MY00 Clutch life expectancy
#1
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MY00 Clutch life expectancy
Hi
I know a lot of this depends on how you drive
but what is or seems to be the average life expectancy of a MY00 clutch
I used to say mine was always on its way out, and that was 40,000 miles ago
Car has done 90k now and its still going, although if I boot it in 1st it can slip on the odd occasion
running about 280 bhp and about 260lb/ft torque
how long did everyone elses last?
I know a lot of this depends on how you drive
but what is or seems to be the average life expectancy of a MY00 clutch
I used to say mine was always on its way out, and that was 40,000 miles ago
Car has done 90k now and its still going, although if I boot it in 1st it can slip on the odd occasion
running about 280 bhp and about 260lb/ft torque
how long did everyone elses last?
#3
I have a MY01 WRX and had to have my clutch changed at 65k, but i have been told they will last between 60-100K depending on how you drive the car. But if it is slipping i would get it changed as the heat build up on the flywheel when it slips won't do the engine any good!
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I have a MY01 WRX and had to have my clutch changed at 65k, but i have been told they will last between 60-100K depending on how you drive the car. But if it is slipping i would get it changed as the heat build up on the flywheel when it slips won't do the engine any good!
Agreed, once they start to slip it's probably best to replace asap. I ran my 97MY up to 110k with the original clutch and std boost. Noticed it slipping in 1st but stuck my head in the sand for a couple of months and 'drove around' the issue, at which point it was slipping in 5th gear!
Ended up crawling to the garage at 5000rpm and about 30mph - probably not the best entrance when your trying to haggle for a good deal!
Anyway, got a P1 clutch and swore I'd never ignore what the car's telling me ever again.
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Steve,
They can last anywhere between 15K and 90K+, purely depends on driving style. 90K is exceptional though it has to be said. I was chuffed my own got to 60K. It was not slipping when i took it out but the plate and flywheel were both shafted.
As a guide, it will always start to slip first at the point of highest load i.e at peak torque (maybe 4000 RPM) and in the higher gears (3rd/4th/5th)
At that kind of mileage, i would be very suprised if the flywheel will not need replacing as well. I have a spare standard skimmed (i.e as good as new) flywheel 'in stock' if you ever need one. FOC to you of course.
They can last anywhere between 15K and 90K+, purely depends on driving style. 90K is exceptional though it has to be said. I was chuffed my own got to 60K. It was not slipping when i took it out but the plate and flywheel were both shafted.
As a guide, it will always start to slip first at the point of highest load i.e at peak torque (maybe 4000 RPM) and in the higher gears (3rd/4th/5th)
At that kind of mileage, i would be very suprised if the flywheel will not need replacing as well. I have a spare standard skimmed (i.e as good as new) flywheel 'in stock' if you ever need one. FOC to you of course.
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It really is down to driver.
If one sits at junctions/in traffic holding the car stationary by riding clutch, then it will last significantly shorter than a driver that uses the handbrake.
That is the prime evil that causes clutches to wear out in any car.
Also to a lesser extect how the driver feeds in the clutch, too much slipping, or too little slipping when pulling away also has an effect on lifespan. I notice alot of driver seem unable to correctly pull away from standstill during normal driving, either sky high revs and no bite, or a sudden lurch into motion with tyres scrabbling for grip (on a FWD car ).
Then there is where the car is used for most of its life, in a busy city with lots of stop start driving, it'll wear out much sooner than in the open country, and a car used entirely on the motorway with a good driver will probably never wear out.
On a limb I would say anything less than 60K on combined city and country driving on a moderately standard car, you need to check out and refine your driving style (unless the crank seal started leaking ).
If one sits at junctions/in traffic holding the car stationary by riding clutch, then it will last significantly shorter than a driver that uses the handbrake.
That is the prime evil that causes clutches to wear out in any car.
Also to a lesser extect how the driver feeds in the clutch, too much slipping, or too little slipping when pulling away also has an effect on lifespan. I notice alot of driver seem unable to correctly pull away from standstill during normal driving, either sky high revs and no bite, or a sudden lurch into motion with tyres scrabbling for grip (on a FWD car ).
Then there is where the car is used for most of its life, in a busy city with lots of stop start driving, it'll wear out much sooner than in the open country, and a car used entirely on the motorway with a good driver will probably never wear out.
On a limb I would say anything less than 60K on combined city and country driving on a moderately standard car, you need to check out and refine your driving style (unless the crank seal started leaking ).
Last edited by Shark Man; 10 January 2007 at 02:37 PM.
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#9
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Doing that is not re-creating the load a clutch gets under normal driving.
