Knocklink fitting in a UK MY98
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MSOC
Posts: 7,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Knocklink fitting in a UK MY98
I have fitted one of these before in my old MY95 WRX and from what I can gather the fitting point for the sensor is the same on an MY98. Is this true?
If so then I appear to already have a sensor there that looks to be OEM?? Can I fit the new sensor anywhere else on the engine block to get accurate readings?
If so then I appear to already have a sensor there that looks to be OEM?? Can I fit the new sensor anywhere else on the engine block to get accurate readings?
#5
no no no... you need it on the block as its measuring possibly detonation.. How can a sensor on the inlet manifold detect knock.... thinbk about it...
I placed mind near the OE sensor ON THE BLOCK!!!
I placed mind near the OE sensor ON THE BLOCK!!!
#7
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Posts: 16,548
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Agree it is better on the block but any Det noise will vibrate through the inlet manifold. it will just be very slightly less sensitive.
Martin,
does the sensor you have found have anything plugged into it?
It is possibly the original knock sensor and it has been placed in the wrong place after the engine has been worked on / replaced. It shoudl be slightly further forward under the inlet manifold as standard.
Simon
Martin,
does the sensor you have found have anything plugged into it?
It is possibly the original knock sensor and it has been placed in the wrong place after the engine has been worked on / replaced. It shoudl be slightly further forward under the inlet manifold as standard.
Simon
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MSOC
Posts: 7,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for your help guys I have now got it fitted, though I am minus some skin, and it is working perfectly. I think what I was looking at was the oem knocksensor in the right place and just couldn't see the bolt I needed to remove without a bit more of a look.
Best thing is that I have no knocking registering. Happy days
Thanks again guys, your help is much appreciated.
Best thing is that I have no knocking registering. Happy days
Thanks again guys, your help is much appreciated.
#9
Just for info. I put a few good threads in here.
<Clicky Clicky>
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ck-sensor.html
<Clicky Clicky>
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ck-sensor.html
#11
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: MSOC
Posts: 7,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As the post says mate the best sensor is the bosch one as it is specificly for the knocklink. As far as I'm aware you can't connect a knocklink to the OEM sensor. Hope this helps.
#12
I have reached the conclusion it's engine noise as opposed to knock?
Any ideas?
#13
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Posts: 16,548
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
you can use an 2wire knock sensor, including the Oe but you need it to be a separate one to the Oe connected to the ecu, otherwise you interfer with the signal the ecu sees..
#14
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Posts: 16,548
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Sorry to hijack thread but my knocklink is lighting up at 7k revs engine redlines at 8k this is regardless of what boost im running if i wind the boost right up the Knocklink flicks on the 2 green lights but it's only when you get to 7k it has **** fit!
I have reached the conclusion it's engine noise as opposed to knock?
Any ideas?
I have reached the conclusion it's engine noise as opposed to knock?
Any ideas?
you need to get it checked with detcans ideally.
Simon
#15
Thanks for the response mate, it lightly flicks on the 1st 2nd green light right to 7k then lights up like a Xmas tree It's a closed deck 2.2L engine with forged internals red line is set at 8k but it does sound quite harsh when revved hard, im not sure if there is an intake leak on the Turbo hose as it comes off quite often and im forever tighting it up, sounds like it could be turbulence from the turbo, I also have a very very loose heatshield on the up pipe that rattles like a B******d engine sounds as smooth as anything when not under load/on heavy boost, revs fine to 4.5k then seems to struggle to get to redline, very smooth up to 4-5k then not as smooth to redline!
It's starting to get me worried as I dont know what the hell it is, engine has done 15k since rebuild lot's of track work but never misses a beat!
#17
It's a Scoobyecu custom mapped for this setup. Fitted a new samco hose to the turbo inlet andi think it's cured it, havent had time to cane it yet, idling like a pig when i put it back together though!
Speedo cable has come unplugged again hoping when it connected again it will sort it's self out!
he joy's of Scooby ownership eh!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
33
29 August 2017 07:18 PM
JonMc
Subaru Parts
22
06 February 2016 09:50 PM
blockhead
Subaru Parts
19
07 November 2015 11:50 PM
matt12
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
4
14 September 2015 09:36 AM