following on from this thread I have decided to fix my car. The guys in my local garage are going to do it as a homer for me to keep the cost down.

I wanted to know which bits I would need and if anyone knows where I could get them cheapest? I am going to get the valve stem oil seals done at the same time and also the front crank oil seal as I think this is leaking. The mechanics have suggested I need the followin:

8 inlet valve stem oil seals
8 exhaust valve stem oil seals
2 rocker cover gaskets
2 cylinder head gaskets
1 timing belt
1 thermostat
1 thermostat gasket
1 water pump
1 front crank oil seal

From advice I received on my last thread I don't need the head skimmed or pressure tested, is this correct? The probem is very slight so I am pretty sure it will be ok and won't need pressure tested. I thought all heads need skimmed?

At the same time I am going to fit an Exedy clutch and flywheel. I've seen a clutch on eBay for £160, brand new. Does that sound right? The group buy that's going on at the moment is doing them for £240 or something. There is no price for the flywheel, I've emailed them to find out a price.

911 also mentioned about replacing the head studs for ARP. How would this improve the car? Where could I get these? He also said about using the correct gasket. What options is there there? I thought they were all the same?

If the car was needing the head skimmed etc then I concidered getting some other work done to the engine. Is there anything I could get done? What about getting more skimmed off, would this lower the compression of the engine thus making it quicker?

I am looking for some quick help as hope to order the bits tomorrow.

Car is a 93 wrx running 330/305

thanks

 

I also meant to ask I assume I wouldn't need the car remapped after getting this done? Even with the lightened flywheel?

I would only need the car remapped if I did any engine work like skimming a lot off the heads?

Car is running an apexi power fc

 

Im sure the guys doing the job will put a straight edge across the heads when they are off,to see if it needs skimming or facing up.
The head gaskets should be the Composite type on a '93 WRX and available from most places - API,Lateral Performance etc etc.
IMHO -
If your planning on pushing it a lot more than your present 330/305,then go for the ARP head studs,but bear in mind that if your running a "stock bottom end" ie standard rods,cast pistons etc - you will be getting near the limit of reliability as you approach the 380 mark.

 

If just the head gasket gone:

2 x Head gaskets
Rocker cover seals
New timing belt (good to do)
Inlet manifold gaskets x 2
Exhaust gaskets x 2

The ARP head studs only if you intend to tune the engine, otherwise keep the bolts you have.

You can buy them all at API.

Leave the clutch alone, get one off David at API, his are the Real Deal.

No need to map after that lot.

 

I'd suggest API Engines for the parts - and advice (David posts on here as APIDavid).

I had ARP head studs when mine was rebuilt, not cheap tho. I was advised as a minimum to replace the original studs rather than reusing them, but I went for the stronger non-stretch ARP's, although for my WRX this was probably overkill as I doubt I'll be running high boost levels.

Your parts list sound right from what was replaced on mine. I think all the additional gaskets excluding the head was bought as a full set. In addition I had up/down-pipe gaskets too.

I had cometic tripple layered gasket fitted - as described here (make sure you get the right one ! - David at API will help here if noone else posts)
Cometic .040" Head Gasket Subaru STi EJ25 Flat4online.co.uk Subaru Impreza Mitsubishi Evolution EVO Walbro Fuel Pumps Injectors Intercoolers

Can't comment on skimming but mine were pressure tested. If you are going to skim then mention it when talking about the head gaskets on the off-chance it may make a difference on the tolerances.

I hope the rebuild goes well

 

This will be my third timing belt in 2 years! I got one fitted to the car when I first bought it. I think it was the tensioner than needed replaced so a new belt was done then. I've got a leak at the front crank seal so will prob replace the belt then as it will be coming off to get in to the crank seal.

The car also uses a little bit of oil. I am not sure if this is down to the crank seal or not. While the car is open I thought it would be better to change the valve stem oil seals? I had the engine compression tested last week while new plugs went in. It was 120 all round. I believe this is low but the car was stone cold. It had sat in the garage for 2 days. If the car was warm it would bring it up to 150+

Where possible I'd prefer to replace the bits for better quality parts. I don't know if I could squeeze more power out of the car as 330 is quite high for the car. It is highly modified but if I could bring more power out of it withou spending silly money then I would like to do it.

As such I would prefer to fit the higher spec bolts etc.

What other uprated bits are available? I've seen steel head gaskets they're available in 1mm and 1.6mm. Which would I need and are these recommended?

I do run high boost on the car (1.4bar) and if I was able to increase this after fitting higher strength bolts it would be good. The car seems quite slow.

List of engine mods are:
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Nismo 550cc Injectors
Custom Exhaust From Turbo Back Titanium Back Box
XS Power Stainles Headers & Up Pipe
Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler
Blitz Induction Kit
TD05 18g With Samco 90 degree hose
Apexi Power FC
Apexi AVCR
Datalogit Kit
4 New Coil packs
4 New NGK PFR7B Plugs
SX Fuel Regulator
Helix Catch Can
New Radiator

 

I'd also replace the rear crank seal while the block is out-it possably could go soon considering that the front one is shot.

 

Personally i see nothing untoward in any of the above. My engine was 26K miles old when the head gasket went (other one was close too).

My current spec is very similar but now with a FMIC and 1.6 bar = 380 x 370

It is all money but to fit parts to maintain reliability is as good as spending to get more power!

I would go with the studs (approx £350) aircraft quality.

In my case I ran out of time and took the naked engine to API to strip/check/clean/studs/gaskets/screw together and for me to collect.

Stripped in front of me there and then, took 15 mins!
David sourced everything.
That was 2 1/2 years ago and the car has been raced to the rev limiter and 1.6 bar without any issues whatsoever.
You save a stack getting the engine out/stripped and taken there.

They do about 3 to 5 engines a week at API.

Graham

 

Get the arp head studs which are only about £170 and also the steel laminate gaskets (1.6mm for the early cars) at about £100. Cometic are no better than the subaru oe ones.

Also the exedy organic in the group buy is the exact same one as api offer so no worries there graham.

Talk to Mark @ lateral performance for the studs, gaskets and any other stuff you need. He always gives a good deal and he will even make sure that your head/block combo has the right thickness of gaskets.

Been there and done that so i hope that helps you.
Stuart

Oh btw the clutches on ebay i think are not the organic ones (just standard exedy) so i would be wary of them!

 

couty:

you are right, the studs/gaskets came to £350, it was a long time ago for me!
Graham.

 

the clutch I was looking at was this one eBay.co.uk: Subaru Impreza STi WRX Upgrade Exedy Clutch Kit 230mm (item 230094910491 end time 02-Mar-07 11:20:31 GMT) is that organic or not? What's the difference between a standard and organic?

the gaskets I was going to get from here Genuine 1.6 mm STi Steel Head Gasket x 2

what would be the difference between the 1mm and 1.6mm?

prices I've been quoted for the other bits from importcarparts is:

Water pump £49
Thermostat with seal £13
Vale stem oil seals 16 £10
Rocker Cover Gaskets £10 each
Head Gaskets £30 pair
Timing Belt £35
Front Crank Oil Seal £6


they've also quoted £150 for a used flywheel which has been skimmed. The flywheel has done 20 miles. Does this sound good?