The clutch is fit for use if it does not slip at all under driving
If it slips at all it needs replacing as it will not last much longer
#10
Well maybe i should contact the 2 subaru specialists i spoke to about testing my clutch. I did what they said, feeding it in in 3rd gear with handgbrake up, and my car did not stall. Took the clutch out and it was shagged, but maybe it was just luck eh??? lol
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By doing that you are trying to induce slip at a load that is far higher than you will get on the road. Its not representative.
The clutch could fail your 'scientific test' yet still be good for tens of thousands of miles on the road. Hence i disagree with anyone who says that this method is the correct way to check a clutch.
No need to be rude now is there?
The clutch could fail your 'scientific test' yet still be good for tens of thousands of miles on the road. Hence i disagree with anyone who says that this method is the correct way to check a clutch.
No need to be rude now is there?
#12
You will note the LOL at the end of that thread, i wasn't being rude, just a bit of light hearted banter, just seemed coincidental i tried what they said and my clutch was shagged, yet if i do it now my car stalls on the new clutch.
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Steve,
They can last anywhere between 15K and 90K+, purely depends on driving style. 90K is exceptional though it has to be said. I was chuffed my own got to 60K. It was not slipping when i took it out but the plate and flywheel were both shafted.
As a guide, it will always start to slip first at the point of highest load i.e at peak torque (maybe 4000 RPM) and in the higher gears (3rd/4th/5th)
At that kind of mileage, i would be very suprised if the flywheel will not need replacing as well. I have a spare standard skimmed (i.e as good as new) flywheel 'in stock' if you ever need one. FOC to you of course.
They can last anywhere between 15K and 90K+, purely depends on driving style. 90K is exceptional though it has to be said. I was chuffed my own got to 60K. It was not slipping when i took it out but the plate and flywheel were both shafted.
As a guide, it will always start to slip first at the point of highest load i.e at peak torque (maybe 4000 RPM) and in the higher gears (3rd/4th/5th)
At that kind of mileage, i would be very suprised if the flywheel will not need replacing as well. I have a spare standard skimmed (i.e as good as new) flywheel 'in stock' if you ever need one. FOC to you of course.
Sorry mate, correct me if i'm wrong, but max torque transfer occurs in 1st gear, so if the clutch friction material is on the way out you'll exceed it's max torque capacity in the lower gears first...
#15
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Thanks for the feedback
I had a sport many years ago, brand new MY99 (March/April time I think)
1st clutch lasted 20k miles, 2nd clutch last 60k miles, however before the scoob I had an automatic for 7 years, plus a lot of my driving was through birmingham and back so lots and lots of stop start stationary traffic every day
that car got the **** ragged off it, and in the 120k miles I put on it in 2.5 years, i only had to have the clutch replaced and two sets of tyres
My own scoob being much more powerful than the sport I had, isnt driven any near as hard as is capable
Most of the time I pootle about in it, with only the occasional booting, and the odd track day
After some of the blackpool runs we have done, very smelly clutch used to happen, and occasional smelling if doing a major boost from standstill (no drag runs tho)
It has only slipped once or twice, and I did try to induce it after thinking I only felt it was slipping, to see if it actually was
It probably is due a replacement, along with Cambelt, Tyres, full service etc etc
I was originally told the best way to check the clutch was to find an heavily inclined road, put the car in a high gear and nail it, and the car should accelerate in line with the revs, and the revs shouldnt exceed the acceleration, if it does the clutch is slipping
I had a sport many years ago, brand new MY99 (March/April time I think)
1st clutch lasted 20k miles, 2nd clutch last 60k miles, however before the scoob I had an automatic for 7 years, plus a lot of my driving was through birmingham and back so lots and lots of stop start stationary traffic every day
that car got the **** ragged off it, and in the 120k miles I put on it in 2.5 years, i only had to have the clutch replaced and two sets of tyres
My own scoob being much more powerful than the sport I had, isnt driven any near as hard as is capable
Most of the time I pootle about in it, with only the occasional booting, and the odd track day
After some of the blackpool runs we have done, very smelly clutch used to happen, and occasional smelling if doing a major boost from standstill (no drag runs tho)
It has only slipped once or twice, and I did try to induce it after thinking I only felt it was slipping, to see if it actually was
It probably is due a replacement, along with Cambelt, Tyres, full service etc etc
I was originally told the best way to check the clutch was to find an heavily inclined road, put the car in a high gear and nail it, and the car should accelerate in line with the revs, and the revs shouldnt exceed the acceleration, if it does the clutch is slipping
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