to the wiring loom side, so the voltage is bypassing the solenoid entirely and giving you your short circuit? That would give your working solenoid and working loom when separate, but mess things up when their put together. Sounds obvious but you never know...

The only sure way is to try a new one, OR to cut both sides of the plug off and solder everything back together again, see if it works. If it does, it was the plug at fault, if it doesn't alter anything, it's the solenoid.

The wiring diagram looks like you've got a ground twinned up somewhere in the loom with the MAF sensor's ground, then the +V comes straight from the ECU on its own dedicated wire, no breaks or teeing off anywhere.

karllap

I went down the route of checking the plug by putting a wire into each terminal then attaching the wire wrapping the end round my muti-meter thus seeing the voltage, when I then put the points onto the solenoid thats when the voltage dropped.

I must stress that the solenoid thats on is the second solenoid and is doing exactly the same as the first so unless the ecu or something is breaking the solenoids I'm pretty sure thats not the problem.

Again thanks for your input though cos its got me baffled hence the reason I'm thinking of trying to bypass it altogether!

swisstonihasher

Get an AVC-r and get her mapped...you'll not regret it.

I did the whole route of tek3, then added dawes, then 3port with mapping and now AVC-r - I wouldn't go back, having adujstable in car boost controller is mint.

codfather

iTrader: (1)

just to throw my weight into the discussion, it could also be an earth fault...

karllap

Just a quick update, I got a powertek boost controller with a smoked backlit boost gauge on Thursday, it arrived on Friday and I fitted on Saturday and everything is a ok.

Thanks for all the help in the meantime.

just to note the controller and gauge was £45 delivered, both seem really good quality (I've not got anything to compare with to be fair) and the service was second to none.